Visit the Alien Landscape

Indonesia’s Kawah Ijen volcano, located near the eastern tip of Java island, is a relatively ordinary volcano by day. However, to discover its true marvel, you must visit just after midnight and hike up into the volcano’s crater. This challenging trek covers more than four miles and ascends to heights of nearly 10,000 feet, typically guided only by the moonlight, provided it’s visible.

Inside Kawah Ijen Volcano

Before beginning your descent into the crater, it is vital to wear a gas mask. As you venture into the crater, toxic sulfur fumes engulf you, hindering both your breathing and visibility. Therefore, hiring a local guide is highly recommended for this journey.

Around three or four in the morning, you will reach the bottom of the crater and behold an extraordinary sight: blue fire erupting from the earth! The flames emit a vibrant blue hue, caused by heavy sulfur deposits in the volcano, best observed during the darkest hours of the night.

The Dark Side of the Blue Light

As you marvel at the azure beauty surrounding you, pay attention to the sulfur miners working nearby—men who move busily without gas masks. These residents, employed by a Chinese company, transport approximately 88 pounds of toxic sulfur at a time, using baskets suspended on bamboo poles across their shoulders, often at a faster pace than most trekkers.

Despite the high commercial value of sulfur, these miners earn less than $7 in U.S. dollars for their strenuous labor. It’s a customary practice to tip them 10,000-20,000 Indonesian rupiah, which they often spend on cigarettes—an ironic comfort given the harmful effects of sulfur fumes on their health. It is hoped that in the future, local residents will no longer have to endure such harsh conditions, allowing Kawah Ijen volcano to exist solely as a tourist attraction.

Kawah Ijen Guided Tours

For those interested in guided experiences, numerous Indonesian companies offer tours, with local guides providing the best insights into the blue fire phenomenon of Kawah Ijen. One notable guide is Sam from Ijen Expedition; he is well-versed in the area, fluent in English, and dedicates part of his earnings to educational initiatives in his village. This investment aims to lessen local reliance on mining jobs, ultimately enhancing community quality of life.

How to Get to Banyuwangi

To reach Kawah Ijen, you have a few transportation options. Blimbingsari Airport near Banyuwangi has recently opened for limited flights. If that’s not feasible, consider flying into Denpasar Airport in Bali, a major travel hub, followed by a ferry ride to Java Island that leads directly to Banyuwangi. Alternatively, you could fly to Surabaya, Indonesia’s second-largest city, and embark on a six-hour train journey to Banyuwangi from there.

Regardless of your chosen route, remember that your trek typically starts around midnight. While some tourists prefer arriving at this hour, others opt to come early to rest and prepare for the incredible adventure that awaits.