Skiing in Andermatt: A Winter Playground Awaits

Ski Playground in the Swiss Alps

In the Swiss Alps, a little village with two very big ski mountains serves as the perfect winter playground.

However, returning to a cherished destination can often raise expectations that may not be met. Memories may overshadow the reality of noise, weather, and other alterations over time.

Twelve years ago, I embarked on a week-long ski adventure in the village of Andermatt, Switzerland, a place that has remained vivid in my mind ever since. Arriving in the dark on a quaint red train from Zurich, we were greeted by a serene landscape blanketed in snow. The ancient houses appeared to be entombed in the snow, transformations rendering roads and cars into mere shadows of their former selves.

Exploring Andermatt

Throughout the week, snowfall continued. On the Gemsstock, Andermatt’s prominent north-facing peak, the skiing experience was unparalleled. One memorable day, my companions and I navigated through glistening snowfields, eventually stopping for cake at a charming hotel established in 1722. Another breathtaking afternoon was spent aboard the mountain’s shoulder, where the sunlit powder beckoned me to make two exhilarating turns that have replayed in my mind countless times since.

During that period, Andermatt felt like an undiscovered gem among ski enthusiasts — a locale with fantastic snow to enjoy without the crowds typical of Chamonix or Verbier. The landscape, however, was undergoing transitions, particularly as the Swiss army base, once pivotal to the village’s economy, was winding down.

Cultural Shifts and Developments

Not long after, Andermatt began transforming, somewhat unexpectedly, into a hub for a colossal $1.9 billion development project — the largest in the Alps. Milestones included the launch of a five-star hotel and the introduction of a Michelin star to local dining. This modernization culminated with a performance by the Berlin Philharmonic in June 2019, marking a new era of luxury in Andermatt.

Upon arrival at the Chedi Andermatt, I was enveloped in elegance with a polished granite reception area and a warm cup of aromatic tea served upon my check-in. The luxurious amenities, including a stunning 115-foot indoor pool and spa, were truly remarkable, especially considering that Andermatt previously lacked such facilities.

During my morning exploration, I joined an off-piste skiing session led by the enthusiastic guide, Dan Loutrel. His passion for the mountain was contagious as he navigated us through snow-covered slopes, confidently leading us toward adventure.

After an invigorating day on the slopes, we gathered to enjoy hearty local cuisine, sharing stories and connecting over warm meals. Loutrel detailed his journey to Andermatt and the unique charm it offers, describing a balance between old-world charm and modern luxury while retaining its rugged spirit.

Where to Stay

Andermatt Chalet: This six-person rental offers artful refurbishments by British architect Jonathan Tuckey.

Chedi Andermatt: A contemporary, high-style property that has revitalized Andermatt’s appeal.

Hotel Sonne: A historical, classic stay that embodies the essence of Andermatt.

Where to Eat & Drink

Alt Apothek at the River House: Famous for single malts, the bar is a must-visit.

Gadäbar: Conveniently located next to the Lutersee ski lift, ideal for warming up during stormy days.

Gütsch: A Michelin-starred restaurant led by chef Markus Neff, nestled in a cantilevered chalet.

Vinothek 1620: A cozy wine bar set in a house with rich history dating back to 1620.

What to Do

Andermatt Guides: Ideal for serious skiers looking for guided adventures.

Oxford Ski: A trusted outfitter for ski packages tailored to your needs.

Sport Imholz: Your go-to for the latest in backcountry and on-piste skiing gear.

Swiss Snowsport School: Offers individual lessons suitable for all ages and skill levels.

A version of this story first appeared in the December 2021/January 2022 issue of iBestTravel under the headline “Up, Up, & Andermatt.”