Grammy-Nominated Trumpet Player Discusses Mardi Gras and the Heart of New Orleans Music

Branden Lewis’s Identity

When he moved to New Orleans at 24, Branden Lewis felt as if he’d found his true identity. The Grammy-nominated trumpet player and Preservation Hall Jazz Band member plays weekly at the Chandelier Bar at the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans. Despite growing up in Los Angeles, his family’s deep ties to the Crescent City shaped his understanding of Creole culture.

“Being Creole and being from New Orleans has always been a huge part of my family’s identity,” he notes. “There’s a strong sense of belonging and community here, especially for a musician coming to one of the greatest musical cities in the world.”

The Role of Music in New Orleans

Music is the beating heart of New Orleans. It permeates the air from bars, cafés, clubs, and sidewalks, making it impossible to separate the city from its melodies. The city’s rich musical tapestry combines European, African, Caribbean, and Native American influences.

New Orleans has produced a long list of musical giants including Louis Armstrong, Dr. John, and Trombone Shorty, who have all contributed to the vibrant culture of the city.

“In New Orleans, we incorporate music into every part of life, even funerals,” Lewis explains. “This importance extends from giving musicians more opportunities to work, and artistically, it enriches the community.”

Celebrating Mardi Gras

In New Orleans, Carnival season kicks off on January 6 (Twelfth Night) and builds up to the frenzy of Mardi Gras, which always falls on a Tuesday, 47 days before Easter. In 2023, Mardi Gras is on February 21.

Mardi Gras has deep roots, tracing back to pagan rituals that mark the changing seasons. It has been celebrated in New Orleans since the late 17th century, evolving into a grand event after the Civil War.

Mardi Gras Traditions

Mardi Gras Indians began masking in the mid-19th century, creating costumes inspired by Native American designs that can weigh up to 150 pounds and take nearly a year to craft. Their music celebrates bravery and defiance, making it integral to the Mardi Gras tradition.

“On Mardi Gras morning, I listen to Professor Longhair’s ‘Go to the Mardi Gras,’” Lewis shares. “Then I watch the Zulu parade, and I play in the St. Anne’s parade. It feels like the moment of Mardi Gras when the energy of the city peaks.”

For many, Mardi Gras is less about strict schedules and more about going with the flow, focusing on the festivities rather than the clock. Those who embrace the essence of Carnival often discover the best experiences arise spontaneously.

As Lewis suggests, “The marching bands draw me to the parades, but the real celebration happens in the streets, making the live music a delightful addition.”

Frenchmen street lit up at night
Richard T. Nowitz/Getty Images
Jazz musicians playing in the Spotted Cat jazz bar on Frenchman street, New Orleans
Phil Clarke Hill/Getty Images
The Butterfly King float rolls down St. Charles Avenue on Mardi Gras Day
Michael DeMocker/Getty Images


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