Discovering the Enchanting Fez Medina

With its labyrinthine passageways crowded with pedestrians and the occasional donkey, the Fez medina, known as Fes-el-Bali, feels like a relic from another time.

The UNESCO World Heritage site is famously difficult to navigate on your own; therefore, it’s wise to hire a guide to lead the way, at least while you’re getting your bearings during the first day or two.

Don’t miss a visit to Fondouk el-​Nejjarine, a three-story caravansary (or trader’s inn) turned woodworking museum. The architecture alone is enough to justify a visit, featuring a central courtyard where caravans once rested. The exhibitions display elaborately carved dowry chests, doors, and furniture, providing a glimpse into the intricacy of Moroccan carpentry over thousands of years. Make sure to climb one last set of stairs to the rooftop, where you can unwind with a cup of tea and take in views of the old city.

Marrakesh’s Vibrant Sensory Landscape

Near Fez’s famous blue gate, the Bab Bou Jeloud, the 14th-century Madrasa Bou Inania showcases Moroccan handicrafts. After a recent restoration, the school’s zellij tilework, carved stucco, and cedar woodwork appear much as they would have 600 years ago. Additionally, across the street, you can spot Dar al-​Magana, a 14th-century clock house that historically used a water clock with windows, weights, and bowls to tell time.

Visit Médin Art for bold prints and modern interpretations of traditional crafts like babouches and woven goods. Furthermore, venture through the unassuming entrance to Le Jardin des Biehn. The tranquil courtyard, adorned with trees and fountains, serves as a serene spot for a drink or a brief escape from the vibrant medina crowds. If haggling in the souks becomes tiresome, you can head to the on-site shop that offers high-quality vintage carpets, caftans, and jewelry. Consider staying at Riad Fes, and ensure to return in time to enjoy the sunset from the rooftop bar, glass of Moroccan vin gris in hand.