iBestTravel Local Heather Mason moved to Johannesburg in 2010. Enchanted, she soon fell in love with Melville – the quirky, tree-lined suburb where she now lives – and later the gritty inner city, with its coffee houses, evolving foodie scene and hidden pockets of art, culture and music. She doesn’t think she’ll ever leave.
A typical weekend involves… at least one coffee date. The number of indie coffee shops in Johannesburg – many serving fair trade and single-origin African coffees – has exploded recently. My favorite new discovery is Flynn Coffee, hidden amidst a jumble of furniture warehouses in the northern suburb of Kramerville.
Visit Maboneng on a Sunday, the ideal day for this regenerated section of downtown bustling with locals and visitors alike. Maboneng hosts a lively Sunday market, Market on Main, complemented by an array of shops, restaurants, galleries, and street vendors.
When I’m up for a big night out… I reserve a table at the Orbit jazz club in Braamfontein. This venue is the best spot for live jazz in town, featuring top local and international artists performing nearly every night. The club creates a locals-only vibe and offers a decent menu. My last visit was to see BCUC, an ‘afro-psychedelic’ band from Soweto.
For cheap eats… I enjoy Fordsburg, Johannesburg’s historically Indian neighborhood located west of downtown. This area is filled with numerous restaurants serving inexpensive and delicious curries, and it boasts a bustling weekend market at the intersection of Mint Rd and Albertina Sisulu Rd. The Mint Rd Market is perfect for indulging in spicy chicken on a stick or freshly pressed sugarcane juice.
The Oriental Plaza, also in Fordsburg, features World of Samoosas (the South African interpretation of samosas, with two o’s instead of one). A dozen samoosas can be purchased for less than R60 (US$5), and it’s the sole establishment in town selling sweet coconut samoosas.
One thing I dislike about Johannesburg is… Parktown prawns. These massive, cricket-like insects (longer than a man’s thumb) exist nowhere on earth except Johannesburg. During rainstorms, they invade homes and—while harmless—can instill fear in even the most stoic Jo’burger. With a tough exterior, Parktown prawns are virtually impossible to kill. Attempting to eliminate one may result in an unpleasant spray of smelly brown liquid. They also possess the ability to jump.
When I want to get out of the city… I head to Magaliesburg, home to one of the world’s oldest mountain ranges, located an hour northwest of Johannesburg. There is a range of excellent self-catering lodges in the area – my favorite is Stone Hill. The quirky little town features an ancient train station and unique shops, while the nearby Mountain Sanctuary park is ideal for hiking enthusiasts.
I know I’m a Jo’burger because… I complain about the weather when there’s absolutely no reason to do so. I have come to expect meteorological perfection. Johannesburg may be in Africa, but its high altitude and low humidity result in pleasantly warm summers and cool winters. Winters are dry, experiencing little to no rain between May and September. In contrast, summers bring refreshing, dramatic thunderstorms. The lack of central heating in the city can lead to some chilly weeks in July and August, yet otherwise the weather is ideal. Complaining about it is quite absurd.
My favourite places in the city… include the Melville Koppies, a nature reserve in Melville with million-year-old rocks and impressive skyline views. I love the vibe in Linden, another leafy suburb featuring a perfect combination of coolness and quirk. Check out Tonic, a new Linden gin bar, and Cheese Gourmet, which offers the best local cheeses in the country. I also admire the Cathedral of Christ the King. Because the cathedral is situated in Hillbrow, a notorious downtown neighborhood known for crime, almost no one ventures there. However, the cathedral remains impeccably preserved, and its wall-to-wall stained glass windows are awe-inspiring.
For a great view of the city… 5101, a contemporary events venue in Ponte City, offers the best vantage point in the area. Ponte City is an architectural marvel—a cylinder-shaped skyscraper with a hollow core—and stands as the highest residential building in Africa. Located on the second-to-top floor, 5101 provides stunning views that extend over the densely packed Hillbrow apartments, all the way to Magaliesburg.
Another great option is the Top of Africa at the Carlton Centre. As the tallest building in Africa, it’s positioned right in the heart of downtown Johannesburg. Despite the 50th-floor viewing deck showing signs of wear, it delivers breathtaking views in every direction for just R15 (under US$2). The vibrant shopping mall on the lower floors of the Carlton Centre is also worth exploring.
What I love most about Jo’burg… is that it can be a challenging city to understand. The resources available for tourists are limited. However, this perceived weakness transforms into a strength as I continue to uncover whole hidden segments of the city, filled with quirky shops, secret coffee bars, and abandoned buildings adorned with graffiti. My recent exploration has led me to 13 Eloff St downtown, where I discovered an impressive collection of African cassette tapes and CDs at affordable prices.
