1. Overview
Discover the hidden wildlife treasures of the Kinabatangan River in Sukau, Borneo, renowned for its diverse flora and fauna, including wild orangutans and proboscis monkeys.
2. Visiting Sukau
Explore the quaint village of Sukau, which features a dusty intersection and a single paved road. It includes three lodges located along a scenic 40-minute walk by the riverbank, lined with fruit trees and hibiscus flowers, where you can encounter friendly village dogs and children.
While there is one unpredictable restaurant in Sukau, it is advisable to dine at your lodge. Two small shops sell water and snacks, but stocking up in Sandakan is recommended for a better experience.
Mosquitoes are prevalent around the river; therefore, it is wise to bring coils and spray, available in local shops.
3. River Cruises in Sukau
A river cruise along the muddy, crocodile-filled Kinabatangan River is an unforgettable adventure! Skilled boatmen proficiently spot wildlife and enhance your experience.
All three lodges offer river trips, with pricing varying based on passenger numbers. Sukau B&B typically has the best deals for river cruises.
Boat trips comfortably accommodate up to six passengers and are available in the early morning, late afternoon, or night. Expect at least two hours of exploration, although wildlife sightings are not guaranteed. Daytime cruise prices range from $10 to $20, while nighttime outings cost slightly more.
Early morning and late afternoon cruises are ideal for spotting monkeys and birds. Night cruises provide the thrill of encountering saltwater crocodiles and mysterious eyes glowing in the trees. The ambiance of nature at night is truly mesmerizing!
4. Wildlife in Sukau
Observing wild orangutans in their natural habitat is a rare experience that surpasses seeing them in sanctuary settings. Though wildlife is unpredictable, many travelers have spotted wild orangutans and the uniquely endangered proboscis monkeys, of which only about 1,000 exist today.
Common wildlife includes wildcats, crocodiles, large snakes, macaques, and various bird species such as eagles, kingfishers, and colorful hornbills. Although sightings of elephants and Sumatran rhinoceroses are rare, they can occasionally be spotted.
5. Lodging in Sukau
Sukau features three basic yet functional lodges along its main road. It’s recommended to book in advance due to fluctuating availability. A simple breakfast is included with your stay, while buffet meals are available at an additional cost.
- Sukau B&B: Known for its rustic charm, Sukau B&B offers the best value for accommodation, meals, and boat cruises. Located at the very end of the main road, rooms start at $16, meals at $3.50, and boat trips at $10. Contact: 019-583-5580 or 089-565-269.
- Barefoot Lodge: As the most luxurious option, Barefoot Lodge provides a beautiful common area for dining and relaxation. Room rates begin at $25, meals at $6, and boat trips at $17. Contact: 089-235-525.
- Sukau Greenview B&B: Situated at the entrance of Sukau, this lodge offers a comfortable common area by the water. Basic rooms start at $20, meals at $5, and boat trips at $11. Contact: 013-869-6922 or 089-565-266.
6. How to Get to Sukau
Sukau is located approximately three hours from Sandakan. Most hotels and hostels in Sandakan offer package tours that include transportation; however, taking a daily minibus is a more economical alternative. Minibuses leave Sandakan daily around 1 p.m. from the waterfront area, costing around $11 one way.
An alternative is to hire Choy, a friendly driver who offers private car services at a similar price as the minibus. It’s essential to arrange this service the day before your departure by calling 019-536-1889.
7. When to Go
The Kinabatangan River experiences flooding from November to March, creating opportunities to explore channels and wildlife areas otherwise inaccessible. However, heavy rains can disrupt boat trips and hinder photography.
The optimal time to visit is from April to October when the flora is in full bloom. Elephants make sporadic appearances, so spotting them largely relies on luck.
8. Getting Back to Sandakan
Travelers can return to Sandakan via hire car, costing $80 or more, or using the daily minibus. Morning pickups can be arranged through your lodge from either Choy or the daily minibus service, both departing at 6:30 a.m. To secure your spot, make transportation arrangements the night before.