Discover Alpena, Michigan: An Outdoor Enthusiast’s Paradise
Michigan is hemmed in by water on three sides. Along the western shoreline, beach towns across Lake Michigan from Chicago teem with dune hikers, stand-up paddle boarders, and oenophiles sipping their way toward the grapevine-twined peninsulas of Traverse City. It’s no wonder a gem like Alpena can hide in plain sight on the other side of the state. But this tiny town tucked into northeast Michigan’s Thunder Bay packs a big punch.
To get to Alpena, choose from several woodsy two-lane highways – most notably, the US 23 Heritage Route, easily accessible for those departing from Detroit in search of outdoor adventure. From crackling frozen beaches in winter to iris-strewn wooded trails in summer, Alpena County welcomes nature lovers year-round. Here’s how to dive into Alpena’s under-the-radar great outdoors.
Hike through the Sunken Forest of Mystery Valley
Lush, wooded sinkholes dot the earth of northeast Michigan. Although most remain on private property, hikers can explore several sunken forests near Alpena. The atmosphere within the slumped terrain fosters flora and geological specimens not typically found in the region.
For an easy afternoon hike, set your sights on Mystery Valley (GPS 45.21225, -83.73243). Two trails, Earthcrack and Valley, cut through the collapsed landscape. Keep watch for the disappearing lake, which seasonally rises to the surface or drains into recessed sinkholes. In Mystery Valley, it’s common to find fossilized clam-like brachiopods left from the sea 400 million years ago.
Twelve miles north of Alpena, Rockport State Recreation Area offers a unique chance to take home ancient fossils you’ve unearthed yourself (visitors can legally haul home 25 pounds per year). For locals, Rockport is also a popular area for biking and hiking.
Brave Snow-Packed Trails on Fat-Tire Bikes or Snowshoes
Visiting Alpena in winter means embracing the cold. On average, a 6-inch blanket of snow insulates the county by New Year’s Day, and snowbanks remain for months. Rather than spending the entire weekend at locally-owned Austin Bros. Beer Company or warming up with coffee at the antler-decorated Cabin Creek Coffee, venture into the snowy world outside first.
At Besser Natural Area, snowshoe or bike along a 1-mile path through the woods to Bell, a logging village abandoned since 1915. Not much remains aside from a chimney and a few walls. However, local legend claims this ghost town is haunted. For a thrill, snowmobiling is a popular winter sport in northern Michigan. The Alpena Snowdrifters have navigated snowy pine forests (carefully avoiding deer) for over 50 years.
Glide Over Shipwrecks in Thunder Bay
Alpena visitors enjoy a front-row seat to the 99 shipwrecks documented in Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary. Up to 200 boats perished in the Lake Huron shipping lane known as Shipwreck Alley. To grasp the full perspective, visit the Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center before heading out.
There are multiple ways to observe the wreckage on a sunny day in Alpena. Families with young children often choose viewing via Alpena Shipwreck Tours’ glass-bottom boat, but it’s equally rewarding to explore the shipwrecks independently on a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) or kayak.
Explore Shipwreck Alley Underwater
During the summer, Alpena is filled with opportunities for aquatic adventures while immersing yourself in its history. Inland lakes provide a sanctuary for swimmers and sunbathers, while adventurous spirits seek the deep blue waters and sunken ships of Lake Huron.
Alpena County’s ‘Shipwreck Alley’ is open for underwater exploration no matter your experience level. Snorkeling tours and scuba diving equipment rentals are available at dive shops near the charming downtown area.
Stargaze at a Dark Sky Preserve
Headlands International Dark Sky Park (about a two-hour drive from Alpena) is Michigan’s only globally recognized dark sky preserve. Additionally, Alpena County boasts three state-designated locations: Rockport State Recreation Area, Thompson’s Harbor State Park, and Negwegon State Park. This trio of public lands offers magnificent nightly views of the Milky Way.
For convenient access from the parking lot along with picnic tables, visit Rockport State Recreation Area. Listen to the waves crashing against the rocks on a windy day or the sounds of nocturnal wildlife on a summer night.
Thompson’s Harbor State Park showcases its natural beauty in spring, when the Dwarf Lake Iris, Michigan’s state wildflower, bursts into bloom for those arriving before dusk. The park’s sand dunes are perfect for a summer picnic before reclining to watch the stars emerge.
Negwegon State Park is the most secluded Dark Sky Preserve among the three. Those visiting this 4,118-acre park should take extra caution when driving at night. Due to its lakeside location, several roads are sandy and require four-wheel drive. For those willing to trek into the backcountry, allow ample time for a hike through beautiful aspen-and-pine forests before settling along the shoreline to enjoy the night sky.
Whether visiting one or all three of the Dark Sky Preserves, Alpena County’s remote forests and expansive lake waters keep light pollution minimal all year round, enabling visitors to relax and enjoy cosmic spectacles like stunning meteor showers and the mesmerizing northern lights.
