Captivating Winter Rituals and Daily Life of the Navajo Nation in Arizona

Over the years, I’ve taken on an ambassador role of sorts between Indigenous communities I capture and the wider mainstream media audience—relying on my Nanai/Hèzhé (Siberian Native) and Chinese-American heritage. It’s a responsibility I take quite seriously because the access to experiences and stories that I capture are not my own. It’s a collaborative effort to get the stories right—to really understand what issues look like from particular Indigenous cultural perspectives—and how to see a community the way it sees itself. What transpires next is a translation to the wider audience to help them understand what are often vast cultural differences.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Left: A Diné woman wearing turquoise jewelry. Right: A descendant of one of the original Navajo Codetalkers, Aaron Sam is a Hatałii, or traditional medicine man of the Diné. He performs a cleansing ceremony to clear the air inside this hogan, where he performs healing ceremony in conjunction with the Fort Defiance hospital, on the Navajo Nation.

Much of the work I do is important today because Native communities are so marginalized—Indigenous peoples make up around 5% of the world’s population, but our stories are incredibly important and becoming more so. For example, 80 percent of the world’s biodiversity exists on lands managed by Indigenous peoples. That’s 80 percent managed by 5 percent. It seems only fair that such an outsized influence on the world should receive more attention, and in a way that’s both accurate and culturally-sensitive.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Two Diné women take an early morning run in Canyon de Chelly. They say their ancestors have been running in this valley since the beginning of time.

Mainstream audiences often want to see universal themes and elements that apply to themselves as well. However, many Indigenous cultures perceive the world from a localized viewpoint and possess a different set of values. It’s my hope to impart even a small portion of that understanding to people, especially Native youth, who are often subjected to intense assimilation.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Solar panels and a tricycle rest nearby a Diné ramada, or sun shelter. Ramadas are places where Diné families gather in the summer. Today, as the Navajo Nation continues its efforts to modernize rural areas, renewable energy and Western health initiatives have made inroads.

I spent a week in January of 2019 photographing life on the rural Navajo Nation, particularly young families that were part of the Family Spirit program sponsored by the tribe and Johns Hopkins. While there, I observed many families deeply engaged in contemporary Diné life, while carefully passing their culture forward. My short time there was enough to paint a vivid picture of the people—the sacred heart of the Nation.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Spider Rock is the home of Spider Woman, a cherished hero among the Diné, or Navajo. Spider Woman taught the ancestors of the Diné the art of weaving, and her home remains a sacred place on the Navajo Nation. Today Canyon de Chelly is an iconic part of the American Southwest and Native America.

It’s the desert in January. Here, in Arizona, is the upper rim of Canyon de Chelly, a sculpted red rock gorge that compares well with the Grand Canyon for its craggy juniper trees and vibrant colors.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Left: A juniper tree at high elevation on the Navajo Nation wakes as early morning frost vanishes along with freezing fog. Winter conditions are the norm here, even in Arizona. Right: A free-ranging foal pauses for a moment from grazing in the evening sun near the rim of Canyon de Chelly. Kiliii Yüyan

I hadn’t expected the reds and oranges to be covered in the soft whiteness of snow. My Navajo friends and guides, however, are completely undaunted. This is their home, and they are as excited about the freshly-fallen snow as children. For those that call themselves Diné, also known as Navajo, snow in their ancestral canyon is a timeless special event and something to celebrate.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Left: Renee Charley picks female juniper berries to make ghost-beads. The berries are dried and then strung into necklaces. Junipers are an important part of Diné spiritual practice. Though the relationship is complex, the berries relate to the connection between the human and spirit worlds. Right: Danielle Nelson holds her niece in the doorway of her family’s modern hogan. Based upon traditional Diné earthen lodges, today’s hogans are larger and often use a hybrid of traditional and modern construction techniques.

The Johns Hopkins Center for American Indian Health, which brought me here, has sponsored a program to help young Navajo families learn to be new parents in a culturally sensitive fashion. My job is to document the program and a way of life for these young Navajo in remote areas of their land. As assimilation by the United States has increased over the past centuries, the need has never been greater for Indigenous youth to know and understand their cultures.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Renee Charley brushes a young woman’s long hair with a be’ezo, or bundle of grass used traditionally by Diné for this purpose. For many Native American peoples, hair has special importance, and for Diné, hair is considered a store of memory.

That’s not far from my mind at the top of the canyon when I observe Kristin and Danielle frolicking in the snow with the juniper trees. One is standing under a tree laden with snow, while the other vigorously shakes a flurry from the branches onto her friend. As the snow descends, Kristin collects it in her hands and splashes her face with it. It’s approximately 30 degrees Fahrenheit right now, and with the wind chill, it’s biting, but Kristin remains undeterred, enjoying the snow down her sweater and through her hair.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Kristin Mitchell embracing the snowfall under a juniper tree as it is shaken, taking a traditional Navajo snow bath at Spider Rock. This part of a snow bath is: Yas ninny’ bee táádigis bil ádi didiilchil dóó ádaah nidiníildah, or rub your face and body with snow and dust it off.

This, they tell me, is snow-bathing. Elders have asserted that partaking in snow is to remain strong and prepared for hardships. Snow-bathing also addresses hygiene and wellness. For Kristin and Danielle, it’s evidently about enjoying a good laugh and cherishing the moment, as they exchange playful provocations and laughter down the canyon. And that’s the essence of life for the Diné in contemporary times. There’s a unique amalgamation of ancient tradition, modern technologies, and spiritual resilience.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Left: Diné women carry on a number of important and renowned craft traditions, including basketry and weaving. Renee Charley spins yarn using a drop spindle, as a baby naps in his cradleboard. Right: Siblings sleep in their cradleboards for a quiet moment inside their family’s hogan on the Navajo Nation. Although cradleboards are ancient, they are still in common use by Diné. Kiliii Yüyan
Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
Left: The young sister of two Diné cowboys waits in a pickup as her brothers drive cattle past on the way to auction. The combination of trucks and horses as tools for cattle ranching are a pragmatic compromise between modernity and tradition. Right: A calf looks on after taking a drink of milk from its mother on a long drive to auction on the Navajo Nation in Arizona. Kiliii Yüyan

As I worked across the Navajo Nation, I encountered Diné cowboys herding cattle to market, young couples with their first babies tending to them in traditional cradleboards, and medicine people performing healing rituals for their communities.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
A calf leaps over brush on the northern portion of Navajo land as a Diné cowboy watches the herd. The two brothers are driving their cattle to auction, and learning the traditional skills needed to continue the long lineage of Diné as herders.

Everywhere I looked, I encountered individuals striving to overcome the past legacies of colonization and forced assimilation. I observed young people reclaiming their cultural traditions and efforts to pass them on. As I listened to the sounds of Kristin and Danielle’s joyful snow battle reverberating across the canyon, it became evident to me that the future for the Navajo Nation is bright and resilient.

Navajo life in Winter at Canyon de Chelly
A group of free-ranging horses grazes along the rim of Canyon de Chelly, on the Navajo Nation. Horses are considered sacred animals by the Diné, many of whom maintain free-ranging herds. In recent times, drought has brought significant hardship to feral horses in the area, which are considered to be heavily overpopulated. Resistance from animal rights groups has hindered efforts to manage the herds sustainably. Kiliii Yüyan


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