The remote historical province of Trás-os-Montes – ‘beyond the mountains’ – is one of Portugal’s best-kept secrets. It’s the perfect destination for a slow road trip, going from one hidden taberna to another, discovering small villages where life is still serene.
Although it’s just a leisurely one-and-a-half-hour drive from Porto, this isolated province, close to the border with Galicia in Spain, feels like another world. The region of Alto Tâmega, which covers its northern part, is one of the most culturally and culinary diverse places in Portugal. Here, locals are self-sufficient, eating what they grow, baking their bread in ancient community ovens, and crafting sausages and ham, which they smoke above kitchen fireplaces. It’s one of the few places left in southern Europe where travelers can sample the authentic local flavors in small tabernas, often hidden within humble stone houses.
In 2004, the Alto Tâmega region established a culinary network to preserve its traditions. Today, this network consists of 14 taverns spread across the municipalities of Boticas, Chaves, Montalegre, Ribeira de Pena, Valpaços, and Vila Pouca de Aguiar. Renowned Portuguese chef Vítor Adão, born in this region, serves as a project curator and ambassador. Though he owns the famous Plano restaurant in Lisbon, he remains deeply connected to his roots, possessing extensive knowledge of Alto Tâmega’s produce.
Chefs across Portugal consider potatoes from this region to be the best in the country—almost like a delicacy. These potatoes often grow next to vast bodies of water, such as the Albufeira do Alto Rabagão dam, where tiny, medieval villages like Vilarinha lie in scenic harmony with crystal-clear waters. The winding roads along the lake lead to more rural villages, perfect for a slow road trip.
Casa do Pedro
Just a 10-minute drive from the lake through a desolate landscape of rocks and wild herb bushes sits the tiny village of Vilarinho Seco. At taberna Casa do Pedro, Dona Ana Pereira and her husband Pedro serve the most traditional local food to every diner who arrives. The restaurant operates in a 300-year-old stone house belonging to the couple, showcasing characterful wooden balconies and a small terrace crafted from ancient stones that narrate a simple life filled with hearty food. The aroma of firewood used for cooking fills the air, especially during the long, snowy winters.
Pedro has a small adega in the back, stocked with wooden barrels for house wine, while hams and other cured meats hang from the ceiling. Every produce item used in the dishes at Casa do Pedro is grown right next door, except for rice and cod. The recipes are regional and depend on seasonal availability. ‘I learned from my mother,’ says Ana. In the olden days, dishes like cabidela rice were made with wild duck. Besides this specialty, their menu includes stewed and oven-baked goat, Transmontana-style feijoada (bean stew), and stuffed cod—all dishes made according to Barroso tradition. Here, innovation takes a backseat to time-honored family recipes.
Casa de Padornelos
Another slow drive along rural roads leads to the village of Padornelos, home to fewer than 130 people and age-old stone dwellings centered around natural fountains and reservoirs. This hamlet gained fame thanks to the historical novel Terra Fria (‘cold land’) by Ferreira de Castro, illustrating the harsh living conditions of the 1930s in these villages of north-eastern Trás-os-Montes.
Padornelos is also the village where home cook Aldina Moura warmly welcomes visitors, serving them delicious rustic food. Aldina, along with a group of elderly women, prepares everything in the kitchen before dawn. Her husband Ricardo brings in firewood for the gigantic hearth at the center of the room, around which diners are served endless plates of hearty fare. The dishes include barrosão stew with pork, pumpkin, homemade chorizo, and farinheira (a traditional sausage), slow-cooked to perfection over three hours. Vegetables like cabbage, carrots, and potatoes come straight from their garden. Blood sausages are cooked separately to maintain their distinct flavor.
Casa de Souto Velho
The R311 meanders through unspoiled countryside from the compact city of Boticas to the small village of Souto Velho. This mountainous region is filled with pine forests and rocky plateaus, making it nearly impossible to overtake another car on these winding roads. Another well-hidden spot for local culinary delights is the taberna Casa de Souto Velho. Eufrásia and her husband Osvaldo Almeida work tirelessly to produce everything on their menu. Behind their old house, an expansive vegetable garden thrives, while their alheiras (traditional pork and bread sausages) are lovingly smoked in-house.
The taberna overlooks the lush greenery of the Rio Tâmega, featuring a beautiful terrace with a serene view. The cozy interior boasts vintage wood paneling and tables dressed in classic white linen. Often, dishes are served in exquisite matte-black ceramic ware from Bisalhães, with everything from dried meat to rabbit stew made from scratch. ‘The only items that aren’t produced here are the salt and rice,’ notes Dona Eufrásia. Indulging in a meal here would be incomplete without sampling one of their exquisite cakes or puddings.
Ti’Ana da Eira
Driving to the small village of Parada do Outeiro in Peneda-Gerês National Park feels like traversing through another world. This scenic journey leads to Taberna Ti’Ana da Eira, perhaps one of the most remote and secretive dining spots in Portugal. At the end of the road lies a charming stone house with modern interiors where culinary traditions are still upheld as in the days of Aunt Ana. ‘We spent hours talking beside the fireplace,’ remarks Bruno Pereira, one of the owners. Driven by his passion for the village where his mother Lúcia was born, Bruno decided to transform the place into ‘this humble house’, part of the Tabernas do Alto Tâmega network.
Lúcia is always busy in the downstairs kitchen, completing a stew or grilling succulent Barrosã meat. Garlic is a staple here, as nearly every dish includes a generous portion of it. Dining at Ti’Ana da Eira delivers an explosion of rich and honest flavors, all derived from local ingredients. ‘It’s all made with products from the region, even from the village,’ states Lúcia, who exudes joy in managing her culinary creation. Guests can enjoy stunning panoramas of the Paradela dam and Peneda-Gerês National Park from the charming patio or through expansive windows.
After yet another fulfilling long lunch, it becomes evident that kindness and generosity are at the heart of road tripping through this region, as locals eagerly share their extraordinary assortment of local dishes and wines. The seclusion of these villages, combined with their simple lifestyles, keeps the legacy of popular gastronomy alive within the tiny kitchens, adegas, and smokeries of the warm-hearted people of Alto Tâmega.
Where to Stay
A delightful option is Casa da Eira Longa in the quaint village of Vilar near Boticas. This collection of old stone houses offers comfortable rooms for connecting with a slow-paced village life, complemented by a beautiful swimming pool and delicious homemade breakfast.
For those preferring more refined accommodations, the Vidago Palace Hotel in the town of Vidago provides a luxurious experience. Constructed in the style of an English country house, this hotel originally opened as a royal palace in 1910. Guests can delight in a sparkling ballroom now converted into a restaurant, alongside an 18-hole golf course and a sophisticated spa.
Where to Eat
All the tabernas mentioned can be found on the Tabernas do Alto Tâmega website. Dining at these establishments offers an authentic taste of local cuisine.
