Tradition and Origins of Nativity Scenes

Traditionally, the main focus of Christmas decorations in Italy is the Nativity scene, known as presepe or presepio in Italian. Every church has a presepe, and they can be found in squares, shops, and various public locations. Displays often extend beyond the simple manger scene, sometimes depicting entire villages. Generally, presepi are set up starting December 8, coinciding with the Feast Day of the Immaculate Conception, and continue through January 6, marking the celebration of Epiphany. However, many are unveiled on Christmas Eve. A majority of Italians typically set up a Christmas crib at home, creating figurines for nativity scenes, especially renowned pieces from Naples and Sicily. Although the presepe is usually assembled ahead of Christmas, the figure of baby Jesus is traditionally placed on Christmas Eve.

The tradition of the Nativity scene is attributed to Saint Francis of Assisi, who created the first nativity scene in 1223 in a cave in Greccio while holding a Christmas Eve mass. To this day, Greccio commemorates this event annually.

Interestingly, the art of carving figurines for nativity scenes began in the late 13th century. Renowned sculptor Arnolfo di Cambio was commissioned to carve marble figures for the first Rome Jubilee in 1300. Notably, the oldest permanent Christmas crib is located in the museum of Santa Maria Maggiore Church, representing one of the top attractions in Rome during the festive season.

Best Places to See Christmas Cribs, or Presepi, in Italy

Naples stands out as the premier city for experiencing presepi. Hundreds of nativity scenes fill the city, with many being handmade or consisting of antique figures. From December 8, the Church of Gesu’ Nuovo in Piazza del Gesu’ showcases nativity scene artwork from the Neapolitan Nativity Scenes Association. Furthermore, the street Via San Gregorio Armeno in central Naples is renowned for its stalls and displays selling Nativity scenes year-round.

In Vatican City, a massive presepe is erected in Saint Peter’s Square for Christmas and is typically unveiled on Christmas Eve, coinciding with a Christmas Eve mass held there, usually at 10 PM.

Rome features some of the most intricate and grand presepi, located in sites like Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Euclide, Santa Maria in Trastevere, and Santa Maria d’Aracoeli on Capitoline Hill. A lifelike nativity scene can be found in Piazza Navona, where a vibrant Christmas market occurs. Additionally, the Church of Saints Cosma e Damiano near the main entrance to the Roman Forum, displays a sizable nativity scene sourced from Naples throughout the year.

Furthermore, an elaborate life-size nativity scene is reconstructed each year in the Grotto, located approximately 20 miles from L’Aquila in the Abruzzo region, which is beautifully illuminated for visits in December.

In Verona, an international display of nativities can be experienced at the extensive Roman Arena through January. Meanwhile, Trento in the Alto-Adige region showcases a large nativity scene in Piazza Duomo.

Nearby Jesolo, just 30 kilometers from Venice, hosts a remarkable sand sculpture nativity, crafted by international sand sculpture artists. This daily event in Piazza Marconi runs through mid-January, with donations funding charitable projects.

Manarola, situated in Cinque Terre, features a distinctive ecological nativity powered by solar energy. Additionally, in Celleno, a small town about 30 kilometers from Viterbo, a magnificent presepe is displayed year-round, also well-known for its cherries.

Numerous churches in Milan present intricate nativity scenes during the Christmas season, while several churches in smaller towns incorporate moving mechanical presepi, such as a mechanical presepe in Pallerone, situated in the Lunigiana region of Tuscany.

Presepio Museums in Italy

Il Museo Nazionale di San Martino in Naples boasts an elaborate assortment of nativity scenes dating back to the 1800s.

Il Museo Tipologico Nazionale del Presepio, located beneath the church of Saints Quirico e Giulitta in Rome, houses over 3000 figurines crafted from various materials worldwide. This museum operates with limited hours, usually closing in summer, but is typically open afternoons from December 24 to January 6. In October, they offer a workshop on making presepe. For inquiries, please call 06 679 6146.

Il Museo Tipologico del Presepio in Macerata features an impressive collection of over 4000 nativity pieces, including a 17th-century presepe from Naples.

Living Nativity Scenes in Italy

Living nativity pageants, known as presepi viventi, take place in numerous regions across Italy, featuring costumed performers recreating the nativity story. These living nativity representations are often scheduled for several days, particularly on Christmas Day and December 26, and occasionally again during the following weekend, around the time of Epiphany on January 6, which marks the day when the three Wise Men presented gifts to baby Jesus.

Top Places to See Living Nativity Scenes, Presepi Viventi, in Italy

Greccio, Umbria, holds historical significance as the site of Saint Francis’ inaugural live nativity, characterized by a simple and silent tableau featuring the Holy Family alongside an ox and donkey. Today, Greccio celebrates one of Umbria’s highlight Christmas events, showcasing an elaborate live nativity with hundreds of participants.

Moreover, Frasassi Gorge is famous for hosting one of the largest and most captivating nativity pageants in Italy. Typically held on a cliff near the Frasassi Caves, the Genga Nativity Scene entails a procession up the hill toward a temple, incorporating scenes from everyday life during the era of Jesus’ birth. Over 300 actors participate, with proceeds benefiting charitable causes. This event generally takes place on December 26 and 30.

The picturesque medieval hill town of Barga in northern Tuscany also hosts a living nativity and Christmas pageant on December 23, while Custonaci, a small town near Trapani in Sicily, presents a stunning nativity enactment within a cave, following the townsfolk’s recovery from a landslide in the 1800s. More than a nativity scene, the setting resembles an ancient village with craftspeople and small shops, through performances from December 25-26 and early January.

Additionally, the charming town of Equi Terme, located in the Lunigiana region of northern Tuscany, narrates the nativity story across its beautiful hillside village.

Milan hosts an Epiphany Parade featuring the Three Kings, which travels from the Duomo to Sant’Eustorgio Church on January 6. Rivisondoli, situated in the Abruzzo region, features a reenactment of the arrival of the Three Kings on January 5, along with a living nativity event on December 24 and 25. Additionally, living nativity scenes in the Abruzzo region can be witnessed in L’Aquila, Scanno, and numerous small villages during Christmas Day.

In the Liguria region, towns like Calizzano, Roccavignale, and Diano Arentino present living nativity scenes throughout December. Vetralla, in the Northern Lazio area, hosts the oldest living nativity, while Chia, near Soriano, also in Northern Lazio, celebrates a large living nativity on December 26 featuring over 500 participants.