Ultimate Adirondacks & Lake Placid Travel Journal

Recently, almost at the peak of fall foliage season (the first week in October), I took a three-day road trip through the Adirondacks and Lake Placid with my friend Alison Wellner. Here are a few highlights from my trip, which took us through Chestertown, North Creek, Blue Mountain Lake, Tupper Lake, Saranac Lake, and Lake Placid.

The Adirondacks also comprise several other notable towns and areas that we didn’t have time to visit on this trip, including Raquette Lake and nearby Old Forge. At the southeast corner of the region, the touristy but festive Lake George area abounds with hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops, and recreational activities.

The Adirondacks Park, in Upstate New York

The Adirondacks refers to one of the most prominent mountain ranges in the eastern United States as well as the enormous state park in which they’re encompassed, in northern New York State. Adirondack Park spans over several counties in upstate New York and comprises around 6.1 million acres. Although it’s not part of the national park system, the Adirondacks are definitely on the scale and grandeur of some of the country’s top national parks.

Getting to the Adirondacks – Best Times to Go

Within a two-hour drive of Montreal and a five- to six-hour drive from New York City and Boston, the Adirondacks are a perfect mix of undeveloped wilderness and charming small towns. In fact, nearly 60% of the park is private land. The region has long been a popular summer destination, renowned for its sprawling “camps” – compounds of multiple houses and outbuildings for well-to-do families vacationing since the late 19th century.

With the exception of early spring, which can often be rainy and muddy, the area is popular for vacationing nearly year-round, showcasing some of the nation’s most spectacular fall foliage and a multitude of winter snow sports. Much of the latter activity is concentrated around Lake Placid, which has hosted the Winter Olympics twice (most recently in 1980) and is home to the acclaimed White Face ski resort.

Fern Lodge, Chestertown

We drove up from the Hudson River Valley, stopping for coffee and a quick stroll in the historic resort town of Saratoga Springs (about an hour south of the Adirondacks), before checking in to our hotel for the first night of the trip, Fern Lodge. This spectacular lodge-style B&B contains five rooms, all spacious and luxuriously outfitted, and is a classic honeymoon spot deep in the woods on the shores of Friends Lake.

Hosts Sharon and Greg formerly operated Friends Lake Inn, just down the road (and also a nice lodging option in the area). They can host small garden weddings on their property, which is very gay-friendly, welcoming same-sex weddings and receptions.

Fern Lodge has the look and feel of one of the great camps in the Adirondacks, with rates that include an impressive full breakfast. For a special occasion, consider the two-room suite, which opens to a patio overlooking the lake, featuring a large in-room hot tub, a fireplace, and a stunning two-person waterfall shower with multiple shower heads.

Basil & Wick’s, North Creek

Shortly after checking into Fern Lodge, we drove to a relatively new restaurant about a 15-minute drive away in North Creek, called Basil & Wick’s. This contemporary building, with high ceilings and tall windows, feels somewhat like a ski lodge, located just down the road from Gore Mountain ski area and serving as a popular après-ski option in winter.

The casual eatery offers a delightful mix of updated comfort foods including lobster mac-and-cheese, cedar plank salmon, and campfire steak with horseradish and blue cheese. We shared ahi tuna tostadas and each ordered one of the delicious, fist-sized burgers available with a variety of toppings. There’s also a selection of craft beers on tap.

The nearby tiny village of North Creek continues to grow its tourism infrastructure. While at Basil & Wick’s, we met the owners of another of the area’s fantastic dining options, Bar Vino, which I look forward to trying next time.

Adirondack Museum, Blue Mountain Lake

Chestertown and North Creek are located near the southeastern edge of Adirondack Park and can be easily accessed from I-87 if driving from New York City. From Fern Lodge, we continued north along Rte. 28, one of the classic mountain highways through the Adirondacks, for about 45 minutes to Blue Mountain Lake. Any town in the Adirondacks with “lake” in its name is situated on a good-sized lake, and this one is no exception.

We spent a significant part of the afternoon exploring the fascinating exhibits of the Adirondack Museum, which comprises numerous displays set in different buildings across the extensive property.

We could have easily spent an additional day here, particularly since the admission price allows visits on any two days within a one-week period. Notable highlights include exhibits on historic boats from the region, paintings, natural history, and train and coach travel. There’s even the carriage in which Teddy Roosevelt rode from Lake Placid to North Creek Station following the death of President William McKinley, where he continued by train to Buffalo to be sworn in as his successor. The museum also features a gift shop and a cafeteria-style restaurant with lovely lake views.

Mirror Lake Inn Resort & Spa, Lake Placid

After leaving the Adirondack Museum, we drove through the towns of Long Lake, Tupper Lake, and Saranac Lake to our base for the final two nights, the elegant Mirror Lake Inn Resort & Spa. This historic compound overlooks Mirror Lake and is conveniently located near the shops and restaurants of downtown Lake Placid. The 131-room hotel has actively marketed to GLBT travelers in recent years and serves as a popular wedding and honeymoon destination, also offering packages themed around skiing, romance, and spa treatments.

The rooms are pleasantly furnished with a traditional country inn aesthetic, with some featuring small balconies overlooking the lake. The furniture was sourced from New York’s Harden Furniture company, which has been in business since 1844.

View Restaurant, Lake Placid

We enjoyed a deftly prepared dinner our first night at the hotel’s View Restaurant, which also hosts a superb buffet breakfast each morning. The restaurant boasts an outstanding wine list, an emphasis on local produce and ingredients, and top-notch service. The consistently friendly staff throughout the resort was a highlight of our entire stay.

For dinner, I opted for the citrus-and-herb-stuffed quail with quinoa, smoked bacon, and roasted golden beets. I typically don’t order desserts, but we shared an exceptional walnut shortbread topped with bourbon vanilla ice cream, glazed walnuts, and maple-caramel and dark chocolate sauces.

Ashiatsu Massage at Mirror Lake Spa, Lake Placid

I worked out in the inn’s small yet well-equipped gym in the morning and then proceeded to the inn’s spa for my first ashiatsu massage, where therapists use their feet for a full body massage. I’ve experienced various types of massages before and tended to prefer deep-tissue bodywork, but this treatment may be my new favorite. My therapist explained that this relatively new treatment for the spa allows her to apply long, deep, yet gentle pressure by transferring her full body weight with each foot movement. A week later, I still feel the delightful effects of that treatment.

Downtown Lake Placid and the Brown Dog Cafe & Wine Bar

The village of Lake Placid, which hosted the Winter Olympics in 1980 and 1932, serves as an ideal base for exploring the Adirondacks. It’s conveniently located just off I-87 (about 30 miles to the east) and is close to the area’s top attractions.

We strolled around the charming village of Lake Placid one evening. The main road (Rte. 86) hugs Mirror Lake and features several excellent dining options as well as shops, galleries, and clothing stores. We dined at Brown Dog Cafe & Wine Bar, an inviting shabby-chic restaurant adorned with canine-inspired artwork. The wine list is extensive and thoughtfully curated, and the food was flavorful, albeit somewhat pricey. Notably, “lighter fare” options and lunch offerings provide better value.

Wild Center Natural History Museum, Tupper Lake

The town of Tupper Lake had long been underappreciated compared to other communities in the heart of the Adirondacks, despite its enviable position along a lovely body of water. In 2006, the state-of-the-art Wild Center Natural History Museum opened on the main route between the Adirondack Museum in Blue Mountain Lake and Lake Placid. On our second day in Placid, under clear blue skies, we traveled back 30 miles to explore this impressive museum. It features a grand hall, a theater showing rotating films about the area’s flora and fauna, and interactive exhibits on geology, ecology, and more.

Live participants include playful otters that delight visitors as they dive in their mini-pond. There’s also an ice wall illustrating the glaciation that formed the majestic peaks of the Adirondacks, along with close encounters with marshes, swamps, forests, and lakes. Surrounding the airy, contemporary building are numerous nature trails, including one showcasing green building practices behind the museum’s operations; the Wild Center is Silver LEED certified. Plan to spend at least a couple of hours touring the Wild Center.

Downtown Saranac Lake

Saranac Lake is one of the most scenic villages in the Adirondacks, situated between Lake Placid and Tupper Lake. We stopped here a couple of times on our drives between these towns, and on one beautifully sunny afternoon, we watched the sunset over Lake Flower, which the village center overlooks. Named after three larger bodies of water – Lower, Middle, and Upper Saranac lakes – the town also hosts a handful of shops, galleries, hotels, and restaurants.

We came across the Robert Louis Stevenson Memorial Cottage & Museum, where the famous author spent a winter in 1887, though it was closed during our visit. Nearby, we discovered one of the most inviting inns in the area, the Porcupine B&B, situated in a historic neighborhood of fashionable homes on a bluff close to downtown. It offers five guest rooms, all furnished with exquisite Adirondack-style antiques and period photos.

Also worth a visit, located about halfway between Saranac and Placid on Rte. 86, is Tail O’the Pup BBQ, a rustic lobster and barbecue joint nestled beneath towering evergreens. Affordable cabin rentals are available on-site, and we stopped briefly for bowls of flavorful clam chowder.

Westport, NY – Amtrak stop and scenic village on Lake Champlain

On our last day, we drove 35 miles east of Lake Placid via Rte. 73 and Rte. 9N to the picturesque village of Westport, situated along a cove overlooking Lake Champlain and the rugged Green Mountains of central Vermont. Although Westport is a small town of about 1,300 residents, it was a practical stop for our journey as I planned to take the ferry across the lake a little south in Crown Point. Alison also needed to return to Hudson, situated south of Albany, where she had parked her car.

Westport is the nearest stop for Amtrak trains traveling between Montreal and Albany. For visitors planning to reach Lake Placid by train, it’s important to note that there is a shuttle bus service available between Westport and Lake Placid. Once in Lake Placid, you typically won’t need a car, though rentals are available for day trips around the area.

Westport’s village center features a deli, diner, and a few other businesses, along with the well-regarded Inn on the Library Lawn, which boasts its own coffeehouse and bookstore. It’s a perfect place to spend the night either at the beginning or end of a trip further into the Adirondacks.

The village of Long Lake

Beautiful Long Lake, where I spent summers at my grandfather’s camp as a child, would have received more of my attention had I more time and better weather. We made a brief stop in the village, which lies on the eastern shore of this narrow lake (14 miles in length). The village center has some quirky shops, traditional hotels, and a nostalgic diner. Among the options, the family-run Shamrock Motel & Cottages offers clean and affordable overnight stays, with a lakefront location.

I paused at the town beach, where float planes take off regularly and where the ferry used to carry us to my grandfather’s camp, Watch Rock Point, now sold for over 20 years. As darkness fell and rain began, we drove back to Lake Placid (this visit followed our trip to the Adirondack Museum).

However, an interesting turn of fate occurred a few days later during my flight home; my plane flew directly over Long Lake. For the first time in over two decades, I was able to gaze down at the compound of Watch Rock Point, enjoying a perfect view of it.

A love of parentheticals

I was tempted to merge many asides into proper sentences, but I find their frequency to be a stylistic point. I did remove a few, yet I’m uncertain if fully merging them would be justified. This reads more like a travelogue than a list article, formatted as the latter instead of the former. Nevertheless, it does tread close to blog-post territory.