From Street Art to Vietnamese Pho and Stately Parks

Taking up large swathes of the city’s northeast, Paris’ 20th arrondissement is a traditionally working-class area known for its immigrant roots, the stately Père-Lachaise cemetery, and surprisingly quiet stretches that lend a particular charm.

This unpolished, complex beauty—never pretty, but often haunting—explains why the area and its diverse inhabitants have been extensively documented by photographers like Willy Ronis. Furthermore, artists and students have flocked to this area in recent years, attracted by lower rents, ample studio space, and an interesting nightlife scene that diverges from the postcard-perfect Paris.

What ultimately makes the 20th arrondissement fascinating is its unique ambiance. Whether you want to explore the colorful street art on Rue Denoyez, enjoy a steaming bowl of Vietnamese Pho or Chinese noodles, attend an indie-rock concert at popular venues like La Bellevilloise, or pay homage to Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, or the fallen combatants of the Paris Commune at Père-Lachaise, the 20th offers a dizzying array of experiences. Boredom is simply not an option here.

Getting There and Getting Around

The city’s largest arrondissement comprises the Belleville neighborhood and the Gambetta/Menilmontant area north of Père-Lachaise. To reach the 20th, take line 2 or 11 on the Paris metro to the Belleville, Pyrenees, Menilmontant, or Père-Lachaise stops.

Map of the 20th: View map here

Main Sights and Attractions in the 20th

The 20th offers a captivating mix of cosmopolitan energy and serene beauty. Stroll through its parks or cemeteries for some quiet contemplation before heading out for a night in one of Belleville or Menilmontant’s indie rock venues. Moreover, be sure to check out the Ateliers Ouverts de Belleville, an open-house event where local artists showcase their studios and galleries.

Monuments, Tourist Attractions, and Parks

• Père-Lachaise Cemetery
• Edith Piaf Memorial: dedicated to the famed French songstress
• Parc de Belleville (a gorgeous Romantic-style park with stunning panoramic views over the city)

Nightlife Spots

Nestled just off Rue Ménilmontant, La Bellevilloise is one of Belleville’s most coveted spots for live music and casual dining. Consequently, be sure to also visit La Maroquinerie, known for its vibrant live music scene.

Further east, La Flèche d’Or is another lively nightlife hotspot worth checking out.

Eating Out in the Area

For suggestions on places to eat, the 20th offers a diverse range of culinary experiences, including excellent Chinese and Thai cuisine. Furthermore, visitors can discover newer establishments like Felicity Lemon, known for its small plates dining.

Vegetarians and vegans will find the 20th one of the city’s most accommodating areas. In addition to long-standing Asian restaurants that offer non-meat dishes, new trendy vegetarian eateries are sprouting, creating what some refer to as the city’s first “veggie village.”

Where to Stay

This area is one of the most affordable in Paris, making it an attractive option for budget-conscious travelers willing to explore off the beaten path. A highly recommended hotel is Mama Shelter, a chic and modern spot near Gambetta.

Is It Safe?

The 20th is one of the “grittier” areas of the city, and visitors often question its safety. However, it is generally as safe as other parts of Paris, although caution is advised at night in certain areas with predominately petty crime. Tourists should be particularly mindful around Boulevard de Belleville and Boulevard de la Villette after dark. Therefore, as a rule of thumb, visitors can enjoy their time in the 20th without undue concern.