A certified Italian wine scholar shares her favorite vineyards in Northern Italy.
For many travelers, one of the biggest reasons to visit Italy is the chance to taste the country’s famous wines. A visit to an Italian vineyard involves more than just a tasting: architecture, décor, and accoglienza (welcoming hospitality) all provide a feast for the senses. Moreover, with numerous wine regions—do you go to Tuscany, or Sicily, or Lombardy, or Umbria?—and hundreds of vineyards, it can be overwhelming to choose where to go.
I’ve been designing custom-made vacations for luxury travelers for my company, The Italian Concierge, for 27 years. As a certified Italian Wine Scholar, I’m currently studying for the more intensive accreditation of Italian Wine Ambassador, and recently visited 29 wineries during a six-week stay.
To help you plan your Italian wine adventure, I’ve selected a few outstanding wineries in the northern part of the country, specifically in the Piedmont and Veneto regions.
Piedmont Region
Best Hospitality: Braida Wine Resort
Get away from crowds and sample the traditional local cuisine with a visit to the countryside at the recently opened Braida Wine Resort, which is highly regarded for their Barbera d’Asti Bricco del Uccellone. Dine on the property or head to the village of Rocchetta Tanaro to Trattoria I Bologna.
Best High-Tech Approach and Attention to Detail – Parusso Winery
In the heart of the Langhe hills overlooking Barolo lies Parusso Winery. With an eye for the smallest detail—from respecting the microorganism-rich soil to hand-harvesting, the Parusso family has been tied to the Bussia area and wine production for five generations with a focus on wine structure, finesse, balance, and elegance. The view from the roof of the winery can be described in one word: impressive.
Most Enthusiastic Producer—Az. Agr. Negro Angelo
Roero is often overlooked by their glitzier neighbor Barolo, but a drive to the hills of Roero will lead you to fine wines and conscientious cultivation of indigenous grapes. Roero is best known for producing white wines with the arneis grape. Producer Angelo Negri is available to narrate with great excitement the three centuries of production and hard work that have led to his success. Ciabot San Giorgio is perched like a crown jewel, an antique house on a picturesque hilltop in the vineyard, offering an exquisite spot for a wine tasting of the offerings of Azienda Agricola Negri wines. It is perfect for a toast between lovers.
Best Shock Factor: Cattedrali Sotterranee di Canelli EST
In Canelli, visit the underground wine cathedrals built in the late 18th Century, uniquely located 32 meters below the surface. These historic underground vaults of brick help maintain the temperature where the second fermentation occurs. This production area is so unique that UNESCO gave them status in 2014. Currently, four vineyards are open for visits: Contratto, Coppo, Gancia, and Bosca wineries. Coppa features 16,000 feet of tunnels, and Bosca features a dramatic sight and sound presentation. Don’t forget to taste the sparkling Metodo Classico wines after your tour. During truffle hunting months, be sure to schedule a meal at Ristorante San Marco. This experience includes going white truffle hunting with the restaurant owner, followed by a spectacular lunch.
Veneto Region
Best Biodynamic Spirit—Agricola Ca’La Bionda Vineyard
At Ca’La Bionda, Alessandro Castellani focuses on producing the best organic Amarone wine possible using only autochthonous grapes (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Molinara) originating from its own vineyards. When neighbors were spraying copper sulfate, he took action in the spirit of producing organic wines by purchasing neighboring vineyards to protect his organic status. Walk the trails of La Bionda between the vines overlooking the Valpolicella Classico area on the Marogne (dry stack stone terraces found in hillside vineyards) to find La Signora; a vine over 100 years old that survived the Phylloxera blight.
Most Creative Architecture, Blending, and Varietals – Zyme Winery
You can’t miss Zyme when you are driving in the San Pietro Valpolicella Classico area. The winery architecture showcases the creativity of the wine tasting experience even before you take a sip. Zyme defies “classic” in all senses—from architecture to the blending of varietals to its labels. Be prepared for experimental tasting rather than traditional Amarone. Zyme is by far the most creative winery I visited.
Explore these remarkable vineyards on your next adventure to Italy. The essence of Italian wine culture awaits you in these beautiful regions.