Discover Nimes: A Comprehensive Guide to the South of France

On the borders between Provence and Languedoc, Nîmes looks both back and forwards. It has some of the best Roman remains in Europe, and some of the best modern architecture from the likes of Norman Foster, Philippe Starck, and Jean Nouvel. It’s lively, has a rich culture, special events, and is the city where denim was born.

Exploring the City

The main attraction is undoubtedly Les Arènes, the 1^st-century Roman arena where the Boulevard de la Libération meets the Boulevard Victor-Hugo. It’s one of the best-preserved Roman arenas in the world, filled in the summer by crowds watching significant events: bullfighting, concerts, and the spectacular Roman Games.

La Maison Carrée is one of the best preserved Roman temples in France. Built in 5 AD, it was dedicated to the sons of the Emperor Augustus.

For contrast, the Carré d’Art Jean Bosquet, designed by Norman Foster in 1993, houses a library and, on the top two floors, the Musée d’Art Contemporain with art from the 1980s onwards.

If you’re in Nîmes during the height of summer, one of the most refreshing places is the Jardin de la Fontaine gardens, constructed in 1750 on a Roman site. It’s a delightful oasis in the city with various Roman remains left, including the romantic Temple de Diane.

Walk through the grottos of the wooded slope up to the Tour Magne, which was once part of the city walls built by Augustus. Climb to the top for a breathtaking view over the countryside.

North of the Roman arena, explore the warren of little streets where you’ll find the Hotel de Ville and the Musée Archéologique (Archaeological Museum) housing Roman artefacts that help fill in the details about life in Gallic France, and the Musée sur Vieux Nîmes, full of domestic treasures from Renaissance furnishings to local shawls worn by ladies in the 18th century. This is the place to discover the story of the cotton cloth ‘de Nîmes’ that one Levi Strauss bought to import into the USA in 1848.

A Little History

Nîmes, or Nemausus as it was called, became a Roman colony around 40 BC. Its rise happened nine years later when Caesar Augustus settled veteran soldiers from his battle against Mark Antony and Cleopatra in Egypt. The town was laid out in Roman-grid fashion and flourished. The inevitable water shortage was solved by Claudius’ 50 km long canal, which passed over the magnificent Pont du Gard.

When the Romans left, Nîmes was taken over by different peoples, first the Visigoths, then the Muslims, and then small Germanic states. Nîmes became part of France in 1226, harbouring Protestant ambitions and the Protestant work ethic. It blossomed into a silk and cotton center, its most famous production being the cotton cloth ‘de Nîmes’.

Outside the City

If you have the time, you must take a trip to the extraordinary Roman Pont du Gard.

Where to Stay and Eat in Nîmes

Where to Stay

Try the 4-star Hotel Marquise de La Baume in a beautifully converted 17th-century mansion with a delightful open patio. 21 rue Nationale, 00 33 (0)4 66 76 28 42; 34 rooms.

For a good 3-star choice, consider the Royal Hotel, located just three minutes from the main tourist sites, with Spanish-style rooms. 3 bd Alphonse-Daudet; 00 33 (0)4 66 58 28 27; 22 rooms.

Hotel Côté Patio boasts a charming terrace for a leisurely breakfast and is located in old Nîmes. 31 rue de Beacaire, 00 33 (0)4 66 67 60 17; 17 rooms.

I stayed at Hôtel de l’Amphithéatre, which is tucked into a quiet lane just a few steps from the Amphitheatre. It was charming, with good-sized rooms and an excellent breakfast. 4, rue des Arenes, 00 33 (0)4 66 67 28 52; 14 rooms.

You’ll find many of the cheap hotel chains in Nîmes.

Where to Eat

You’re spoiled for choice in Nîmes, with Spanish food proving an influence alongside Gard cuisine, Mediterranean styles, and top classic dining.

Aux Plaisirs des Halles is ideal for a traditional meal cooked with verve and generosity. It features wooden walls, menus chalked up on blackboards, and a lively atmosphere at this local favorite. 4 rue Littré, 00 33 (0)4 66 36 01 02.

La Grand Bourse meets all the criteria for a great brasserie. It’s open all hours, serves food all day, and operates as a bar, brasserie, and restaurant. This is the place to try the local delicacy, Nîmes brandade (salted cod purée), and Camargue bull stew with rice. Alternatively, you could opt for salmon tartare and rack of lamb with equal success. 2 bd des Arènes, 00 33 (0)4 66 67 68 69.

La Bodeguita in the Royal Hotel offers good Spanish food and tapas, with the bonus of a view of the Maison Carrée.

For more affordable dining options, explore the boulevard Amiral-Courbet and the Place du Marché.

Practical Information on Nîmes, Transport and Tips

A Few Facts

• Located in the Gard (30) department
• Around 145,000 inhabitants

Tourist Office
6 rue Auguste
Tel.: 00 33 (0)4 66 58 38 00

Buy the Roman Pass for a special deal that includes one night in a hotel with breakfast, entrance fees to monuments and museums in Nîmes, an audio-guide for a day, access to the Pont du Gard site with parking included, and intriguingly, a Roman oil lamp with wick (a reproduction, not the real thing) in your room.

How to Get to Nîmes

Nîmes is an easily accessible city with air links from the USA into nearby Marseille, complemented by excellent train travel from there. Furthermore, there are good connections to two other nearby airports with affordable flights from the UK and other European countries, along with easy connections from major French cities.

There are major rail connections to most French cities. Nîmes is situated on the main rail line between Bordeaux and Marseille (which you can now reach from St Pancras in London without changing trains in just 6 hours and 27 minutes). The non-stop train journey from Paris takes 2 hours and 59 minutes.

Getting Around Nîmes

The center is compact and is now traffic-free, making it an easy area to navigate on foot.
There are good bus services in Nîmes running daily, except for May 1. Tickets can be purchased from the main Esplanade bus station and local shops.

• Cabs are readily available in Nîmes, as is car rental. If you opt to rent a car, consider doing so from the airport.