A Culinary Journey Through Athens
In our A Total Trip series, our travel writers document what they spent on a recent getaway. In this edition, Austin Bush takes us on a mouthwatering five-day trip to Athens, delving into the Greek capital’s culinary scene.
Pre-trip Spending
Accommodation: I booked four nights in a small, simple Airbnb in central Athens’s Exarcheia area (€156), located within walking distance of most of the markets, bars and restaurants I wanted to visit.
On the Ground
Friday
Airport Transfer: I arrived in Athens at around 6pm. Greek dining hours meant I was in no rush to get into town, so I took the airport train (€9), a trip of about 45 minutes.
Dinner: After dropping my bags at my room, I walked across town to my dinner destination, Ilia’s Haunt, one of Athens’s legendary “chop shops,” which specializes in grilled meat, especially lamb chops. I ordered 500g of thin, smoky chops, bread, and a half liter of house wine (€24.90). After dinner, I visited Galaxy, a bar that opened in 1972, where I capped off the night with a negroni (€10).
Total: €43.90
Saturday
Breakfast: I started my day at Stani, located a short walk from my room, with a breakfast of rich, thick Greek-style sheep’s milk yogurt drizzled with honey and walnuts, paired with an espresso (€6.40).
Activities: After breakfast, I explored the weekly Kallidromiou Farmers’ Market, featuring a variety of olives and fresh juices (free). I enjoyed gritty, unfiltered Greek coffee (€2.50) at Mouria, a century-old kafeneio. I continued my wandering through Athens’s modern and ancient architecture, visiting Monastiraki Square (free) and downing two more Greek-style coffees (€6) while admiring the Acropolis.
Lunch: I headed to Fatsio, just west of the city center, where I ordered thick slices of eggplant baked with minced veal and swordfish served with boiled vegetables, all accompanied by house white and kataïfi, a delicious Greek dessert (€24.50).
Dinner: After a nap, I visited Heteroclito, a wine bar with an impressive menu. I savored two glasses (€11.50) of Greek white wine before enjoying a Cretan dinner at I Kriti (€35.20).
Total: €86.10
Sunday
Breakfast: I returned to Stani for a slab of sheep’s milk butter in honey, bread, and a double Greek coffee (€5.40).
Activities: With beautiful weather, I wandered through the charming neighborhood of Anafiotika near the Acropolis (free) and enjoyed sweeping views from Areopagus Hill (free). I ascended to the Acropolis (€10) and bought a five-day transport pass (€8.20) to explore outside of the city.
Lunch: I ventured west to O Leloudas for lunch, enjoying a simple meal of white beans, feta drizzled with olive oil, and house wine (€13). After returning to my room, I took a nap.
Dinner: In the evening, I visited Louis Cafe where I learned how to enjoy ouzo mixed with lemon juice (€9), followed by late-night souvlaki from O Elvis (€5.60).
Total: €51.20
Monday
Activity: I decided to explore the port city of Piraeus. After arriving, I enjoyed breakfast at Stani (€11.30) and spent the day wandering scenic bays and enjoying coffee (€4.40).
Lunch: At Yperokeanio in Piraeus, I feasted on fried sardines, chickpea salad, and boiled greens with tsipouro (€30.50). After lunch, I returned to Athens.
Drinks: Instead of another meal, I opted for a glass of Greek Pét-Nat at Tannin My Love (€9.40).
Total: €55.60
Tuesday
Breakfast: I started my day with loukoumades from Krinos (€5.70).
Activities: In my last morning, I explored the city’s central market (free), enjoying more coffee at Mokka (€3.23). I also engaged in a mini shopping spree for dried goods (€12.20) and a feta-stuffed pie at Ariston (€1.60).
Lunch: I concluded my trip at Diporto, a local eatery where I shared lunch with locals, consisting of split peas, salad, and house wine (free).
Total: €22.73
The Final Tally
Overall Spend: On the ground (€259.53) + accommodation for four nights (€156) = €415.53 (US$448.23)
