Discover the Hidden Gems of Sweden’s 30,000-Island Archipelago in Magic Season

In Sweden’s Stockholm Archipelago, a travel writer discovers a “gentle season where blueberries are still ripe, the water retains a streak of warmth, saunas are still firing, and the seas are almost empty of sailors.”

Like anyone who devotedly waits for summer all year long, the end of the season always evokes a sense of tragic transition. This year, instead of being in Washington, D.C., where the summer’s heat and humidity linger into fall, I found myself in Sweden— a land where the seasons are distinctly defined.

The Gentle Season

In Sweden, summer is embraced like the return of a prodigal son. After enduring long winters and days of near 24-hour darkness, the Swedish summer is celebrated with remarkable enthusiasm. On the longest day of the year, Midsummer, festivities abound as citizens gather to enjoy lovely meals featuring crimson crayfish and toast with elderberry schnapps, while taking time off to retreat to summer cottages or sailboats. It often leads one to ponder: is there another nation where the government actively promotes at least four weeks of vacation for its citizens between June and August?

Exploring the Archipelago

My journey to Sweden was partly to immerse myself in this idyllic summer, partly to explore early fall, but primarily to slip between the two seasons and discover the oft-missed magic of the country. The arrival of September brings hints of winter, ushering in a micro-season that merges summer warmth with fall’s inevitable Nordic allure. It is a time when daylight gradually shortens, the air becomes gentle, leaves change colors, tourists depart, and a soft seasonal mist reminiscent of an Ingmar Bergman film blankets the area.

Within the confines of urban life, one might miss these subtle seasonal changes. However, outside of Stockholm lies the magnificent Stockholm Archipelago, where these shifts are vividly evident. Comprising over 30,000 islands across 650 square miles, the Archipelago presents a world unto itself. Once home to wealthy Stockholmers in the 19th century, many of these islands retained charm and allure, allowing for easy access and exploration.

Visitors can enjoy the “right to roam” policy, enabling hiking and camping on all lands, public or private. Moreover, the Archipelago offers a variety of accommodations from inns to boutique glamping spots. Recommended places include Finnhamn cabin rentals, Harö Natur glamping huts, and Idöborg, which features both cottage rentals and glamping options.

Experiencing the Archipelago during this transition between summer and fall offers a unique charm where blueberries remain ripe, waters retain warmth, saunas thrive, and sailors are scarce.

Departing from Stockholm’s lush island neighborhood of Skeppsholmen, I boarded a vessel to the Archipelago. Given the rocky and shallow waters, navigation can be challenging, and expertise from those experienced in sailing pre-GPS is still invaluable. Almost instantly, the city fades, revealing the rugged beauty of the Archipelago’s shoreline, adorned with the iconic falu red wooden homes of Sweden.

Even in this transitional season, when fall has yet to fully reclaim its territory, a soft gray mist envelops the islands. Unlike the gray of a dreary day, this mist has an almost enchanting quality, providing a romantic backdrop to my journey. “It’s ‘the 50 shades of gray,’” says Ulrika Palmblad-Wennergren, from the Archipelago Foundation. “You have to have a passion for it.” As she speaks, I understand the compelling allure of seeking solitude in these islands, free from crowds.

Whether intentionally or not, the Archipelago feels exclusive to distant visitors. Nevertheless, it is accessible to all. In 2025, a national park will emerge across several islands, including Bullerö—a natural and bird preserve. Though the park’s creation faces some opposition, its development is expected to welcome more visitors seeking to explore the Archipelago, which has been long considered off-limits. This vision is passionately shared by individuals like Jakob Rudberg, co-founder of The Stockholm Kayak Trail. This organization maps routes that cater to both experienced kayakers and novices, offering trips that range from a day’s paddling to week-long explorations, fully equipped with camping gear and all necessities for life on the water.

As I planned future kayaking adventures to improve my paddle skills, I hiked across the three connected islands of Finnhamn. This destination attracts sunbathers and picnickers during the summer months, as up to 75,000 boats can dock in its inlets across a typical season, partly due to convenient access from the city via public commuter boats. In the quietude of fall, these wooded islands offer solitude, along with the tranquil 5.5-mile-long Båtuffarleden trail to those seeking quiet escapes.

The scent of approaching fall was palpable as I hiked, passing a landscape dotted with cows, sheep, and tree-rimmed fields. I eventually rowed over to Ingmarsö, home to the celebrated Ingmarsö Bakery. Founded in 2020 by Lina and Victor Wahlcrantz, who transitioned from city life to rural bliss, this bakery presents a charming atmosphere with tables adorned in florals, offering enticing fresh-baked kanelbullar. It felt as if this magical scene was orchestrated by the couple, enhancing the fairy tale essence of the Archipelago.

This sensation hinted at the inevitability of magic, much like the pervasive mist. It became evident that summer is not the solitary season worth enjoying. As the sun briefly appeared, I took a boat to Gummerholmen for a night’s stay in an A-frame glamping hut. Here, I savored dinner crafted from the late summer harvest, featuring delicacies like chanterelles, pickled herring, cod with Västerbotten cheese, and the renowned skagen—a tantalizing blend of shrimp with homemade mustard, mayonnaise, fresh dill, and caviar. Finding such a fine meal amidst the wilderness felt remarkable—an indication that the good life in Sweden involves not just luxury but access to nature’s bounty.

Before sunset, I engaged in the cherished ritual of the Swedish sauna, luxuriating in warmth before plunging into the sea. While still warmer than other parts of Sweden, the water cools as evening sets in. The dropping temperature feels less like a gentle breeze and more akin to an urgent reminder of the changing season ahead—a wake-up call to appreciate the fleeting moments of summer and to embrace the onset of fall before winter encroaches with its icy grasp.

Public transfers from Stockholm to the Archipelago can be arranged through ferry services like Waxholmsbolaget. Options for taxi boats or private arrangements are available via companies like Öppet Hav.