Discover the Best 10 Literary Spots in Paris: Writers’ Must-Visit Haunts

Paris: A Literary Haven

Paris may be renowned for its haute cuisine, dazzling fashion, and iconic landmarks like the Eiffel Tower. However, it is equally rich in literary history, waiting to be explored on your next visit to the French capital. Some of the greatest writers, such as Simone de Beauvoir, James Baldwin, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and Ernest Hemingway, crafted their masterpieces in Paris, leaving a lasting literary legacy throughout the city.

For those passionate about writing or literature, discovering these ten bars, cafes, bookshops, gardens, and restaurants, which once buzzed with intellectual discourse, is a fulfilling experience. Imagine soaking in the ambiance where Jean-Paul Sartre enjoyed coffee at Les Deux Magots or where Hemingway penned his thoughts on La Closerie des Lilas in A Moveable Feast. This guide will help you embark on your self-guided literary tour of Paris.

Practical Details on the Literary Tour

The tour commences in south Paris, near Montparnasse. Feel free to start your adventure at any point and visit as many literary spots as your time and energy allow. You can choose to explore the entire route on foot or utilize the metro. The cafes are arranged in an easy-to-follow order, but having a solid street map of Paris, or smartphone maps, will help guide your journey.

La Closerie des Lilas

This elegant café and restaurant, located near Montparnasse, is celebrated for its fresh oysters and beef tartar. The terrace blooms with lilacs, making it a former haunt for French and American writers alike. Notable 19th-century French poets, including Paul Verlaine and Charles Baudelaire, frequented this iconic spot, while the likes of Samuel Beckett, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Oscar Wilde also found inspiration here.

Certainly, it was the American literary elite of the 1920s and 1930s that made La Closerie des Lilas exceptional. Fitzgerald, Hemingway, and Henry Miller often enjoyed drinks here. Legend has it, Hemingway even featured the bar in his memoir, A Moveable Feast, where his friend Fitzgerald first shared his manuscript of The Great Gatsby.

Jardin du Luxembourg

Just a short stroll from La Closerie des Lilas is the enchanting Jardin du Luxembourg. With its manicured hedges, beautiful trees, and vibrant flower displays, this park serves as a peaceful escape. Parisian writers have always appreciated its tranquility; Victor Hugo even featured the garden in Les Miserables during the first meeting of Marius Pontmercy and Cosette. Additionally, Henry James mentioned it in The Ambassadors, while Faulkner concluded Sanctuary here.

American literary icons, such as Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, were fond of the gardens and hosted many creative minds in their nearby apartment. Other American expatriates, like Richard Wright and Chester Himes, were often seen at the Café Tournon nearby.

Cafe Tournon, Haunt of James Baldwin, Richard Wright, and Others

Located close to the Palais du Luxembourg and gardens, Café Tournon is a noteworthy stop on this literary journey. Its history embraces numerous American writers, particularly African-American literary figures like James Baldwin and Richard Wright in the 1950s. Hazel Rowley’s biography, Richard Wright: the Life and Times, highlights Wright’s regular visits for coffee and companionship with fellow writers, including Chester Himes.

Throughout the years, Café Tournon maintained a literary ambiance, even becoming a preferred spot for journalist George Plimpton, where the renowned literary magazine, The Paris Review, first took shape.

Shakespeare and Company Bookshop

A visit to this charming English bookstore overlooking the Seine and Notre Dame Cathedral is a must for tourists. Originally a lending library, Shakespeare and Company was founded by American expat Sylvia Beach. From 1921 to 1940, luminaries like Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, and Ezra Pound considered it their literary haven.

With Joyce utilizing it as his workspace, the shop became a sanctuary for writers. After its closure, George Whitman revived it in 1951, naming it Shakespeare and Company to honor Beach’s literary heritage. Today, it continues to be a nurturing ground for aspiring writers, offering them a place to stay in exchange for work known as “Tumbleweeds.”

Les Deux Magots

No area in Paris embodies literary history quite like Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and the café Les Deux Magots stands at the center of it all. This sophisticated café has been a gathering spot for the city’s wealthy and curious visitors alike. Over the years, it has attracted some of the brightest literary minds, including Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, and Albert Camus, who enjoyed discussions over coffee and philosophy.

Hemingway and James Joyce also attended regularly, further establishing the café as a literary hub. In recognition of its significance, Les Deux Magots started its own literary prize in 1933, reinforcing its connection with Parisian literary culture.

Café de Flore

Directly across from Les Deux Magots, Café de Flore is another legendary literary establishment. Renowned literary figures such as Apollinaire and Salmon gathered here to collaborate on “Les Soirées de Paris,” while André Breton often spent hours arguing philosophy among friends. During the 1940s and 1950s, the café became a hotbed for existentialism, frequented by power couple Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre.

Maintaining a vibrant rivalry with Les Deux Magots, Café de Flore also hosts an annual literary prize, further solidifying its role in the tapestry of Paris’s literary heritage.

Laperouse, Haunt of Victor Hugo, George Sand, and Others

The next destination on this literary tour brings us to Lapérouse, a distinguished dining establishment on the banks of the Seine with a rich literary history dating back over 150 years. Established in the late 18th century, it became a favorite gathering spot for giants such as Victor Hugo, George Sand, and Gustave Flaubert. The private rooms on the second floor served as salons where they penned their masterpieces.

Though later infamous for more scandalous gatherings, Lapérouse remains a prestigious venue, attracting the cultural elite with its old-world charm and elegant atmosphere, making it ideal for a romantic evening or solitary reflection.

Café Procope: Claiming to Be the Oldest Restaurant in Paris

Continuing your literary journey takes you to Café Procope, touted as the oldest café in Paris. Founded in 1686 by Sicilian chef Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli, it became a vital center for literature and philosophy in the 18th century, hosting notable figures like Voltaire and Denis Diderot.

Engaging in heated debates over coffee, Voltaire, Diderot, and other Enlightenment thinkers laid the groundwork for many revolutionary ideas. The café’s literary reputation was well established by the 19th century, as George Sand and Alfred de Musset became regular patrons. Refurbished in the late 1980s to reflect its original style, Café Procope still holds traces of its illustrious past, including Voltaire’s writing desk.

Hemingway Bar at The Ritz

Crossing the Seine leads you to The Ritz, a luxurious hotel celebrated for its storied past with the most famous of literary guests. While musicians and artists have long graced its halls, Hemingway solidified its place in literary history. Known for his extravagant lifestyle, he spent countless hours in the hotel bar, which now bears his name—Hemingway Bar.

During World War II, Hemingway famously declared the bar liberated from occupying forces, a symbol of his profound connection to the hotel. Moreover, he immortalized it in The Sun Also Rises, famously remarking, “When I dream of afterlife in heaven, the action always takes place in the Paris Ritz.” The Ritz has been refurbished extensively, enhancing its luxurious allure since its opening in 1898.

Café de la Paix

The final stop on your literary tour is the illustrious café located across from the magnificent Opera Garnier. Opening its doors in 1862, Café de la Paix quickly became a gathering space for both aspiring and established writers. Its opulent setting was conducive to creativity, and prolific figures such as Oscar Wilde, Marcel Proust, Émile Zola, and Guy de Maupassant often dined here prior to attending performances at the opera.