Unforgettable Antarctica Cruise: Witnessing a Solar Eclipse

The unreal experience of an eclipse of the sun during a dream-like trip to the seventh continent.

The most exciting trips often combine a visit to a dreamed-of destination with a unique event. Add a dose of pandemic-era jeopardy and 200 intrepid travelers, and the stage was set. For the guests on the maiden voyage of Ocean Victory, this was such a trip — a visit to Antarctica, the seventh continent, coinciding with that most beautiful of celestial events, a total solar eclipse.

I was lucky enough to be lecturing about the eclipse on board to a ship consisting of intrepid travelers, eclipse-chasers, and Virgin Galactic ticket holders. It was truly the trip of a lifetime.

South Georgia and the End of the World

Arriving in Ushuaia, Argentina — the southernmost town in the world that calls itself El fin del mundo (the end of the world) — still felt unreal. To get to the jetty where the ship, the Ocean Victory, was moored required “bubble” bus transfers and COVID-19 tests. Unfortunately, some guests did not make it to the jetty. That’s the reality of pandemic-era travel; consequently, COVID-19 tests for all guests were required every three days during the 14-day journey.

The cruise began with a 1,600-mile journey to South Georgia, a sub-Antarctic island rarely visited by cruise ships in November. A range of impressive lectures highlighted IAATO guidelines on how to leave only footprints on the Antarctic continent. We had to scrub our boots and refrain from touching anything when we eventually landed by inflatable zodiacs at the rusting whaling station of Grytviken. A visit to the grave of legendary Antarctic explorer Ernest Shackleton was memorable not only for its location, but also for the aggressive Antarctic fur seals fighting all around the tiny cemetery.

If Grytviken was intriguing, then Gold Harbor was absolutely breathtaking. Standing on a narrow beach surrounded by 250,000 king and gentoo penguins, Antarctic fur seals, and massive elephant seals — not to mention three glaciers towering above us — was a heart-stopping wonder. Some guests were moved to tears, while others fell silent. Everyone felt the weight of our incredible privilege.

The Solar Eclipse Experience

With South Georgia explored, it was time to sail into the “path of totality,” where the moon’s shadow would sweep across at precisely 5:04 a.m. on Saturday, December 4, 2021. While we anticipated that the sky would darken during the eclipse, we were uncertain whether we would see a clear view of the “hole in the sky” and the sun’s extraordinary corona. Unfortunately, a cyclone prevented us from going south, but the further north we went, the lower the eclipsed sun appeared on the horizon. Therefore, pinpoint accuracy was crucial.

The forecasts indicated a gap in the clouds to the north, prompting us to race towards it. However, forecasts can be unreliable in the Scotia Sea. We stood on deck under clouds as the moon’s shadow enveloped us. The temperature, already around freezing, noticeably dropped along with the light, as we aligned with the moon and the sun for a minute and 35 seconds. Although it wasn’t the experience we had hoped for, it remained a profoundly bizarre feeling to witness something of such enormity. “It was a beautiful experience. I got goosebumps all over my body during totality,” said Lucas J. Mudskipper, 59, an eclipse chaser from San Francisco. “Just as amazing as totality was coming out of it; it was crazy, and it happened so fast.”

Interestingly, not everyone on board was an eclipse chaser. “I didn’t come for the eclipse; it was simply a coincidence. However, I met so many people who experienced significant transformations after witnessing an eclipse,” said Alessandra Capurro, 24, from near Florence, Italy. “Seeing the darkness was impressive. Even with the clouds, it felt as if someone could close the sky and draw a curtain over the sun. It didn’t feel real.” That sentiment seemed true of the entire trip.

Conquering the Seventh Continent

Minutes after the eclipse concluded, the captain turned the ship around and raced south. The goal, of course, was to step onto the Antarctic Peninsula. Would we reach there in time to make a landing while dodging the cyclone that obstructed our path? The captain successfully balanced both objectives, and after visiting the Adelie penguins on the remote and seldom-visited Heroina Island and Paulet Island, we sailed between tabular icebergs at 63° south and awoke just offshore Brown Bluff.

This was mainland Antarctica. We duly set foot on Antarctica proper, completing our journey. We had witnessed numerous wonderful sights along the way; however, the fleeting sight of a gentoo penguin chick, just hatched and being fed by its parent, was a magical moment. It truly eclipsed all others.

Aboard the Ocean Victory

A modern ship on its maiden voyage — thanks to COVID-19 delays — the Ocean Victory has an unusual appearance. Featuring an X-Bow design with hydraulic stabilizers, it adeptly glided through large waves, maintaining a reasonable degree of stability (though the two nights of 11-meter waves in the Scotia Sea will remain unforgettable). With 93 staterooms, 90% with balconies, the Ocean Victory boasts the lowest environmental impact in the industry.

Planning a Trip Around the Next Total Solar Eclipse

Chasing total solar eclipses is an incredible way to explore the world while providing yourself with a fixed schedule rather than a vague bucket list that never gets checked. A cruise ship may be an excellent way to witness the next totality on April 8, 2023. However, instead of the frigid waters of Antarctica, this solar eclipse will take place over a small portion of Western Australia’s Coral Coast. Exmouth Peninsula — with a population of 2,000 — is renowned for its stunning beaches and opportunities to swim with whale sharks. Fly-in, fly-out itineraries will likely also be available, including even more adventurous options that encompass a small area of Timor Leste and West Papua.

Jamie Carter is the editor of WhenIsTheNextEclipse.com and was lecturing on board the Ocean Victory.