Discover Rodez: A Gem in France’s Massif Central

Situated in the southwest corner of the mountainous Massif Central, Rodez comes as an unexpected delight. Located between the major cities of Clermont-Ferrand, Toulouse, and Montpellier, Rodez is a bustling town with a lovely old center worth exploring and a beautiful cathedral. Many travelers use the airport for cheap flights from the UK and bypass the town, which is their loss. Therefore, if you’re arriving late, consider spending the night in Rodez before heading to your next destination.

Little City Nestled in the Mountains

This is an ideal spot for travelers who can’t decide between a city or the countryside, as Rodez resembles an island in the middle of nowhere. Sitting high on a rocky spur overlooking the river Aveyron, it enjoys a commanding position, as both the cathedral and castle districts were once fortified.

Rodez is in the Aveyron department, an area rich in historical attractions, with several châteaux and bastides nearby. The charming stone cottages keep a solitary watch over vast expanses of land, and sheep farms dot the countryside.

Getting to Rodez

Rodez has its own airport, Rodez-Aveyron, with flights from France, Dublin, and London Stansted via Ryanair. The airport is 8 km (5 miles) outside Rodez. As there is no shuttle service, you will need to take a taxi or hire a car from here.

If you’re coming from the US, fly to Paris and then take a connection to Rodez.

The train station at Rodez is on Blvd Joffre, located in the northern part of the town. The journey from Paris by train takes around seven hours or more.

Getting around Rodez

You can easily navigate Rodez and its immediate surroundings using the Agglobus, which operates several lines on a brisk schedule.

Notre-Dame Cathedral

The sandstone structure resembles a fortress and was part of the town’s defenses. The Gothic cathedral was initiated in 1277 and took an additional 300 years to complete. Its massive belfry, towering at 87 meters high, dominates the nearby streets and squares, adorned with stone decoration featuring balustrades and pinnacles. When you step inside, the cathedral is equally impressive for its spaciousness. Notably, you can find a stunning 17th-century organ loft and 11th-century choir stalls.

The Old Town

Meandering medieval streets lead from the back of the cathedral to Place de Gaulle, Place de la Préfecture, and Place du Bourg, which is filled with 16th-century houses and the Place d’Armes. The episcopal palace adjacent to the cathedral offers a glimpse into history. For guidance, consider picking up a brochure and map from the Tourist Office, which will help you explore the streets.

The Museums of Rodez

While none of the museums are world-class, they are all worth a visit.

The Musée Fenaille, housed in the former 16th-century Hôtel de Jouéry, explores the history of the local Rouergue region from the time humans first left traces, around 300,000 years ago, to the 17th century. The Fenaille Museum focuses on archaeology, art, and the history of Rouergue, with sculptures like the 5,000-year-old menhir carved stones being notable highlights, recognized as the oldest monumental statues in Europe.

The Musée Soulages, established by the major contemporary artist Pierre Soulages, features his works along with remarkable temporary exhibitions, including pieces by Picasso.

Musée des Beaux Arts Denys-Puech honors the works of Denis Puech (1845-1942), a sculptor critical to the art world after Rodin’s era.

The traditional markets in Rodez feature a vibrant selection on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, Thursday from 4 to 8 pm, Friday afternoons, and Sunday mornings from 8 am to noon. During summer, you can find a Farmers Market, alongside a street fair held on the last Friday in March and June, and the first Friday in September and December.

Staying in Rodez

The Hotel de La Tour Maje, located at 1 Bd Gally, offers a comfortable stay in a 3-star hotel connected to an old stone tower.

• Check guest reviews and rates for the Hotel de la Tour Maje.

The Mercure Rodez Cathedrale, situated at 1 Av Victor Hugo, is a solid 4-star option featuring Art Deco-style rooms.

• Explore guest reviews and rates for the Mercure Rodez Cathedrale.

Consider the bed and breakfast Château de Carnac, located just a few minutes outside Rodez in Onet-le-Château. This beautiful building also offers dining options.

Dining in Rodez

Gouts et Couleurs, located at 38 Rue Bonald, offers a Michelin one-star experience in a contemporary setting. Menus range from 33 to 83 euros.

L’Aubrac, found at Place de la Cité, focuses on local Aveyron ingredients presented in an imaginative manner.

Les Colonnes, at 6 Place d’Armes, provides fantastic views of the cathedral and serves traditional dishes at reasonable prices.

Trips around Rodez

The Aveyron boasts ten Plus Beaux Villages de France, giving you plenty of beautiful villages to explore.

• Don’t miss Conques. This stunning village clings to a mountain and was a significant stopping point on the pilgrimage to Santiago from Le Puy en Velay. Marvel at the treasure of Ste-Foy in the abbey church, and if possible, stay overnight to catch an organ recital in the cathedral.