Local expert Ksenia Elzes was born and raised in St Petersburg, residing there for almost 30 years. While Petersburgers may joke about the weather, claiming the sun appears only one week per year, Ksenia passionately counters that notion. She takes immense pride in being a part of a city renowned for its breathtaking beauty and rich history.
Ksenia believes that St Petersburg is a city that entices visitors to return, and as an iBestTravel Local, she strives to showcase this exceptional European travel destination.
When I have friends in town… I start with the classic sights: the Hermitage, famous for its stunning artistic treasures, the Russian Museum, which houses an impressive collection of Russian avant-garde art, and the historical Mariinsky Theatre, a world-renowned ballet venue. After immersing ourselves in culture, we explore St Petersburg’s vibrant gastronomic scene. One of my preferred spots is Duo Gastrobar, a cozy joint where reservations are wise. The head chefs craft remarkable dishes using fresh, local ingredients – I highly recommend the squash spread and catfish with burnt cauliflower cream, followed by prunes with salted caramel for dessert.
For great city views… I recommend Bellevue Brasserie at Kempinski Hotel Moika 22. This rooftop restaurant boasts expansive windows, and during summer, the outdoor terrace opens up. You will witness breathtaking sights, including the Hermitage from different perspectives, along with the golden domes of St Petersburg’s churches and cathedrals from a 360-degree viewpoint.
For a lively night out… my friends and I often kick things off with cocktails at Daiquiri (dbar.ru) or Poltory Komnaty (facebook.com/poltory.komnaty). If we’re in the mood for wine, we opt for trendy wine bars like Vinostudia. Following drinks, we dance at Tanzploshchadka (facebook.com/tancploshadka), featuring DJs from around the globe who primarily play house music. This venue also offers delicious street food—think Alsatian tarte flambée and burgers, allowing you to eat and enjoy the party simultaneously. Dumskaya street has a playful atmosphere and remains popular among the younger crowd.
Heading to Rubinshteyna ulitsa is a great choice… as it is Russia’s longest restaurant street, offering a variety of options. One of my go-to spots is Vinny Shkaf (alldaywine.ru), where the food is remarkable, and the wines even better. They emphasize local ingredients and craft creative dishes. Sharing three to four starters is ideal, such as herring on bread with cranberries. Their catchy slogan, ‘Drink wine and don’t give up!’ fits the vibe. The knowledgeable staff can assist with the wine list. Before visiting the Theatre of Europe, it’s a necessary pit stop. As a theatre enthusiast, this is my favorite venue in the city, and I appreciate that the best performances come with English subtitles.
If you enjoy haute cuisine… but prefer a laid-back atmosphere, E.M. Restaurant (emrestaurant.ru) is perfect for you. Operating only a few days per week for dinner, the setting is intimate, featuring only a few tables. One waiter and two chefs prepare and serve your meal right in front of you. The menu changes monthly, and you can preview it online.
For inexpensive meals… try Marketplace canteen and Obed Bufet cafeteria, situated conveniently on Nevsky Prospekt. They have an extensive menu – I often enjoy wok dishes or soups, especially the classic Russian borscht, which is delightful at both spots. You can also order takeout to enjoy outdoors.
For the best shopping experience… I recommend visiting the Galeria, the largest shopping mall in the city. On weekends, a market often opens on the ground floor, showcasing small local brands, perfect for finding unique souvenirs or clothing. To avoid crowds, I advise going on weekdays in the morning. Another gem is ETAGI, where I usually shop for design and art books.
A typical weekend includes… preparing syrniki—traditional Russian cottage-cheese pancakes—for my husband and daughter for breakfast. You can find syrniki at almost any breakfast spot in the city. If it’s a pleasant day, we bike to one of the city’s parks for a picnic. If you’re in the city center, don’t miss New Holland island, which is now a cultural hotspot. For a touch of glamour and a chance to indulge, I recommend the famous Sunday brunch at Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, said to be the best in town.
I have a 1.5-year-old daughter… and I’m pleased to share that St Petersburg has become increasingly child-friendly. Almost every café or restaurant now features a menu for children, focusing on wholesome options rather than just fast food. Moreover, each major shopping mall, like Galeria, hosts amusement centers and parks, ensuring hours of entertainment for kids.
One challenge I face in St Petersburg… is the traffic. While I love driving, the metro often proves to be ten times faster.
When I want to escape the city… I prepare sandwiches and hot tea, grab a book or an iPod, and head to Park Alexandria in Peterhof. It’s a serene spot ideal for lying on the grass and enjoying the clouds. However, if the weather doesn’t cooperate, exploring one of the imperial palaces is a fantastic alternative—like the Catherine Palace in Pushkin or the Grand Palace in Peterhof.
I know I’m a Petersburger because… I take immense pride in my city. A few months ago, I assisted an older lady in crossing Nevsky Prospekt. Yes, it’s a cliché—but I’ll never forget her words: ‘Thank you, dear, you are a real Petersburger.’ This heartfelt compliment truly touched me.
