Essential Travel Tips for Bhutan’s Reopening: What You Need to Know

Arrival in Bhutan

Our plane descended between the 18,000-foot peaks of the Himalayas into the narrow, temple-dotted valley of Paro, Bhutan. It’s a very technical airport landing, in a country with extremely tight tourism policies, but no one said it was easy to reach Shangri-La. This tiny Buddhist kingdom, landlocked between India and China, only got roads to the outside world in 1962 and opened to travelers less than 50 years ago.

Today, Sept. 23, the country reopened to foreign travelers. Placing incredible value on their cultural heritage, the happiness of their citizens, and the sustainability of their carbon-negative country, Bhutan has always had a mindful approach to tourism. Moreover, they’ve significantly raised the tourism tax, which now costs $200 daily (up from $65 a day); the tax, called a Sustainable Development Fee (SDF), is meant to fund social programs, infrastructure, and environmental protections. These protocols are designed to prevent overtourism, as visitation numbers have shot up in the last 20 years, increasing 4,052% since 2000, per the World Tourism Organization.

The inflated Sustainable Development Fee is not the only change. Pre-planned tours are no longer required, giving travelers more freedom. “Our strategy for the revamp of the tourism sector brings us back to our roots of ‘High Value, Low Volume’ tourism, where we meet the needs of tourists while protecting our people, culture, values, and environment,” said Dorji Dhradhul, director general, Tourism Council of Bhutan. Consequently, while some in the travel community applaud this commitment to excellence, there are concerns that the price hike discriminates against non-wealthy travelers. Locals in the Bhutanese hospitality industry are worried that such a high SDF will slash visitation numbers, and that lifting the mandatory tour packages, which previously filled the hotels, restaurants, and attractions, will further hurt those businesses.

Travel Requirements to Bhutan

To complete the visa process, you will need a passport (that will not expire in the next six months); travel insurance (we recommend Allianz AllTrips); dates of arrival and departure; and payment details. Proof of COVID-19 vaccination is not required; however, you could be selected at the airport for random RT-PCR testing. To stay informed on the latest guidelines, see the Tourism Council of Bhutan’s FAQ page. The visa application fee ($40) can be paid by credit card and processed in conjunction with the Sustainable Development Fee ($200 a day for adults, $100 for kids ages 6 to 12, and free for those 5 or younger). You can apply for the standard 90-day visa online or let your guide handle the processing (it’s typically included in their service). To start the visa application process, visit Bhutan’s newly launched tourism website and the Department of Immigration website.

For flights, Drukair and Bhutan Airlines fly to Paro International Airport, the country’s only international airport. Departures are available from Singapore; Kathmandu, Nepal; Dhaka, Bangladesh; five Indian cities (New Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati, Gaya, and Bagdogra); and Bangkok. Flights tend to be cheaper from India, though you will need to obtain a visa for India ($25). Although not directly linked, we flew from New Delhi and used our Indian visa as an opportunity to extend our trip for two weeks in the incredible subcontinent. The government website Bhutan.Travel offers a comprehensive list of approved guides, tour operators, hotels, itineraries, and more to assist travelers in their planning.

Reasons to Visit Now

During the 916 days without visitors, Bhutan took this quiet time to polish every facet of its tourism sector, including hotel renovations, transportation improvements, and personnel training. Walking into Paro International Airport, we felt as if we had entered a monument to Bhutanese art and architecture. His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck commissioned 60 artists to work around the clock to transform it into the country’s largest art gallery and exhibition space, complete with a baggage carousel that rotates around a replica of a 17th-century dzong (monastery). When we drove from the capital of Thimphu to the western district of Haa, the newly built Damchu-Chukha bypass shortened the mountainous drive by an hour. At Pamtsho Hotel, the owners were celebrating the grand opening of their chic café, made possible with time and funding from pandemic relief. In 2019, there were more than 3,000 registered guides nationwide; however, with the government’s new Tour Guide Readiness Assessment, they are now refining that number to a top-notch fleet, presently at 481. The Tourism Council of Bhutan recognizes that their Sustainable Development Fee is asking a lot of visitors and consequently aims to provide a world-class experience in return.

What’s New in Bhutan

Bhutan is renowned for its temples precariously perched on cliffs, vibrant festivals, 20,000-foot mountains, and fortified monasteries reminiscent of Tibet. However, the country isn’t resting on its laurels to attract visitors. The much-anticipated Trans-Bhutan Trail, an ancient footpath and main thoroughfare that connected the country until the 1960s, has been restored for locals and foreign trekkers alike. With our guides at Bridge to Bhutan, we had the chance to experience a portion of this 250-mile trail, and were impressed by the lush flora and fauna, botanical signs, historical markers, and QR codes along the way. We concluded our trek at the 108 hand-painted chortens (Buddhist shrines) of Dochula Pass, eager for more trail time.

Along the river in downtown Thimphu, the Centenary Farmers Market has a new outdoor counterpart featuring artisanal food stalls, a music stage, a children’s park, and trendy eateries. In Paro, the National Museum of Bhutan has just reopened after nine years of restoration work on this 17th-century building, enriching their encyclopedic offerings. We enjoyed exploring the stone passageways and quirky stairwells of this seven-story watchtower, each leading to multimedia exhibits covering various aspects of the country’s traditional dress and modern monarchy.

When it comes to tour operators, they are enhancing their offerings with more personalized and unique experiences. “We will definitively have to be creative and carve new and interesting itineraries and activities,” said Fin Norbu, co-founder of Bridge to Bhutan. To enrich our experience, Norbu kindly invited us to his family’s ancestral home in Dorica to participate in a Buddhist house blessing ceremony, which involved sitting cross-legged in a hand-painted temple with a circle of monks, playing horns, chanting verses, and sharing fruit offerings.

Partially Guided Trips

While you still cannot roam freely around the country, the Tourism Council of Bhutan is modernizing its systems to provide travelers with more mobility, choice, and luxuries. They have removed the requirement of a 24/7 guide, the mandate to follow pre-approved itineraries, and stops at immigration checkpoints. Now that three-star package tours aren’t the default choice, you can land at the airport, hail an (electric) taxi, and be whisked away to either Paro or Thimphu for a stay, whether at the newly completed Six Senses or in a local home. You can wander through artisanal shops, sample food from various stalls, catch an archery tournament (the country’s national sport), and mingle with locals in the plazas and parks.

However, to visit the main attractions, trek, or explore outside of Thimphu and Paro, a guide is still required. Travelers can secure a guide on the spot by using luxury hotel services or meeting an independent guide (booking through a tour operator in advance is also an option). The tour company we engaged with, Bridge to Bhutan, charged $185 daily per person (separate from the SDF), which covered a driver, guide, monument tickets, meals, accommodation, visa fees, and concierge services. We stayed at charming family-run guesthouses (and enjoyed a night at Le Méridien Paro), indulged in farm-to-table meals, and were driven to every attraction. They managed all logistics relating to visas and bookings at hotels, restaurants, and sites.

When selecting accommodations (either independently or with your guide), we recommend a combination of lodging; consider a farm stay for an authentic experience in local life, followed by a luxurious retreat at Gangtey Lodge or a couple of nights at the much-anticipated andBeyond Punakha River Lodge opening next year.

Bhutan’s well-preserved heritage is layered and profoundly beautiful when explored with local guidance. No aspect of your tourism experience in Bhutan is diluted for Western consumption. While Bhutan’s new approach to tourism may be contentious, it clearly delineates their vision. They aim to attract visitors who genuinely care about their culture and environment, advocating for its preservation.

For more of Mike and Anne’s coverage of Bhutan, follow their Instagram and visit their travel website HoneyTrek.com.