Porto Venere: A Hidden Gem on the Italian Riviera

Porto Venere is an enchanting town in the Italian Riviera, celebrated for its picturesque harbor adorned with vibrant houses and the iconic San Pietro Church, which is dramatically situated on a rocky promontory. The narrow, medieval streets lead visitors up to a historical castle, while the main street, accessed through the ancient city gate, is bustling with shops and quaint eateries. Not far from the town is Byron’s Cave, a rocky area by the sea known for its connection to the famous poet.

This charming town, together with the nearby Cinque Terre, forms part of Northern Italy’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and tends to attract fewer visitors compared to the Cinque Terre villages.

Porto Venere Location

Porto Venere, occasionally referred to as Portovenere, is located on a rugged peninsula in the Gulf of Poets, an area that has inspired literary greats like Byron, Shelley, and D.H. Lawrence. The town lies directly across the bay from Lerici and is southeast of the famed Cinque Terre, within the scenic region of Liguria.

History and Background

Occupied since ancient times, this area has a rich historical narrative; the stunning San Pietro Church stands on what is believed to have been a temple dedicated to Venus—hence the name Porto Venere. During medieval times, the town was a Genoese stronghold fortified against the threat from Pisa. The battle with the Aragonese in 1494 marked a decline in the town’s prominence. However, by the early 19th century, Porto Venere blossomed into a popular retreat for the English Romantic poets, notably when Percy Bysshe Shelley tragically drowned in the nearby Gulf of Spezia during a storm in 1822.

What to See

San Pietro Church

This church, perched on a rocky outcrop, dates back to the 6th century. A bell tower and a Gothic-style extension were added in the 13th century. The Romanesque loggetta displays arches framing breathtaking coastal views, and the church is encircled by historic fortifications.

San Lorenzo Church

Built in the 12th century, the Church of San Lorenzo features a striking Romanesque facade. It has undergone several rebuilds due to damage from cannon fire, particularly in 1494. A 15th-century marble altarpiece showcases a small painting of the White Madonna, which is celebrated with a torchlight procession every August 17.

Porto Venere’s Fortress – Doria Castle

Doria Castle, built by the Genoese between the 12th and 17th centuries, dominates the scenic landscape of Porto Venere. The castle hike offers stunning panoramic views of the town, San Pietro Church, and the surrounding sea.

Porto Venere’s Medieval Center

Visitors enter the medieval village through its ancient city gate, which features a Latin inscription dating back to 1113. Near the entrance, Genoese measures of capacity from 1606 can be seen. The narrow main street, Via Capellini, is lined with charming shops and restaurants. The area is pedestrian-friendly, with cars and trucks prohibited.

Porto Venere’s Harbor

The promenade along the harbor is exclusively for pedestrians and is beautifully lined with colorful houses, seafood restaurants, and cozy bars. It is a lively harbor filled with fishing boats, excursion boats, and private vessels. Byron’s Cave, located across the point, is another point of interest, where Byron famously enjoyed swimming. While Porto Venere does not have sandy beaches, swimming opportunities exist, with most people opting to sunbathe on the nearby island of Palmaria.

Islands

Just across the strait lie three intriguing islands, which were previously home to Benedictine monks and are now part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Excursion boats frequently depart from Porto Venere to explore these islands:

• Palmaria: The largest island is known for its beautiful beaches, reachable by ferry or boat taxi from Porto Venere. The Blue Grotto, accessible only by the sea, is a highlight, along with the challenging hiking path to Grotta dei Colombi, which has yielded significant Mesolithic period finds.
• Tino: This military zone opens to visitors once a year on September 13 for the feast day of Saint Venerio, featuring remains of the 11th-century abbey.
• Tinetto: Mainly a rock, this military zone, also holds a 6th-century monastery.

Getting to Porto Venere

Despite the lack of train service directly to Porto Venere, ferries from the Cinque Terre, Lerici, and La Spezia (which is on the main rail line along the Italian coast) provide an easy means of access. Frequent ferry service starts from April 1 each year. Additionally, a narrow, winding road connects from the A12 autostrada, but parking can be challenging during the summer months. There is also reliable bus service from La Spezia.

Where to Stay

• Grand Hotel Portovenere: This 5-star establishment is located in a former 17th-century convent right by the seafront in the center of town.
• Royal Sporting Hotel: A 4-star property located just outside of town along the waterfront, featuring a swimming pool and restaurant.
• For budget travelers, Ostello Porto Venere offers affordable dormitory options in town.