Introduction
When it comes to looking for quetzals in Costa Rica, most people head to the isolated cloud forests of Monteverde, which is a four-hour journey from the Central Valley on windy, partially-unpaved roads. However, a lesser-known spot is nestled in Costa Rica’s pristine mountains of Cerro de la Muerte, just a 90-minute trip from San José.
In a breathtaking valley known as San Gerardo de Dota, a plethora of quetzals thrive, feeding off the wild advocate or aguacatillo. These red-breasted birds, adorned with magnificent colorings and long, majestic tails, were once considered divine by Pre-Columbian and Mesoamerican civilizations, and they have garnered a dedicated following among birdwatchers and casual visitors alike.
The prime time for spotting quetzals is during the dry season, which typically spans from December to April. Nevertheless, with a bit of luck and patience, these stunning birds can be observed at any time of the year.
Since quetzals are best seen in the early hours of the morning, most visitors opt to stay overnight at one of the local hotels. Many hotels offer tour arrangements to enhance your experience. Prices for these tours can range from $16 (call Dantica, Tel: 2740-1067) to $55 (call Savegre Mountain Hotel, Tel: 2740-1028).
What to Do
If chasing quetzals isn’t your preference, the San Gerardo de Dota valley still has much to offer. The area showcases lush primary forests that blend seamlessly into green orchards, with a refreshing mountain stream creating an idyllic setting for a weekend retreat.
Visitors can embark on a hike down to the stunning Savegre River Waterfall, which presents a moderate challenge in terms of difficulty. This hike features primarily flat walking but becomes quite steep for the last 25 meters. Nature guides are available for this trek, with rates varying between $40-$70 for a half-day outing.
For a unique perspective of the surroundings, consider a horseback tour costing $12 per hour, available through Savegre Mountain Hotel (Tel: 2740-1028).
At Trogon Lodge (Tel: 2293-8181), guests can experience a 10-platform canopy tour, priced at $35 per person. Alternatively, walking tours in either Cerro de la Muerte (around $35) or Quetzal National Park (around $47) can also be arranged through any local hotel.
A coffee tour featuring the first carbon-neutral coffee, Café Dota, is located a short drive away in Santa Maria de Dota. Transportation can be arranged (for an additional $70) from San Gerardo de Dota mid-morning, with the tour itself costing $39. Contact Dantica (Tel: 2740-1067) for more details.
Where to Stay
The Chacon family originally settled the San Gerardo de Dota valley in the 1950s, sustaining themselves through dairy cattle, trout, and fruit trees. The discovery of the quetzal in the high-altitude cloud forest led to a burgeoning tourism industry, resulting in the establishment of small hotels nestled within the mountains.
The Savegre Mountain Hotel (Tel: 2740-1028), also known as Cabinas Chacon, is still run by the Chacon family. The rooms are simple and the food is basic, yet the lush gardens encourage visitors to enjoy the natural surroundings. Room rates per night start at $94.
Cozy lodge-style rooms at Trogon Lodge (Tel: 2293-8181) are surrounded by magnificent gardens, making it one of the more desirable accommodations in the area. Overnight rates range from $83 to $134.
For those seeking a more modern experience, Dantica (Tel: 2740-1067) features white walls, chic furniture, and expansive glass windows, with rooms priced between $126 and $178 each night.
Hotel de Montaña del Suria (Tel: 2740-1004) offers simple accommodations located deeper within the valley, with excellent access to hiking trails.
Additionally, Hotel Las Cataratas (Tel: 8393-9278 or 2740-1064), El Manantial (Tel: 2740-1045), and Sueños del Bosque Lodge (Tel: 2740-1023) are worth considering. Cabinas El Quetzal (Tel: 2740-1036) offers an incredible all-inclusive package for $63.
How to Get There
Due to the spread-out nature of hotels, restaurants, and attractions, renting a car is highly recommended for your travels. To reach San Gerardo de Dota, take the Interamericana Highway south from San José, following signs to San Isidro de General or Pérez Zeledón. Watch for a right turn leading to San Gerardo about 90 minutes outside of the city, specifically around kilometer 80, as it can be easy to miss.
If you intend to arrive by bus, it’s advisable to inform your hotel in advance so they can provide transportation. Otherwise, prepare for at least a nine-kilometer hike downhill. You can catch a bus to San Isidro de General from the MUSOC bus station, but ensure you tell both the ticket seller and the bus driver that you wish to disembark at kilometer 80, heading for San Gerardo de Dota.