Summary
Sunauli Border Crossing from the Indian Side
The Sunauli border is renowned as the most popular entry point from India to Nepal and vice versa when traveling overland. However, it is important to note that the surroundings are not particularly inviting. On the Indian side, Sunauli is a dusty town located in a less developed area of Uttar Pradesh. The roads tend to be congested with heavily laden trucks, and touts are prevalent. Therefore, it is advisable to pass through the border crossing as swiftly as possible. Below are some practical tips for navigating this journey.
Arriving at the Sunauli border on the Indian side, you will likely have traveled by bus from Varanasi or Gorakhpur, which is the nearest major train station (approximately two hours away). Buses typically drop passengers off in a parking area a few hundred meters from the border. If you prefer not to walk, you may negotiate a cycle rickshaw for a ride across. It is advisable to disregard anyone attempting to sell bus tickets, as purchasing them on the Nepalese side is generally more beneficial.
For international travelers, your first stop should be the Indian immigration office to obtain a departure stamp in your passport, conveniently located on the right side before reaching the border. The next stop is the Nepal Immigration Office at Belahia in Bhairahawa, which is again on your right side shortly after crossing. Visa-on-arrival services for Nepal are available here (please refer to tips below for further details).
Once you’ve cleared immigration, it is essential to plan your onward travel, as Pokhara and Kathmandu are approximately equal distances away, requiring around eight hours or more of travel time. Options include shared jeeps, minivans, or buses, with a bus station situated in Bhairahawa, a few kilometers from the border (accessible by cycle rickshaw). Additionally, various travel agents will likely approach you with transport offers before you even reach the bus station.
Day buses departing from Sunauli generally run until 11 a.m., so it is advisable to arrive early to secure your spot. Night buses depart in the afternoon, taking longer and arriving the following morning, which means you might miss out on stunning views!
Traveling to Sunauli from Gorakhpur
It is also recommended that you quickly exit the less attractive Gorakhpur, as staying overnight is best avoided (though it is preferable to Sunauli).
Buses to Sunauli can be found near the railway station in Gorakhpur. Simply exit the station and move directly across to the main road (while ignoring auto rickshaw drivers who approach you). A few buses should be parked along the road to your right, near a statue of a horse at the intersection. You can inquire with the drivers regarding which bus is heading to Sunauli.
Buses operate continuously, starting at about 6 a.m. and leaving approximately every hour or as soon as they are full.
If you must stay in Gorakhpur, there are numerous guesthouses available along the main road.
Sunauli Border Crossing from the Nepali Side
Many travelers arrive at the Nepali side of the border during the afternoon, having taken an early morning bus from Kathmandu. After clearing the immigration process, continue for about five minutes until you reach a U.P.S.R.T.C government bus stand on your right. Look specifically for U.P.S.R.T.C buses characterized by a blue stripe (noting that the green buses go to Gorakhpur and the red ones to Varanasi). You can board the bus and pay for your fare once on board; buses to Gorakhpur typically cost about 100 rupees per person and run approximately every half hour. While the comfort level may not be ideal, this option means you can avoid the hassle and potential scams that come with private bus operators.
If you prefer shared jeeps, be advised they usually do not depart until they are completely full, often resulting in overcrowded conditions. Consequently, the bus is often the better (and cheaper) alternative.
For those heading to Varanasi on either Friday or Sunday morning, it is recommended to take the direct express train from the nearby small town of Nautanwa, which departs at 11:15 a.m. and facilitates the journey in around seven hours. However, this train is not practical if you’re traveling from Varanasi to Sunauli, as it reaches Nautanwa at 10:35 p.m.
Additional Things to Know: Tips and Travel Warnings
- It is possible to walk through the border 24 hours a day, although the gateway for vehicles closes at 10 p.m. and reopens at 6 a.m. However, it is advised against arriving late at night, as you might find it difficult to locate an immigration officer. Moreover, there are often dangers, particularly on the Indian side, with reports of tourists being forced into purchasing overpriced onward bus tickets that are unnecessary. In short, ignore anyone who approaches you.
- When traveling from India to Nepal, it is advisable to carry U.S. dollars to pay for your visa. The current fees are $25 for 15 days, $40 for 30 days, and $100 for 90 days. Currency exchange facilities are available near the Nepal Immigration Office, but be cautious of scams involving counterfeit cash and untrustworthy operators providing unfavorable rates.
- Indian rupees in denominations greater than 100 (such as the new 200, 500, and 2,000 notes) are no longer usable or exchangeable in Nepal.
- It’s wise to carry a couple of passport-sized photos for your visa application.
- If you are an Indian citizen, there is no requirement for a visa or passport to cross the border. Acceptable documents include a ration card, voter ID, or a driver’s license with a photo. Nevertheless, crossing the border is relatively easy, as no one will stop you. The same rule applies to foreign tourists, who should stay attentive to the immigration offices to prevent missing them!
- Citizens from the following countries are not eligible for visas on arrival in Nepal: Nigeria, Ghana, Zimbabwe, Swaziland, Cameroon, Somalia, Syria, Liberia, Ethiopia, Iraq, Palestine, and Afghanistan.
- Bear in mind that if you are crossing from Nepal to India, your Indian e-visas won’t be accepted at the border. You must apply for a visa at the Indian Embassy in Kathmandu, a process that takes approximately five business days and requires three visits.
