Summary
Scammed in Morocco: A Tale of Two Carpets
There is a lot to say about Morocco, the guidebooks do a good job of filling you in on how to get there, where to stay, what to eat and see, and generally most of what they tell you is true. However, what they don’t stress enough is how easy it is to be scammed in Morocco, especially by the carpet sellers of Fes.
Although we spent time in Marrakesh, Meknes, Casablanca, Rabat and Tangier, each offering its unique charm and interest, it is Fes that I would return to. For it was in Fes where I had the rare opportunity to witness a community in harmony with both modernity and their rich historical and cultural past.
Getting to Fes, the second-largest city in Morocco, although lengthy, can be an interesting journey. The newly paved roads provide a comfortable ride through fertile countryside, passing diverse villages where locals observe you passing by without a glance.
On October 21, 2010, I wrote this in my journal:
“Fes, Morocco: This morning I was crushed by throngs of people carrying bags full of groceries, assaulted by smells I could never describe, stepped in several kinds of poo, almost fell into an open pit, had my foot stepped on by a donkey, cried silent tears when I saw the horrific working conditions of the leather tanners, had one of the most frightening and expensive experiences of my life, and can say without a doubt that I (mostly) loved every minute of it. The medina in Fes, the oldest in the world, is a living, breathing labyrinth of a city, enclosed by a wall which limits its physical size but not apparently its population because 500,000 people live within this space. As well as all those people there are mosques, churches, schools, and 90,000 businesses selling everything imaginable and more. The aisles or streets running through the medina range in width from 2 – 6 ft, and you have to share this space with people, donkeys, mules, wheelbarrows, motorbikes, and anything else brave enough to venture forth.”
My Carpet Experience in Fes
Interestingly, I don’t mention anything further about that “frightening and expensive experience,” and upon reflection, I believe it was simply too intense to convey immediately. When arriving in Morocco, you must consciously set aside your Western assumptions. However, despite your preparations, nothing can truly prepare you for the carpet sellers.
Our tour guide Abdul, a knowledgeable individual, appeared rather Western to us despite wearing traditional attire. As he guided us, we learned the medina’s maze-like design functioned as a defense against invaders; entering could mean never finding your way out.
In Fes, the exteriors of shops seem deceptively simple, hiding lavish interiors—a metaphor for the belief that beauty lies within. Therefore, it was a surprise when Abdul led us through a small door into a grand room, illuminated by a beautiful skylight, its walls lined with stunning carpets. Within moments, we were greeted by Mohamed, who seemed to emerge from nowhere.
In one breath, he asked a flurry of questions—“Where are you from? Do you like Morocco? What are your names?”—and yelled orders for mint tea, while others rushed in to display carpets, rolling out a vibrant tapestry before us.
Buying a Carpet in Morocco
Mohamed presented one carpet to me, insisting, “Can you see the detail in this carpet? Four women worked on it simultaneously. Look! Look at the stitching. One woman went blind making it. If you buy this carpet, you’ll be helping 1000 people—a whole village! Every stitch is handmade. It’s only 6,000!”
I squeaked out, “6000 dirhams? ($1,800 Cdn). No, not dirhams, Euros. 6000 Euros! That’s $8000 Cdn!”
At this point, we were surrounded by six individuals—one guiding us along the carpets, another serving tea, while two others continued throwing carpets at us. Mohamed pressed the value of the carpets repeatedly, while Abdul whispered in my ear, “How much do you want to pay? 4000? 3000? You can trust these people; they have the best carpets in Morocco!”
This overwhelming chaos separated me from Frank, who was disappeared into his own group of sellers. I blurted, “How can 1000 people be involved in this carpet? I can’t believe it.”
Their Justification
Without hesitation, Mohamed thrust the carpet closer to my face, insisting, “Look at the stitches, look at the colors. The four women who made this carpet support eight families. Each stitch is handmade! 100 people take care of the sheep, 100 people work the land, 100 people take care of the donkeys, 100 people process the wool. THE WOMEN, THEY GO BLIND MAKING THESE CARPETS!!” Meanwhile, Abdul continued to whisper, “Buy two carpets; you’ll get a better deal, two is better, yes, two!”
I exclaimed, “Two!! How much for two?” Frank, across the room, was mouthing “TWO??” I insisted, “1000!!! We can only afford 1000 Euros.” Abdul was again at my side, assisting in our negotiations.
From the inflated price of 6000 Euros for one carpet, we began haggling down to 1000 Euros for two. Mohamed dragged Frank into the conversation, saying, “What is wrong with your wife? How can I sell two carpets for 1000 Euros?” The negotiation brought us to a tense standoff, and finally, we agreed to the price of 2000 Euros total for two carpets.
Stuck with an Overpriced Carpet
In moments, another man emerged from the background, commanding the scene with two young men carrying ropes. I thought, “OMG! They’re going to tie me up.” Yet, they expertly rolled and secured our two carpets into manageable bundles.
A flick of his wrist brought an older man with a large black marker, who wrote my name on the packages in elegant calligraphy. It occurred to me that Mohamed’s ancestry may have roots in the historic Silk Road, and every individual in that room belonged to his lineage.
Their actions were practiced, precise, and insistent. I had never experienced anything like it; at points, I feared we might never escape the medina’s grasp, perhaps to meet the fate of those who had ventured in before us.
How it all ended
Ultimately, we ended up paying 4000 Euros, equating to $6000 Cdn for two carpets, which surprisingly turned out to be 2000 Euros per carpet—an overpayment by any measure. Yet, we consoled ourselves with the misguided notion that our purchase had improved the lives of countless Moroccans. (I wish)
As time has passed and the sting of that $6000 expense fades, each time we walk over our beautiful Moroccan carpets, we feel nostalgia and a yearning for future adventures.
Do you have a story of overpaying for a product while traveling? Have you ever faced a situation where you felt completely out of control? Share your stories with us.
