1. Overview
This article explores a nonprofit initiative in Dorset, aiming to revive multi-day walks for reconnecting with nature and visiting historic sites.
2. The Rural Pilgrimage Experience
In the chill of a 12th-century English church, we gathered as 23 near-strangers who came together over the summer solstice to trace an ancient pilgrimage trail through Marshwood Vale, a valley in West Dorset. Guy Hayward, head of the British Pilgrimage Trust, led our journey, emphasizing that it’s not merely an exercise in deprivation but a chance to commune with nature and explore the U.K.’s most significant places. He asserted the relevance of this experience, stating it taps into a “universal search for direction, identity, and holistic meaning.”
3. The Journey Begins
We began in Stoke Abbott, one of Dorset’s prettiest villages, following the river Char for about 10 miles until we reached the English Channel at Charmouth, on the scenic Jurassic Coast. Before setting off, we filled our water bottles and engaged in a ceremonial head-dunking in the carved fountainhead outside, where Hayward encouraged us to drop a pebble into the water while setting an intention for our journey.
4. Immersion in Nature
That warm midsummer morning, Stoke Abbott was adorned with biscuit-colored cottages amidst dog roses and shimmering mayflies. Our path led us to Manor Farm, transitioning into deep woodland as we climbed the muddy trail to the summit of Lewesdon Hill, the highest point in Dorset at over 900 feet. The glorious views and circling buzzard heightened our spirits as we trekked along the ancient Wessex Ridgeway, a site intersecting with ley lines of Iron Age hill forts.
5. Literary Inspirations
Beneath cathedral-like beech trees, we reflected on the literary greatness that this landscape inspired, with figures such as William Wordsworth and Thomas Hardy having derived inspiration from these fields. Our pilgrimage co-leader, author Jason Goodwin, recited lines from the poet William Crowe, echoing the history of the land.
6. Connecting with History
We wandered through old pathways linked to smugglers and pilgrims, sunken holloways, and drovers’ routes, embracing the slow pace that allowed us to bond and share experiences. Notably, we paused at the remarkable Pilsdon Community, a haven for individuals in crisis. Here, we embraced moments of introspection in daisy-threaded meadows while listening to folk songs and hymns recited by our guides.
7. A Refreshing Break
After five miles, we arrived at the historic Shave Cross Inn, a 14th-century establishment. With weariness settling in, we gratefully accepted drinks from the owner, Tom Littledyke. This inn, once a pilgrimage stop, is steeped in history, with its ties to Saint Wite, known for lighting fires on Golden Cap to warn against Viking invasions.
8. The Final Ritual
Finally, we arrived at the church, where we lit candles and offered them at Saint Wite’s shrine, a tradition allowing pilgrims to pray for healing. The tranquil ambiance stilled my skepticism, revealing the surprising emotional depth a pilgrimage can foster. It became clear that the continuity offered by this ritual is something essential yet often overlooked.
A version of this story first appeared in the June 2023 issue of iBestTravel under the headline “Pilgrim’s Progress.”
