Summary
Montségur has almost a cult following, attracting Cathar history enthusiasts, hikers, and lovers of charming small French villages. This tiny village is located in France’s Midi-Pyrénées region (and the lovely Ariège Pyrénées department) on the edge of Cathar Country, near Foix and within easy striking distance of Perpignan. Montségur Château is arguably the most significant monument to the Cathar religious sect.
The Cathars believed in a natural, humble lifestyle and proved a thorn in the side of the Catholic Church which they criticized relentlessly. It was in Montségur castle, perched high and surrounded by the small streets of the village, that around six hundred Cathar ‘heretics’ held off the Crusaders for months. It was on March 16, 1244, that the last Cathars surrendered. Upon their conquest, they were given the choice to renounce their faith or face a horrific death, which most chose.
Legend has it that the Cathar ‘treasure’ supposedly taken by four men escaping on March 15, 1244, is, in fact, the Holy Grail, with the Cathars being the Knights of the Round Table. This tale, albeit far-fetched, adds to the mystique surrounding Montségur.
Read on to follow a photo-guided walking (and hiking) tour of Montségur, with its magnificent château ruins and challenging Mount Pog.
1. Mount Pog in Montségur
As you approach Montségur, Mount Pog will emerge between mountain peaks. Topped by the formidable Château Montségur, this mountain is a well-known and popular hiking spot for Europeans. While the climb is relatively short, it is challenging, usually taking about 20-30 minutes each way. The difficulty of the ascent parallels the secrets that allowed the Cathars to resist the Crusaders for so long. Today, wooden planks support the climb. Local villagers are said to have snuck food and supplies up to the Cathars via these mazelike pathways, further frustrating the Crusaders.
2. Montségur Church
Upon entering the village, a few blocks of houses, a museum, and a couple of locally-owned shops and cafés greet you. The village church exudes charm, its burnt tan color reflecting the southern France sun, inviting visitors in.
3. The Little Details
Montségur may be a small village, yet its personality resonates greatly. Everywhere you turn, small, often overlooked details shine. This cross on the side of a building casts an enchanting shadow, symbolizing the village’s history and spirit.
4. Start Your Climb
As you ascend Mount Pog, take a moment to turn around and appreciate the stunning view of the village of Montségur and the surrounding countryside. Remember to bring water and a hat, especially during hotter months.
5. Inside the Chateau
Just when you feel you can’t take another step, Montségur’s magnificent château reveals itself between the tree branches. Once inside, the aura of the ruins is profoundly intense. Take your time walking around the château’s perimeter for breathtaking views of the nearby peaks.
6. A Perfect Close to the Day
After a tiring day conquering Mount Pog, unwind by dining and resting at one of the local inns. L’Oustal is a delightful maison d’hôte (bed and breakfast) featuring only three rooms. The friendly hosts make it a cozy and welcoming spot, complete with a large fireplace in the dining room.
For more information, consider visiting the Montségur Tourist Office Website or the Ariège-Pyrenees Tourist Office Website.