Cally Munchy’s Ebenezer Sogunro on Bringing African Dishes to the Masses
14 November 2023
The rotating restaurant residency at the Africa Centre has forged a path for enthusiasts of elevated African cuisine, spotlighting a selection of chefs who are transforming Sub-Saharan dishes. The latest addition to this vibrant culinary scene is Cally Munchy, a Pan-African concept eatery by British-Nigerian chef and entrepreneur Ebenezer Sogunro.
Michelin-trained Sogunro, who was born in Nigeria and moved to Greenwich during his childhood, began his culinary journey at the tender age of seven under the guidance of his grandmother. While other children played, he was immersed in the kitchen, mastering traditional Nigerian dishes. Sogunro pursued professional training at De Vere Academy and Pinsent Masons, where he recognized a significant gap in the representation of African and Caribbean cuisines within the fine dining sector.
Increasing Visibility for African Cuisine
“African cuisine hasn’t enjoyed the same recognition as various international cuisines such as Italian, Chinese, or Japanese,” says the 29-year-old chef. He emphasizes the implications of limited marketing and media exposure, which significantly restricts the growth of African food establishments. Furthermore, stereotypes and misconceptions surrounding African cuisine, such as the belief that it is overly spicy, often deter potential patrons from exploring its rich flavors.
A Culinary Mission
Determined to change this narrative, Sogunro initiated a food stall nine years ago, experimenting with fusion creations like jollof katsu curry. His ingenuity quickly garnered attention, leading well-known brands such as Nike to seek his catering services. Subsequently, he progressed to operating a food van in Westfield Stratford, marking it as the first African food outlet in that area. Inspired by influential culinary movements and collectives, Sogunro introduced Afro-Asian bao buns to his menu, including innovative offerings such as tempura prawn and efo (spinach stew) bao.
Unique Offerings at Cally Munchy
Sogunro’s inventive culinary twists caught the eye of the Africa Centre, resulting in an invitation for a six-month residency that commenced in August. Patrons can now savor his acclaimed “Shi-tuan sauce,” a captivating blend of Chinese Sichuan chili oil and the celebrated Ghanaian condiment, ‘shito,’ made with ginger, dried fish, prawns, tomatoes, garlic, peppers, and spices.
Envisioning Greater Accessibility
Sogunro envisions a future where African restaurants are as accessible as their Chinese or Indian counterparts, allowing consumers to find African ingredients readily within supermarkets, rather than limiting them to the world food aisle. He perceives African cuisine as a vital catalyst for cultural exchange, envisaging pop-up events and culinary tours to facilitate a deeper engagement with the narratives, music, and arts that accompany African food traditions.
Moreover, Sogunro emphasizes the importance of encouraging more chefs and food entrepreneurs to test the boundaries of this cuisine. Collaboration and innovation can lead to modernizations that appeal to a broader audience. “While many African restaurants in the UK beautifully preserve culinary heritage through traditional dishes, there is a pressing need for contemporary, upscale concepts—this is the mission of Cally Munchy,” he asserts.
Success and Expansion
Judging by the diverse clientele indulging in dishes like BBQ oxtail bao and suya wagyu at Cally Munchy, it is evident that Sogunro’s efforts are baring fruit. His dishes have received an enthusiastic response, leading to an extension of his residency from six months to one year—a triumph that deserves celebration.
