Preserving Ancient Traditions in Japan’s Nara and Wakayama Prefectures

Explore Japan: A Four-Day Cultural Itinerary in Nara and Wakayama

From religious practices to handicrafts, sake to architecture, Japan’s rich tapestry of traditions is regarded with reverence around the world. This cultural pilgrimage through Nara and Wakayama prefectures offers a unique opportunity to disconnect from the stresses of modern life, reconnect with nature, and take a glimpse into the past to fill the present with a sense of peace and clarity.

Neighboring prefectures Nara and Wakayama are part of the seven prefectures that comprise the Kansai area of Western Japan. This four-day itinerary takes visitors through the lush, magical forests of the Kii Mountain range to some of the country’s most venerated shrines and temples, as well as many other traditional cultural experiences: sampling sake (rice wine), making washi paper, and dining on kaiseki cuisine. Osaka makes an ideal base for exploring both Nara and Wakayama prefectures, easily accessible via JR, Kintetsu, and Nankai trains.

Day 1: The Ancient City of Sakurai – Shrines, Somen Noodles, and Sake

Start your journey in the historical city of Sakurai, 40 minutes by train from Tsuruhashi Station in Osaka (Kintetsu-Osaka Line, ¥640 – about $6 USD). Sakurai is an easy town to explore on foot (or by bike, if you don’t plan to drink sake). From the station, head to the venerable Ohmiwa Jinja Shrine, one of Japan’s oldest shrines, at the foot of Mount Miwa, about a 25-minute walk from the station.

At Ohmiwa Jinja Shrine, uniquely, the deity is believed to be enshrined in Mount Miwa rather than the shrine itself, so prayers are directed to the mountain. Ōmononushi, the god believed to have created Japan, imbues this area with enormous spiritual significance. Hanging from the eaves of the impressive worship hall is a sugidama, a ball of cedar branches hung at sake breweries and shops – Ōmononushi is also known as the deity of sake.

At this magical-feeling shrine, which is surrounded by nature, including a stately 500-year-old cedar tree, it’s also common to see Shinto priests conducting their daily rituals. A short walk to the nearby Saijinja Shrine, which features natural spring water from Mount Miwa claimed to have healing properties, is essential for this visit.

A 15-minute walk north will bring you to the 170-year-old somen noodle shop, Senjutei Somen Chaya. While ramen, soba, and udon might be the most well-known Japanese noodles outside Japan, somen are traditional handmade noodles favored by locals. Sakurai is the home of somen noodles, known as Miwa somen, dating back 1,200 years when they were first made at Ohmiwa Jinja Shrine by a priest’s son.

Made from flour and water, strands of somen are long, delicately thin, and snow-white. At Senjutei Somen Chaya, somen are served in an assortment of traditional and creative ways. Chilled somen, the most common way to eat it, are arranged in dainty bundles on a bamboo platter, served with a soy sauce-based dipping sauce and condiments like spring onions and myoga (Japanese ginger); there are even different varieties of somen to try – green (accented with matcha) and yellow (flavored with egg yolk).

Day 2: Step Back in Time at Imaicho

Imaicho is a picturesque, beautifully preserved historic town in northwestern Nara prefecture. It began as a temple town for the nearby Shonenji Temple, then flourished as a wealthy merchant town. The streets are lined with elegant machiya (traditional wooden townhouses) dating back to the Edo period. Several of these are open to visitors, such as the Imanishi Family Residence, the former home of the town’s most powerful family dating back to 1650. The entire town is akin to a living museum, perfect for wandering streets and alleyways, observing traditional architecture, browsing for handicrafts, and soaking up the atmosphere in a quaint cafe.

Near the center of Imaicho, Tama is a charming farm-to-table restaurant that focuses on local ingredients cooked in a French style. The restaurant is set in a renovated machiya, offering a sophisticated blend of traditional and contemporary Japanese architecture. Both lunch and dinner are omakase (set menus) featuring colorful, artfully plated dishes, including local grilled sanma (Pacific saury), new onion potage with vinegar jelly, Yamato pork sausage wrapped in cabbage, and Nara strawberry soup with white chocolate gelato.

Day 3: Mount Yoshino, Washi Paper, and a Traditional Japanese Inn

The Yoshino area holds profound spiritual and cultural significance in Japan, being part of the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. It’s also one of the most renowned places in Japan for cherry blossoms. To reach Yoshino from Osaka, take the Kintetsu-Minamiosaka Line, the Kintetsu-Limited Express, or Rapid Express from Osaka-Abenobashi Station to Yoshino Station (70-90 minutes, ¥990-1,510). From Yoshino Station, Fukunishi Washi Honpo is easily accessible by taxi, taking approximately 15 minutes.

Washi is traditional Japanese paper that is revered for its elegance and natural finish, used for various purposes from shoji screen doors to stationery. The paper crafted at Fukunishi Washi Honpo has a history of around 1,300 years, with the craft passed down through generations to the now sixth-generation paper artisan, Masayuki Fukunishi. The abundance of kuzu (Japanese mulberry trees) for the paper fibers and pristine local water create an idyllic setting for this craft. Visitors can try their hand at papermaking (¥1,500, about $14 USD, reservations required) and purchase washi souvenirs.

Take a cab to a nearby ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) to leave your luggage and stroll to Yoshino Shimo Senbon to explore the main street, where numerous little stores sell traditional foods and local handicrafts. Look for kakinoha sushi at Hyoutarou – sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves, an ancient method of preservation, and Kuzu mochi – unique traditional sweets from the area made with arrowroot starch. Stop by the stylish cafe Nakai Shunpudo to see mochi being made and to enjoy magnificent mountain views.

Day 4: Exploring Majestic Koyasan

Early risers can head to Kinpusen-ji Temple to observe morning otsutome (worship service), which incorporates taikō drumming and the sounding of the horagai (giant conch), providing a spiritual start to the day that sets the pace for exploring the majestic alpine temple complex of Koyasan.

Start early by taking the train from Yoshino Station for a one-hour journey to Hashimoto Station. From there, take the charming Tenku sightseeing train (reservations required), a 40-minute ride to Gokurakubashi Station. The Tenku sightseeing train features large windows, perfect for observing the lush rural landscapes. From Gokurakubashi Station, the cable car ride to Koyasan Station offers exhilarating views up a steep, densely forested incline.

In the 9th century, Buddhist monk Kōbō Daishi Kukai established the Danjō Garan temple complex dedicated to Shingon Buddhism. It’s a deeply spiritual, tranquil, and enchanting place where all visitors are welcome. The grand Daimon Gate is the first attraction and official entrance to the temple complex, providing a majestic view especially at sunset.

Aside from the Daimon Gate, key points of interest include the Kongobu-ji Head Temple, the headquarters of Koyasan Shingon Buddhism. Visitors can enter to admire the elaborately carved temple details, elegant painted fusuma screens, and the impressive 21,000-square-foot rock garden.

Okuno-in is an expansive and breathtaking cemetery adorned with towering cedar trees and moss-covered grounds weaving between around 200,000 graves and monuments. It also houses the mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi Kukai, said to be in eternal meditation and still acts as a teaching ground. Koyasan is relatively flat, easy to explore on foot, and provides a thoroughly enriching experience of quietude, contemplation, abundant nature, and the calming presence of monks in saffron robes.

Pause for lunch at Kadohama Goma-tofu Sohonpo, a specialist in sesame (goma) tofu, a quintessential food of Japanese Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. Goma-tofu sohonpo supplies nearby temples, including Kongobu-ji Head Temple, and is built around culinary traditions spanning 1,200 years. Enjoy goma-dofu in a sunlit-filled dining room or on the terrace during warmer months. Though sesame-based desserts are available, the kaiseki course comes highly recommended and features traditional dishes such as vegetable tempura and konjac sashimi.

Feeling stimulated, nourished, and fulfilled, return to Osaka via the train and Nankai Koyasan line to Shin-Imamiya Station or extend your visit for an enlightening overnight stay at a shukubo (temple lodging).

Note: There are COVID-19 measures implemented across Nara and Wakayama, including ventilation, temperature checks, limits on guest numbers at temples and other venues, as well as hand sanitizer stations and face masks. Thus, when you’re ready to travel again, you can be assured that your trip will be as safe as possible.


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