Experiencing Hawaii During the COVID-19 Pandemic: My Journey

I flew to Hawaii two days after the quarantine lifted, and I’m here to share everything I learned.

If the pandemic has left you desperate for a change of scenery, you’re not alone. There are only so many virtual tours of far-flung places you can watch before all you can think about is how and when you can go there in person. However, travel is no longer as simple as adding a destination to your bucket list and waiting until you find an affordable plane ticket. With COVID-19, there are health risks and ethical factors to consider, such as putting others at risk—both at your destination and once you return home.

While weighing the risks and rewards of traveling during a pandemic, I was drawn to Hawaii’s new pre-flight testing program. In September, Hawaii announced that it was lifting its 14-day quarantine requirements for travelers who test negative for the coronavirus within 72 hours of departure. The initiative went into effect on Oct. 15.

“Residents are cautiously optimistic that the state’s pre-travel testing program will effectively welcome visitors to the islands without a 14-day quarantine while also protecting the health and well-being of kama`aina,” Monica Salter, vice president of corporate communications for Outrigger Hospitality Group, told iBestTravel by email.

As part of the state’s first wave of tourists (I flew two days after the quarantine lifted), I was able to experience the new requirements and the current state of Hawaii first-hand. Therefore, I’m here to share everything I learned, allowing you to spend less time Googling “what do I need to do before I fly to Hawaii” and more time learning how to say “good morning” in Hawaiian or shopping for a new bikini.

Is Hawaii Safe to Visit Right Now?

As long as the virus is present, staying at home is your safest option. However, unlike drivable U.S. destinations, which saw a surge in summer visitors, Hawaii’s beaches have remained quiet and its hotels empty. Consequently, the result is well under 15,000 confirmed COVID-19 cases at the time of writing.

To maintain this number even as tourism returns, the Hawaii State Department of Health has issued state-specific guidelines. Indoor activities and restaurant seating operate at 50 percent capacity, with groups restricted to five people within the same family or “quarantine pod.” Masking up and adhering to the six-foot rule is standard, both indoors and outdoors, and many locations require visitors to fill out a contact tracing form.

Furthermore, visitors must either show proof of a negative test or quarantine for 14 days, while the state’s Safe Travels program screens and monitors travelers.

Do Locals Support the Reopening?

As you might expect, the return of tourism is both daunting and necessary for Hawaii. On one hand, the lack of visitors has assisted in maintaining a relatively low number of COVID-19 cases. Conversely, initial unemployment claims are up 680 percent over last year.

“In every community, there is a polarity between those who are pro-business and those on the opposite end of the spectrum. Both sides care about the quality of life in our communities; however, this polarity produces a debate, if not a controversy, about whether we are moving too fast or too slow,” stated President of the Hawaii Tourism Authority John De Fries in a phone interview. He mentioned that pre-pandemic, Hawaii welcomed approximately 29,000 people a day, and since Oct. 15, that number has been around 6,000 to 7,000.

In short, travelers taking advantage of the new pre-travel testing program should focus on masking up, maintaining a safe distance, and being respectful to help keep Hawaii open while supporting both the island and local communities.

What Do You Need to Do Before Traveling to Hawaii?

After confirming your flight, it’s essential to register for the Safe Travels online program. This program will serve as your portal for COVID-related information. Next, review the state’s trusted testing and travel partners and develop a plan for where and when you’ll be tested—keeping in mind that you must test within 72 hours of your departure flight.

It’s important to note that Hawaii only accepts an FDA-authorized nucleic acid amplification test (NAAT), which must be administered by one of its testing partners. The list includes location-specific facilities, such as AFC Urgent Care Portland, and national programs like the free Walgreens program that I utilized. Moreover, if you’re flying United Airlines out of San Francisco (SFO), it’s even easier—thanks to a partnership between United and Color, you’ll receive an email a week before your flight to arrange for a test at the airport.

Once you receive your test results, upload a PDF file to your Safe Travels account. You’ll need to present this documentation to the arrival team when you arrive in Hawaii. If your results are still pending, you can still board the plane; however, you will have to quarantine upon arrival until you receive a negative result. Travelers with a positive result must quarantine for 14 days upon arrival and contact Hawaii’s State Department of Health.

Lastly, within 24 hours of your departure flight, log into your Safe Travels portal and complete the health questionnaire. After that, you’ll receive a QR code that will be scanned by the arrival team at the airport in Hawaii and at your hotel.

What Is It Like to Fly to and from Hawaii Right Now?

This was my first flight since the pandemic, and I aimed to minimize my time in airports. Thus, I booked a direct flight from Denver (DIA) to Oahu’s Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL) with United Airlines. My flight was scheduled for Oct. 17—two days after the state’s new pre-travel testing program went into effect. I was notified by United the night before my departure that the plane was expected to be relatively full.

Upon arriving at DIA, I noticed the typical queue at the check-in desk, although new no-touch check-in kiosks and bag drops were available. The terminal was busier than I anticipated. Unless eating or drinking, everyone was wearing a face covering. At boarding, they called passengers by rows instead of “priority,” allowing for back-to-front boarding. As we boarded, a flight attendant provided sanitation wipes, and seating assignments were adjusted to ensure spacing between passengers from different parties.

What Happens When You Land in Hawaii?

Upon arrival, a thermal temperature screener checks everyone’s temperature. Afterwards, you’ll be directed to a welcome team who will scan the QR code generated during the health questionnaire, manually review your COVID-19 test results (if available), and take your temperature. If everything checks out, you can leave the airport. If your test results are pending or if you are symptomatic, the team will guide you through the next steps.

For travelers to Oahu, no second after-arrival test is needed; however, travelers to the island of Hawaii are required to take a free second test upon arrival at the airport. If you’re flying directly into Maui or Kauai, you’re encouraged to take a voluntary test within 72 hours of arrival.

If you plan to travel between islands, be aware that each island is managing its own inter-island quarantine process. Generally, all inter-island travel is subject to a 14-day quarantine. Nonetheless, if you merely have a layover at Oahu’s Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL) before connecting to another island, a negative pre-travel test result is valid through your final destination.

What’s It Like Staying in a Hotel on Oahu Right Now?

Many hotels on Oahu are still closed, with several reopening in early to mid-November. Some of the island’s most luxurious properties, however, are now open, accompanied by carefully implemented safety protocols.

Sitting right off Waikiki Beach, the ‘Alohilani Resort Waikiki Beach makes an immediate impression. Before entering your room, prepare to be amazed by the intricate coral-inspired sculpture behind the front desk and the fish circling in the lobby’s two-story aquarium. The rooms are clean and contemporary, bathed in natural light. I recommend booking a room with views of Diamond Head and spending a day enjoying daiquiris by the infinity pool. Throughout the property, the brand’s “Be Well. Stay Well.” protocols are in place. Along with typical safety measures, hand sanitizer stations are readily available, and in-room safety kits containing masks, disposable gloves, and disinfectant wipes are provided.

Similarly, the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort has developed its “Clean Commitment” platform with Ecolab to promote guest safety. Salter mentioned that it “incorporates state-of-the-art technology such as UV wands and electrostatic sprayers, along with thorough training for hosts, social distancing, and surface cleaning.” If you’re looking for a place to relax while enjoying the benefits of Waikiki, this resort provides direct beach access, an oceanside pool, and several dining options, including beachside bites (often with live music) at Duke’s.

For families or long-stay visitors, The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Waikiki Beach is hard to beat. Each room—or rather residence—offers separate living areas and ocean views. The larger residences can accommodate up to 10 people in a spacious four-bedroom unit with a luxury kitchen (covering just under 3,000 square feet). To ensure the safety of guests and employees, housekeeping performs a deep clean of the room before every arrival, and items that can’t be adequately sanitized have been removed. Additionally, for a touch-free experience, guests can check in, check out, and request hotel services via the Marriott Bonvoy mobile app.

What Can You Do on Oahu Right Now?

While some activities and shops remain closed, there are still numerous options available. Depending on your destination and activity, establishments may ask for your name, phone number, and lodging details to contact you if necessary.

If you prefer extra caution, heading to the beach is one of the safest activities regarding COVID-19. For a socially distanced adventure, rent a surfboard from Moku for under $10 or book a professional lesson for around $40.

If you’re interested in culture, the Bishop Museum, devoted to Native Hawaiian and Pacific history and culture, is worth a visit. You can stroll through their native Hawaiian garden or explore the various realms of Hawaii in the Hawaiian Hall. Art lovers should not miss the Honolulu Museum of Art, which features a collection of over 50,000 pieces—including Hawaiian art—set against outdoor walkways and courtyards filled with flowers, trees, and sculptures. Lastly, don’t leave without visiting Pearl Harbor. Admission to the two museums and the USS Arizona Memorial is open to the public and free of charge.

For those eager to venture beyond Honolulu, consider a trip with One Ocean Diving. Their daily small-group shark swims provide an opportunity to get up close and personal with various sharks—ranging from sandbar sharks to whale sharks and great whites—without the limitation of a cage. With a 100-percent safety record, One Ocean offers a truly unique experience.

Where Can You (and Should You) Eat on Oahu?

Although a few restaurants remain closed, most establishments are open and ready to welcome back travelers. If you wish to dine in, you’ll typically need to provide your name, phone number, and lodging details (and sometimes your home address), while keeping your group size to five people from the same household or “pod.”

For traditional Hawaiian cuisine, visit Highway Inn and order the popular Kālua Pig combo plate (which includes haupia). Alternatively, the upscale MW Restaurant offers a plate of sweet and sour Mt. View Farms spareribs or grilled hamachi kama. If you’re craving some of the island’s best poke, consider Maguro Brothers Waikiki, Ahi Assassins, or Tamura’s Market. For Japanese cuisine, Marugame Udon makes their chewy udon noodles right in front of you.

For a quick sweet treat, grab a malasada from Leonard’s Bakery or a slice of haupia pie from Ted’s Bakery. And of course, don’t forget to enjoy a cup of shave ice from Waiola’s (at least once).

What Can You Do to Be a Responsible Traveler?

Traveling today isn’t as carefree as it once was. When you leave your home, you risk jeopardizing your safety and that of others. Being a responsible traveler in 2020 means planning a trip in a way that minimizes risks (fewer layovers, safer destinations), researching and adhering to local protocols, staying home if you feel unwell, and if possible, getting tested once you return home.

“Visitors need to be educated on how to care for us as a community, leading to certain expectations we have of travelers—wearing a mask, social distancing, and avoiding large gatherings,” stated De Fries. “We all must do this to protect one another. Ultimately, it will come down to our ability to behave responsibly as individuals and as members of the public.”

In today’s world, everyone must weigh the risks and rewards of traveling during a pandemic. Should you decide to visit Hawaii, embracing the Hawaiian value of malama—caring for the environment and each other—will significantly contribute to keeping Hawaii open while ensuring your safety and the safety of those around you.