Discover Doha: A Futuristic City with Innovative Architecture and Premier Museums

The cosmopolitan capital of Qatar could offer a blueprint for how cities look in the next century or more.

During my time as editor in chief of Elle Decor, my colleagues and I often discussed the future. These conversations ranged from architecture and building materials to inclusive, universal design, prompting us to consider how these elements might influence our collective tomorrow. Inevitably, we focused on the trajectory of urban centers: What would they look like? How sustainable would they be? Would cars remain prevalent? Could humans learn to coexist more harmoniously?

Today, these questions are pressing as the pandemic’s impact on urban centers is rigorously analyzed. In the COVID-19 age, it seems everything about how we design our cities requires reexamination—and in some cases, reimagining.

As we contemplate the future of cities, we look for examples, such as Shanghai, Tokyo, and New York City. These cities feature vast neon-tinged skylines and robust (yet sometimes outdated) public-transportation systems, coupled with a renewed focus on pedestrian experiences. Notorious projects like the High Line—a park on an abandoned railway line—have transformed Manhattan’s west side into a green space.

However, to me, the designation of a “futuristic city” isn’t a formula; it’s an evolving experiment that adapts to the needs of the populace. No city encapsulates greater innovation than Doha, the capital of Qatar.

Qatar (pronounced kah-tahr) is an oval-shaped peninsula that juts into the Persian Gulf from Saudi Arabia, with Iran across the sea. (Interestingly, the name of the news network Al Jazeera, which is based in Doha, translates from Arabic to “The Peninsula.”) Historically, this territory served as a fishing and pearl-trading center, ruled by various Arab tribes until the Ottoman Empire expanded its reach in 1871. The Ottomans departed at the onset of World War I, marking the beginning of Qatar’s modern history in 1916 when it became a British protectorate.

Qatar stands as the richest state per capita globally, primarily due to its extensive reserves of oil and natural gas. This wealth has enabled the government to invest heavily in diverse sectors, ranging from art to medical research, achieving an impressive 94 percent literacy rate.

The discovery of oil in 1938 transformed Qatar, as it did for many neighboring states, resulting in an influx of revenue that expanded government services. The sheikhdom declared independence in 1971 after Britain exited the Gulf amid financial constraints. However, the economy faced stagnation in the 1980s and early 90s, which led to a leadership change in 1995. Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani (the “Father Emir”) initiated modernization efforts after overthrowing his father, Sheikh Khalifa bin Hamad Al Thani. A significant reform under his leadership was the National Vision 2030, a comprehensive blueprint for the nation.

Currently, under Emir Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani, Qatar continues to thrive, maintaining its status as the richest state per capita, endowed with abundant oil and natural gas resources. The government’s substantial investments in various fields, especially in cultural and educational initiatives, have reinforced its development.

What does it feel like to be in Doha, this extravagant city of the future? Does everyone drive Ferraris and shop all day? The answer is both yes and no. Having visited Qatar regularly for the past 15 years as part of my role as an editor and design consultant, certain observations continually amaze me. Qatari mornings start early, with the first call to prayer at around 5 a.m. The desert sun rises quickly and can reach 110 degrees in the summer shade, yet, from October to February, a pleasant average temperature of 75 degrees prevails—similar to Los Angeles but with a touch more humidity.

Malls are abundant and serve as popular social hubs. High-end restaurant chains, including Nobu and Dani García’s BiBo, are widespread. Moreover, an emerging movement led by young Qataris advocating fresh produce and organic foods has led to the establishment of health-centric eateries like Torba Café in Education City, known for its delectable buckwheat-and-mushroom pizza.

“It’s not just an art museum. It is the product of wind and sand over millennia.”

Yet, Doha’s allure lies in its striking contradictions. One day I may find myself meeting expatriate English friends at the old Souq Waqif, where affluent locals still shop, indulging in fresh Yemenite cuisine at Bandar Aden restaurant—I always opt for the fahsa, a fragrant lamb stew.

The following day, I’m in the back of a friend’s souped-up Mercedes G-Wagon (or perhaps a Rolls-Royce or Ferrari, often sporting signature Qatari burgundy) heading to full-moon yoga, a nighttime ritual at the edge of the Persian Gulf, offering breathtaking views of the water.

To truly appreciate Qatar’s extraordinary growth and modernization, one must look at its architecture, and no structure embodies this transformation better than the National Museum of Qatar (NMoQ), located along the city’s Corniche. This masterpiece, designed by Pritzker Prize-winning French architect Jean Nouvel, resembles a natural mineral formation known as the desert rose. It comprises over 250,000 steel elements crafted from glass-fiber-reinforced concrete, creating 560,000 square feet of gallery space (the primary exhibition hall is nearly a mile long).

“It’s not merely an art museum,” Jean Nouvel remarked on the eve of its 2018 opening. “It represents the influence of wind and sand over millennia,” he described, revealing the inspiration behind the iconic structure.

Explore the Qatari Desert With Moonlit Camel Rides, Glamping, and Stargazing

He wasn’t joking. Over the years, I have observed the museum transform from a mere construction site into an undulating biomorphic wonder. There isn’t a single bad angle; it inspires fervent admiration. Following its unveiling, the New York Times featured an opinion piece titled “Skip the Vatican Museum. Go to the National Museum of Qatar Instead.”

While the main exhibition space chronicles Qatar’s past, present, and future, a new feature titled “Seagrass Tales, Dugong Trails” aims to educate children about the dugong, a manatee-like species that has thrived in the Persian Gulf for more than 7,500 years but is now facing extinction.

The museum symbolizes the vision of the emir’s sister, Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad Al Thani, chairperson of Qatar Museums, overseeing the city’s cultural initiatives. A Duke University alumna, she has become a key figure in the international art market, influencing much of the country’s cultural landscape. (She and I were classmates, and I advise design projects for Qatar Museums.)

In a TED Talk she delivered in 2010, Al Mayassa underscored the sentiment “globalizing the local, localizing the global,” paraphrasing anthropologist Richard Wilk.

“We are transforming our culture from within, while also reconnecting with our traditions. We acknowledge that modernization is occurring. Qatar aims to be a modern nation, but simultaneously, we are reaffirming our Arab heritage,” she articulated.

At Qatar Museums, Al Mayassa manages a diverse array of cultural projects, including the I. M. Pei-designed Museum of Islamic Art, which is set for its first gallery rehang since its 2006 opening; Fire Station Artist in Residence, a transitioned civil defense station turned creative studio and gallery space; and the Culture Pass Club, a new members-only art and collaboration venue, featuring designs by noted figures like Diane von Furstenberg and Ralph Lauren, alongside emerging Qatari talents.

The Culture Pass Club is situated in Msheireb Downtown Doha, branded the “world’s first sustainable downtown regeneration project,” led by Al Mayassa’s mother, Sheikha Mozah bint Nasser Al Thani. This vibrant neighborhood features Baharat Square, the largest covered plaza in the Middle East; Crystallation, an interactive light tunnel; and M7, a dynamic incubator for design, fashion, and technology aiming to bolster arts careers among Qataris.

Recently, Al Mayassa has pivoted to championing sustainability—a noteworthy endeavor in a nation significantly reliant on fossil fuels. In recent months, she has shared her beach clean-up initiatives alongside her five children on her Instagram, aiming to raise awareness of environmental issues.

“I am striving to motivate individuals to devise solutions for the collective issues we have caused. Qatar, surrounded by water on three sides, has become a hotspot for plastic pollution,” she noted, highlighting her efforts in wearing an abaya made from recycled plastic, designed by a young Qatari label. Qatar Museums has become the official partner of the Milanese Ro Plastic Prize, honoring efforts by designers to reclaim materials responsibly. The upcoming session of the prize will be awarded at Milan’s Salone del Mobile.

Twenty minutes west of Msheireb Downtown Doha, accessed via a subway system reminiscent of Blade Runner, lies Education City, a prominent initiative spearheaded by the Qatar Foundation, established in 1995 by Sheikha Mozah to enhance education, philanthropy, and science for both locals and international students.

The 3,700-acre campus hosts eight universities, including branches of Northwestern, Georgetown, and Carnegie Mellon. The architectural master plan, conceived by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, features the headquarters of the Qatar Foundation designed by Nigerian architect Kunlé Adeyemi and the spaceship-like National Library, which boasts a collection exceeding 800,000 books.

Additionally, Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art stands as Doha’s key venue for contemporary art, along with Sidra Medicine, a 400-bed hospital for women and children that is home to Damien Hirst’s remarkable installation, The Miraculous Journey, showcasing a series of giant bronze sculptures depicting fetal development in a stunning display.

When I first arrived in Doha in 2006, I instantly felt at home. Over the past 15 years, I have been consistently amazed by the rapid development of a city rising from the sands. This pioneering spirit remains intoxicating. However, the Middle East and Qatar, in particular, are often misunderstood by many in the West. My hope is that perceptions will gradually shift, revealing the ample knowledge to be gleaned from Doha’s example.

Understanding these dynamics frequently begins with travel. The initial experience for many travelers is often the airport, and in the case of Doha’s Hamad International, it’s become a significant global transit hub. This airport serves as the first glimpse of Qatar for 39 million visitors annually. Within Hamad International, a striking sculpture, Lamp Bear, crafted by Swiss artist Urs Fischer, encapsulates the magic of travel—evoking childhood wonder and the belief that anything is achievable. Welcome to the future.

Discovering Doha

What to See

Culture Pass Club: A members-only arts club and collaborative space featuring homes available to the public for short-term stays.

East-West/West-East: Located in the desert, two hours west of Doha, this series of four steel monoliths designed by American sculptor Richard Serra extends over two miles.

Education City: Conceived by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, this city within a city houses diverse cultural and research institutions, branches of eight universities, and the Qatar National Library.

Fire Station Artist in Residence: This repurposed civil defense building now serves as a contemporary art space dedicated to supporting artists through residence programs and public shows.

M7: An artistic hub situated in Msheireb Downtown Doha, incubating local talent, particularly in fashion, and hosting regular exhibitions.

Museum of Islamic Art: Located along Doha Bay, this I. M. Pei-designed structure showcases a collection spanning 14 centuries.

National Museum of Qatar: Crafted by Jean Nouvel to resemble the desert rose crystal, this immense 560,000-square-foot gallery explores Qatar’s past, present, and future.

Place Vendôme: Inspired by the 18th-century square in Paris, this expansive mixed-use project in Lusail will feature over 500 retail outlets, restaurants, hotels, and entertainment venues upon its opening next month.

Qatar National Convention Centre: This LEED-certified building in Education City, designed by Arata Isozaki, houses Maman, a monumental spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois.

Where to Eat

Damasca One: A Syrian comfort food establishment in Souq Waqif offering dishes priced between $8 and $35.

Em Sherif: This rooftop dining experience at the Sheraton Grand Doha Resort in West Bay features authentic regional dishes for a prix fixe of $82.

Nourlaya Contemporary: Enjoy lively Sri Lankan cuisine at this vibrant corner restaurant in Msheireb Downtown Doha, with entrees ranging from $13 to $65.

Torba Farmers Market: A sustainability-focused vendor and café in Education City that sells organic meals and produce.

Where to Stay

Banyan Tree Doha: This property in Mushaireb features interiors designed by Parisian designer Jacques Garcia, including Vertigo, a bar on the 28th floor with city views. Doubles from $330.

Mandarin Oriental: Located in Msheireb Downtown Doha, this hotel designed by David Collins Studio offers proximity to both MIA and NMoQ. Doubles from $630.