Summary
Known as the “backpacker district” or the “budget travel district,” Pham Ngu Lao is a convenient location in Saigon to find cheap accommodation, delicious food, vibrant nightlife, and explore ticket options for further adventures.
Slightly reminiscent of the famous Khao San Road in Bangkok, many budget travelers choose to spend most of their time in Pham Ngu Lao. With everything a traveler requires and a centralized location near markets and attractions, Pham Ngu Lao serves as the perfect base from which to explore the heart of Saigon.
Area Orientation
The Pham Ngu Lao area is made up of two parallel streets—Bui Vien and Pham Ngu Lao—and several small connecting alleys. Situated in Saigon’s District 1, this area provides easy access to parks, markets, and the major sites around the city.
Tiny alleys extend from these main streets into the area’s interior. These are not the typical grimy, crime-ridden alleyways. Instead, you will find ordinary families residing in the homes lining these streets, and it’s common to walk past an open door and see families gathered around the TV for dinner.
Most attractions in Ho Chi Minh City are located a short walk northeast of Pham Ngu Lao. The Reunification Palace, Notre Dame Cathedral, and War Remnants Museum can be reached on foot in about 15 minutes.
Accommodations
A plethora of budget accommodation options is available in Pham Ngu Lao. Travelers can take advantage of the competition to negotiate room rates easily.
Rooms often come with cable television, refrigerators, balconies, and free Wi-Fi, providing a more luxurious experience for the average backpacking traveler. Always check for signs of bedbugs, especially in the more affordable places. With so many choices available, there is no need to settle for a less-than-ideal room.
While hotels and hostels are found along both Pham Ngu Lao Street and Bui Vien, the best deals tend to be at hotels located off the main path.
An unnamed budget hotel alley connects the western end of Pham Ngu Lao Street with D.Q. Dau Street, presenting travelers with great deals on accommodations at various hotels along the narrow passage. This discreet alley is marked only with a gray sign indicating the Vietnamese names of several hotels. Another broader mini-hotel alley connects Pham Ngu Lao Street with Bui Vien; restaurants and hotels compete for space along both sides of the street.
- Compare rates on Ho Chi Minh City hotels, Vietnam
An Array of Food Choices
Carts selling baguettes, street food, and kebabs are scattered around both Bui Vien and Pham Ngu Lao. Pho24, along with several independently owned pho eateries, remains open around the clock for anyone craving a bowl of Vietnamese pho noodle soup after a long night out.
Numerous Western-owned establishments offer pizza of varying quality, Italian cuisine, and all the usual backpacker fare. The restaurants in the larger of the two mini-hotel alleys have outdoor seating and serve generous portions; affordable beer prices keep these spots perpetually busy.
Water, snacks, and groceries are available at reasonable prices from one of the many Co-op Supermarkets located around the area.
Beer and Nightlife
While most budget hotels in Pham Ngu Lao lack any charming communal space, they still provide a place for travelers. Backpackers seeking cheap alcohol used to enjoy a beer on the sidewalk, particularly along Bui Vien (once known as “Beer Street”); however, a recent crackdown has significantly reduced sidewalk beer sales.
Finding bars around Pham Ngu Lao is not difficult, as many can be spotted on nearly every corner. Some of the most well-known bars offer great deals on local beers and a lively atmosphere:
- Allez Boo Bar: A laid-back café during the day, transforming into a lively party venue at night. Location: 267 Dưong De Tham, Phưong Pham Ngu Lao, Quan 1, Ho Chí Minh, Vietnam, Tel: +84 28 6291 5424
- Crazy Buffalo Bar: Look for the bright buffalo sign at the intersection of De Tham and Bui Vien Street; it’s hard to miss. This expansive venue comfortably accommodates hundreds of bustling partiers. Location: De Tham and Bui Vien St, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: +84 90 842 40 37
- Go2 Bar: Open until dawn, Go2 bar hosts all-night parties centered around its terrace. Location: 187 De Tham, Pham Ngu Lao, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: +84 28 3836 9575
Travel Agencies
Both Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Vien are lined with travel agencies offering trips to the Cu Chi Tunnels, Mekong Delta, and bus tickets to destinations like Hanoi and even the Angkor temples in Cambodia.
Local attractions such as the Vietnamese water puppet show can be booked directly at the theater, allowing you to save money on commissions.
Concerns
The high concentration of tourists in Pham Ngu Lao draws a correspondingly high influx of scams, touts, and thieves who aim to exploit unsuspecting travelers.
Although the area is relatively safe, exercising caution in roadside parks after dark is advisable. Travelers walking through Pham Ngu Lao may encounter persistent attention and harassment from individuals trying to rent out their motorbikes, sell drugs, or even offer services from prostitutes. Always remain vigilant and aware of your surroundings.
Getting to Pham Ngu Lao from the Airport
By taxi: Fixed-rate airport taxis charge approximately $12 to Pham Ngu Lao. However, for a better deal, you can walk out of the airport and flag down a taxi from the parking lot across the main road.
It is advisable to keep your luggage with you in the cab for a quick exit in case of a dispute with the driver.
By bus: At around 30 cents per ride, the airport bus is the most economical method to reach Pham Ngu Lao. Unfortunately, determining the schedule and stops can be challenging.
If you’re lucky, you’ll find the bus right outside the airport. If not, a five-minute walk to a small bus terminal just outside the airport will be necessary—don’t hesitate to ask for directions. This bus circulates through Saigon and stops at the Ben Thanh Market, which is just a short walk from Pham Ngu Lao. The last bus leaves around 6 p.m.
