Experience the Summer Magic of Aspen: Top Hotels, Activities, and Dining Options

Experiencing Aspen in Summer

While Aspen’s ski resorts are still a big draw, there’s something delightful about summer in this cheerful mountain town.

I first experienced summer in Aspen 25 years ago, during the wedding of two close friends. I landed on a picture-perfect day; without snow, the red-clay cliffs and forested peaks of Colorado’s Elk Mountains, a sub-range of the Rockies, appeared improbably close to the airport. A cerulean sky, dazzling sunshine, and warm, dry air have consistently attracted nature lovers to the Roaring Fork Valley since the boom times of silver mining in the late 19th century.

However, mountain weather can be unpredictable. After dropping off my luggage at a charming B&B in town, I joined friends for a bike ride to kick off their wedding weekend. We chose one of Aspen’s classic cycling routes, a seven-mile ascent of the Maroon Bells, a pair of jagged, purple-hued peaks, via a scarcely populated road filled with wildflowers. By the time we reached the summit, gray clouds devoured the bright sky, and it began to snow heavily. My descent, dressed in a sleeveless jersey and shorts, was uncomfortably chilly. However, a long hot shower restored my spirits, as it is impossible not to feel joyful in this vibrant town.

Outdoor Adventures and Accessibility

Last August, I returned to Aspen. Everything seemed familiar yet different. Walk down Main Street, and you’re still likely to see a rancher in cowboy boots alongside an L.A. actress in high heels. Moreover, the town’s stunning setting remains as captivating as I remembered. One of the best aspects of Aspen is that the great outdoors are immediately accessible, resonating deeply with pent-up travelers during the pandemic. Options for experiencing the natural world abound, whether robustly or gently, such as taking a meandering walk along the Rio Grande Trail, which caters to runners, cyclists, and dog walkers, extending 42 miles to Glenwood Springs.

Aspen is arguably one of the most accessible mountain getaways globally, with the airport just three miles away. The central shopping and dining district is contained within a concise five-block grid. Almost any activity you desire—from early morning hikes to evening concerts—is within walking distance of premier accommodations.

Art and Culture Scene in Aspen

What struck me as new was a scene reminiscent of New York’s Chelsea neighborhood, vibrating with an urbane, black-clad crowd of artists and collectors. Aspen has long been known for its luxury shopping, including designers like Valentino and Prada, yet recently, more than a dozen world-class pop-up galleries have taken root. Last summer, London’s White Cube opened in a historic brick building, showcasing works by artists like Isamu Noguchi and Antony Gormley. Moreover, collaborations with other galleries have introduced dynamic exhibitions, including paintings by Wes Lang and Nathaniel Mary Quinn adjacent to the Aspen Art Museum.

Additionally, the installation of sculptural beams painted in primary colors at the Aspen Institute heralds the upcoming debut of the Resnick Center for Herbert Bayer Studies. This exhibition space will honor the Bauhaus artist integral to Aspen’s transformation into an arts and design hub.

Culinary Experiences in Aspen

Aspen’s food scene stands out, consistently surpassing that of other American mountain resorts. Each meal I enjoyed was of high quality, whether indulging in rabbit confit served elegantly or savoring guacamole on an outdoor bench. The agricultural fields surrounding Paonia supply fresh produce, particularly stone fruit, to Aspen restaurants. Furthermore, the town’s proximity to California allows it to attract esteemed chefs. Notably, Nobu Matsuhisa chose Aspen as the first location for his Matsuhisa brand beyond Beverly Hills, located in a charming blue Victorian.

Casa D’Angelo opened just days before my visit last August. Chef Angelo Elia, from southern Italy, has restaurants in Florida and the Bahamas, and he and his wife dreamed of establishing one in Aspen. Dining in the elegant white room overlooking the lavender-hued mountains, I relished a delightful tuna tartare complemented by peach slices adorned with goat-cheese sorbet. Several guests were ordering the generous veal chop, but Elia suggested “fusilli mamma,” a pasta dish exclusively from his mother’s recipe. A few nights later, when I craved Elia’s dishes once more, I found Casa D’Angelo fully booked.

Accommodations in Aspen

I enjoyed my stay at the historic Hotel Jerome, a grand brick structure with high arched windows built in the 1880s. The original proprietors aimed to emulate a European hotel appealing to year-round guests. Now under Auberge Resorts, it offers all modern luxuries while retaining an Old West ambiance. Accessing my room required passing through the Living Room, one of the hotel’s inviting bars. Even at noon, it buzzed with hiking enthusiasts and golfers. My spacious room, complete with leather accents and a four-poster bed, featured a large window showcasing dynamic views of downtown and the ski trails of Aspen Mountain.

Local Attractions in Aspen

Aspen offers many spectacular hiking trails. I partnered with a local friend and her dog, Cinderella, for a trek to American Lake—an ideal hike that combines beauty without excessive strain. After a brief drive to the trailhead, we began under towering aspen trees, traversing open fields filled with wildflowers. During our three-mile trail hike, we reached an elevation of 11,390 feet at a glacial lake encircled by barren granite cliffs. The tranquility of the surroundings was briefly interrupted as we dove into the icy waters.

Even before COVID restrictions drove diners outdoors, Aspen had a vibrant outdoor dining scene, which has only flourished in recent years. Restaurateurs now create charming alfresco spaces with distinct characters. Duemani offers a terrace filled with flowers that mirrors a Venetian trattoria. Meat & Cheese emanates a Venice Beach vibe, with turquoise chairs and a no-reservations policy that often results in wait times for the delectable vegetarian tacos and communal boards.

For an authentic experience, try Clark’s, a lively oyster bar located in a historic tavern. Here, bartenders serve distinguished varieties of oysters and caviar, promising a delightful culinary adventure.

In my final days in Aspen, I enjoyed the understated luxury of The Little Nell, a resort that has drawn celebrities, magnates, and royals since its opening in 1989. The property, built on the site of a former silver miner railroad depot, offers modern comforts amid a chic ambiance. As I prepared for biking clinics hosted by the hotel and led by former professional cyclist Christian Vande Velde, the atmosphere remained jovial and communal. Riding through nearby mountains, we formed connections over the shared enthusiasm for outdoor adventures.

My trip concluded with a late lunch at Woody Creek Tavern, a quirky spot that has become a legendary establishment. As I enjoyed the vibrant atmosphere, savoring fresh guacamole and listening to laughter around me, I appreciated Aspen’s unique blend of natural beauty and charming eccentricity. The town’s resilience shines through the years, maintaining its allure despite the influx of development.

All About Aspen

Where to Stay

Hotel Jerome, Auberge Resorts Collection: A storied 94-room property in the heart of downtown.

Limelight Hotel Aspen: Modern and colorful, with superb mountain views.

The Little Nell: This sophisticated resort offers exceptional people-watching opportunities.

Where to Eat & Drink

Casa D’Angelo: Indulge in delectable dishes at this elegant Italian restaurant.

Clark’s Oyster Bar: The Aspen outpost of a beloved Austin favorite.

Duemani: Aspen’s go-to spot for exquisite crudos and seafood.

Meat & Cheese: A satisfying choice for a post-adventure lunch.

Woody Creek Tavern: Visit Hunter S. Thompson’s former hangout for a unique drink.

What to Do

Aspen Art Museum: Explore a premier collection of contemporary art in an architectural gem by Shigeru Ban.

Aspen Institute: Visit the new Resnick Center for Herbert Bayer Studies, dedicated to the renowned Bauhaus artist.

Baldwin Gallery: Discover works by contemporary art luminaries.

A version of this story originally appeared in the June 2022 issue of iBestTravel under the headline High Summer.