Summary
At 62 miles long, 18 miles wide, and up to 1,600 feet deep in parts, Indonesia’s Lake Toba in Northern Sumatra is the largest volcanic lake in the world.
The natural beauty of Lake Toba is astounding; Samosir Island rests in the center of the lake and provides the perfect escape from the madness and urban sprawl of Medan, Indonesia’s fourth-largest city.
Lake Toba’s Dark History
The formation of Lake Toba (Danau Toba in the local language) is believed to be one of the most catastrophic events in Earth’s history. A massive volcanic explosion around 70,000 years ago released enough matter into the atmosphere to alter the global climate of the time.
This super-eruption led to a worldwide volcanic winter, which some geologists theorize may have resulted in the extinction of many species of plants and animals. Volcanic ash from the Toba explosion—sometimes reaching depths of 30 feet—has been discovered as far away as Malaysia!
The eruption possibly triggered a series of extinctions around the world. The Toba catastrophe theory suggests that this explosion resulted in a decade-long global winter, nearly eradicating numerous species and causing the human population to shrink to as few as 3,000 individuals following the disaster.
Lake Toba in the Present Day
The tranquil Lake Toba today bears few signs of its tumultuous past. The only reminder of its volcanic activity comes from the lake’s warmer-than-usual waters. Swimming in these pleasant, mineral-rich waters offers a rejuvenating experience for any exhausted traveler.
On the single massive island in the middle of the lake—Samosir—visitors can enjoy a relaxing getaway in the heart of the Indonesian Batak tribe’s culture. With Lake Toba’s high altitude (approximately 900 meters above sea level), the climate is cooler compared to the rest of Sumatra, making it a perfect spot for reflection, relaxation, and capturing envy-inducing selfies against the backdrop of mountains, waterfalls, and stunning lake views.
Lake Toba remains a favorite among backpackers on the traditional “banana pancake trail,” where the picturesque villages along the shores offer diverse local experiences—from purchasing handwoven ulos cloth to enjoying traditional Batak dances, and soaking up the sun on Tuk Tuk village’s sandy beaches.
Visiting Pulau Samosir
Pulau Samosir, or Samosir Island, is a sizable island in the center of Lake Toba, comparable in size to Singapore. Interestingly, Samosir Island ranks as the fifth-largest lake island in the world and sits within the sixth-largest island, Sumatra. This island was formed by a new volcano cone emerging through the Toba caldera.
Most tourism activities at Lake Toba are focused on Samosir Island, particularly within the small village of Tuk Tuk. Countless guesthouses, restaurants, and a few bars cater to travelers between their enjoyable dips in the lake. Moreover, several small but interesting Batak cultural sites on Samosir Island are well worth exploring.
Although the primary allure of Samosir Island is the natural beauty and relaxation it offers, visitors can find several small archaeological sites dispersed across the island. Renting a motorbike or bicycle for the day is an excellent way to travel between these sites.
Tips for Lake Toba and Samosir Tourists
To avoid any inconveniences during your visit to Toba, keep the following tourist tips in mind:
- Sumatra is located directly on the equator; always protect yourself from the sun when swimming.
- Samosir Island’s ATM can be unreliable; bring enough cash from Medan or use the bank in Parapat before boarding the ferry.
- Mosquitoes can be bothersome around Lake Toba, so make sure you know how to protect yourself.
- Tourism in Lake Toba has seen a decline; do not hesitate to negotiate for better prices, and you can read more about haggling in Southeast Asia.
Getting to Lake Toba
Lake Toba is accessible via the small town of Parapat, located about five hours from Medan.
Minibuses to Parapat can be reserved through local accommodations or numerous travel agencies. If you do not plan on exploring Medan, exit the airport and either walk (15 minutes) to the nearest bus stand or take a taxi to the Amplas bus terminal. A public bus from the terminal to Parapat takes about six hours and costs less than $3.
Unless you leave Medan very early, you may arrive in Parapat after the last boat (at 6 p.m.) to Pulau Samosir. Make your way down Jalan Pulau Samosir—the main tourist strip—to find accommodations. The pier is conveniently located on Jalan Haranggaol; ferries to Samosir Island run frequently in 90-minute intervals.
The ferries will take you to either Tomok or Tuk Tuk—Tomok has a more traditional atmosphere, while Tuk Tuk is more backpacker-friendly, both offering dining and sleeping options for your convenience.
Considering visiting Berastagi and trekking Gunung Sibayak? These are popular activities in Sumatra before or after exploring Lake Toba.
When to Go
Although still popular among backpackers, Lake Toba is not as crowded as it once was. The ideal time to visit Sumatra falls during the drier months between May and September. However, expect overcrowding and increased prices during Chinese New Year.
The next segment reveals what to anticipate when visiting Samosir, highlighting the top attractions on the island.
Once you safely arrive at Samosir Island, be ready for various experiences ranging from natural to cultural.
The Natural Beauty of Samosir Island
There’s no purpose to a visit to Samosir/Toba if you do not set out to explore. Rent a bicycle or a motorbike and uncover the massive volcanic island independently, where rice fields and lake shores seamlessly transition into awe-inspiring mountain ranges.
Many hostels and hotels provide bike rentals to tourists. Along your journey, consider the following activities:
Check out the view from Tele: Just across the narrow strip of land connecting Samosir Island to the mainland lies Tele—a tiny town offering the best views of Lake Toba and Pulau Samosir. Climbing up the Tele Tower View Point rewards you with unparalleled vistas of the lake and surrounding landscapes.
See nature up close: The nearby waterfall in the mountains above Tuk Tuk is accessible via a pleasant walk; the pool beneath the waterfall is ideal for swimming. Another more picturesque waterfall requires approximately seven hours of travel time to reach—the Sipisopiso Waterfall, a stunning single fall cascading into the northern end of Lake Toba.
Visit the steaming hot springs on the western side of Samosir Island (just across the Pangunguran crossing); however, the water is too hot for swimming.
Samosir Island: Cultural Stronghold of the Batak
The Batak people represent one of Indonesia’s most vibrant tribal communities, predominantly residing in the highlands of Sumatra. They regard Samosir as the ancestral home of the Batak; the Mulamula Sianjur Village is believed to be the site of the first Batak village ever established.
Throughout Samosir, visitors can encounter Batak cultural experiences everywhere you turn:
See Batak artifacts: Ancient Batak statues, cemeteries, and stone chairs can be found scattered across the island. The friendly indigenous Batak people are always eager to share their culture with guests.
Samosir’s most notable cultural towns are often just a short bike or moto ride from Tuk Tuk. These include Simanindo, home to the former palace of Batak king Rajah Simalungun, now called the Museum Huta Balon Simanindo—a repository of Batak culture; Tomok, where weathered sarcophagi shelter the remains of the esteemed Sidabutar ruling clan; and Ambarita, where ancient figures convened on stone chairs (still in place today) to deliberate on village matters, occasionally executing criminals!
Watch a traditional Batak dance: Experience traditional Batak dance performances twice daily at the Batak Museum in Simanindo. Some guesthouses and restaurants in Tuk Tuk also host traditional music performances at night.
The Tor Tor is one such dance. Choreographed to convey various meanings and emotions, the Tor Tor dance is most compellingly witnessed during Batak wedding ceremonies, where the bride and groom must partake in the dance as part of the celebration.
The native Batak dance known as the sigale-gale features life-size puppets carved from local banyan trees. Dressed in traditional Batak attire, these mannequins dance to a chorus of flutes and drums. Evolving from a funerary tradition (designed to house the soul of the deceased), the puppet show can now be seen at various locations around Tuk Tuk.
Buy Batak souvenirs: The Kain Harum market in Tomok is Samosir’s premier shopping destination, where vendors offer a wide array of local fabrics and handicrafts.
Batak weaving skills are remarkable, with products available by the meter from Kain Harum or numerous shops across Samosir. The Ulos cloth is their best-known item, featuring patterns symbolizing the relationships between the wearer and their community. As such, no traditional ceremony is complete without participants donning specific kinds of ulos cloth.
A roll of ulos could cost approximately IDR 25,000 (around US$1.90) to IDR 5 million (about US$375), depending on its size and quality.
Additionally, another unique Batak item consists of fabric infused with aromatic sandalwood; the “fragrant cloth” retains its scent even after multiple washes.
Food and Nightlife Near Lake Toba
Numerous small eateries and guesthouse restaurants along the main street in Tuk Tuk offer a blend of Western and local Indonesian cuisine. Most travelers meander between various guesthouses or wherever the social scene unfolds each night. A reggae bar perched above town on a cliff provides excellent views of the lake.
When it comes to trying local Batak delicacies, be sure not to miss mie Gomak—a signature curry noodle dish native to the region, served with square-cut noodles, a mild red curry, and flavorful condiments like sambal andaliman (a chili paste made from Batak peppers) and kerisik (dry-fried coconut).
In keeping with its backpacker-friendly ambiance, some eateries in Samosir also serve “happy pizzas” and “magic mushroom shakes,” which may contain illegal substances.
