History of Doi Mae Salong
Settled by Chinese Nationalists of the Anti-Communist movement known as the Kuomintang, soldiers fled Yunnan province in China to Burma (now Myanmar) after the Chinese civil war in 1949. Eventually, they were displaced from Myanmar and arrived in Northern Thailand in 1961, receiving citizenship from the Thai Government. In return, they played a significant role in combating communism in Thailand until 1982.
Although the Thai government made efforts to integrate these soldiers and their families, the northern region struggled under the weight of the opium trade. Consequently, Doi Mae Salong fell under the control of warlord Kun Sha, entangled in illicit trade until significant changes were implemented following an assassination attempt.
Building a Road
The Thai government diligently worked to assimilate the Yunnan descendants into Thai society. In the 1980s, a crucial road was constructed to link Doi Mae Salong with the rest of the country. Furthermore, a campaign was initiated to establish tea production as an alternative to opium cultivation. Today, the descendants of the Kuomintang continue to uphold their rich Chinese traditions while living harmoniously.
Yunnan and Mae Salong Similarities
Having visited China recently, we were struck by the familiar aspects of Mae Salong that echoed its homeland. Mandarin is extensively spoken, and the town exhibits a distinct Chinese ambiance, showcasing many elements of Chinese heritage. Notably, the prevalent culture of tea drinking is a significant aspect of daily life here. Doi Mae Salong’s elevation at 1800 meters above sea level provides an ideal climate for tea cultivation.
This hidden gem is renowned for its Oolong Tea, with approximately 28,000 hectares of thriving tea plantations. Although it might not rival the scenic beauty of other renowned tea destinations, such as Sri Lanka or Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands, exploring the tea terraces in this Northern Thai village was indeed a delightful experience.
Meeting Locals of Doi Mae Salong
During our visit, we encountered a Hill Tribe Village where the elderly grandmother radiated joy with her love for photographs. As soon as she noticed us, she eagerly posed with her pipe, lighting up the atmosphere with her warmth.
Our guide Scott from Smiling Albino shared that he had previously visited this village and gifted her a photo, which she has cherished since. We promised to send Scott a picture for her, ensuring this beautiful connection continues.
Despite the linguistic barriers, the visit was heartwarming. This tribe predominantly speaks Akha, making communication challenging even for Scott, who is fluent in Thai. Nevertheless, we exchanged smiles and laughter with the locals, who were genuinely welcoming, grateful for our presence in one of the few Hill Tribe Villages in Thailand that have largely avoided mass tourism.
Walking Through the Tea Terraces of Thailand
Our journey through the farms and tea terraces lasted around three hours, culminating in the refreshing taste of ice-cold Chang Beers on the terrace of our hotel. As the sun set, we proceeded to the dining area, relishing a delicious dinner of Chinese and Thai fusion dishes accompanied by a lovely bottle of wine. Overall, it was a memorable day filled with rich experiences.