How a Washington Local Enjoys San Juan Island

I’m always amazed how many people have never heard of the San Juan Islands. Tucked away in the upper corner of the Pacific Northwest, just a stone’s throw from Canada, the archipelago is home to some of the most serene landscapes I’ve encountered. There are several islands worth visiting, but the go-to for my family is the second largest: San Juan Island. In a single day, you can experience waves violently colliding with craggy shores, hiking through lush woods, strolling through lavender fields, and enjoying a farm-to-table dinner.

Getting to San Juan Island

To get there, you can take a short flight on a small aircraft, but most visitors drive, bike, or walk onto the ferry in Anacortes, about 1.5 hours north of Seattle. On the ferry, you can grab a coffee from the café inside or spend time on the deck, feeling the clean, salty air and taking in the expansive view of the forested islands dotting the sea.

Exploring the Island’s Natural Beauty

Equally appealing is the fact that you don’t have to be an outdoor enthusiast to enjoy the breathtaking natural scenery, which is shared by deer, foxes, and hundreds of bird species. If you look closely, you might be lucky enough to spot a bald eagle soaring overhead or the slow arc of an orca cresting the waves. In 2013, President Obama designated the region as a national monument, emphasizing the responsibility to respect the land.

The ferry docks at Friday Harbor, a charming, walkable district filled with boutique shops and galleries. Visitors can park right when they get off the ferry and explore the main street, which is lined with independently owned shops and eateries. I particularly enjoy the Saturday morning farmers market (active from April to October) to grab delicious pastries and listen to live acoustic music.

I’m not an avid biker — urban biking terrifies me — but I make an exception for the long, smooth roads of the San Juan Islands Scenic Byway, which circles the island. If you don’t have access to a bike, you can rent one or join a guided tour. Though I haven’t cycled the entire route, a few miles from False Bay to Cattle Point takes you past open fields, charming farms, and rocky beaches. While the steep hills challenge my endurance, the promise of breathtaking views motivates me forward. One particular spot reveals panoramic vistas of the ocean, an unforgettable moment that always takes me by surprise.

There are many easy-to-moderate trails available, such as the 3.6-mile Mount Finlayson loop, which offers a peaceful way to experience the forests and access viewing points. More walking paths can be found in Lime Kiln Point State Park, named after the historic 19th-century kilns on its grounds. The park’s trails invite leisurely exploration; I once spotted a fluffy brown owl nestled close to the trail. Don’t forget to check out the century-old lighthouse, located about 300 yards from the parking lot. The viewing area has also provided me with glimpses of whales, with less disruption than boat viewings. Sunset visits offer the added reward of a rose-pink sky cascading over layers of clouds.

To truly experience the water, consider kayaking. We’ve rented kayaks, which allows for a personal pace, while numerous guided kayaking and paddleboarding tours cater to those who prefer paddling under professional guidance.

Culinary Delights

The island’s laid-back atmosphere is complemented by top-tier dining options that often operate in cozy craftsman houses and other charming venues. In addition to the farmers market, we have a tradition of stopping at Bakery San Juan upon arrival for fresh loaves and delightful treats.

Many restaurants on San Juan Island source seafood from local purveyors like Westcott Bay Shellfish, which is a worthwhile destination on its own. During our visit at the peak of the pandemic, we enjoyed picnic tables outside overlooking the shore. Before lunch, we walked along the dock to observe workers tending the nearby oyster farms. Back at our table, we savored a half-dozen crisp and fresh oysters — both raw and grilled — paired with white wine. It was one of the most relaxed meals I’d enjoyed in months.

For an upscale experience, the menu at Coho Restaurant showcases local ingredients, such as sweet onions, heirloom carrots, and island-caught mussels. Nearby, Duck Soup, established for over four decades, focuses on local fare accented with whimsical, wildflower-garnished cocktails. For lighter options, Everelse tasting lounge offers artisan cheeses and meats in a sunny wine garden setting.

Accommodations and Activities

Throughout the island, we always make time to visit Roche Harbor, where an elegant hotel in a historic 19th-century building reflects the charm of the locale. The area includes a shopping center and a marina filled with yachts. Many couples choose it as their wedding destination for good reason, as it is recognized in The Knot’s “Best of Weddings” hall of fame.

The harbor features several memorable dining options. One afternoon, we enjoyed hearty fish and chips and light beer on the sunny deck at Madrona Bar & Grill, overlooking the water. For a more upscale experience, McMillin’s Dining Room offers a fine dining atmosphere with an extensive wine selection and signature dishes like “10-hour roasted prime rib” on weekends. Summer evenings delight guests with the colors ceremony, where a cannon is fired over the harbor just before sunset.

In terms of accommodations, you can choose from upscale hotels like Roche Harbor Resort to charming Airbnbs and Vrbos, as well as camping and glamping options (a friend of mine raved about renting a yurt at Lakedale). Many resorts also feature multi-bedroom houses for group gatherings. For outdoor enthusiasts, I love the rustic Snug Harbor Resort, allowing guests access to complimentary on-site kayaks, canoes, paddleboards, and bikes.

Guests who wish to prepare fresh seafood meals can take advantage of beachside fire pits, grills, and crab cookers. I cherish memories of my uncle’s fishing boat, where we harvested crab in the protected bay. No matter where you stay, you won’t be far from towns or trails, but having a car is highly recommended.

Unexpected Moments

Despite my many visits to San Juan Island, there are still moments that surprise me. During my last trip, we ventured to Grandma’s Cove, a small, horseshoe-shaped beach where we found blissful solitude. The sun sparkled off the waves while the cove’s waters stirred playfully. I captured a video on my phone, but it fails to capture the feeling of being there. I often wish to experience that magical moment again, yet I know that each visit brings something unexpected.