Your Guide to Traditional Irish Music in Dublin
Say ‘Temple Bar’ to any Dubliner and watch their eyes roll back into their head – the quaintly-cobbled and bar-filled district is often seen as a tourist trap, but you might protest, wanting to hear some live music. However, they may scoff and tell you that’s not where real music is found.
So what is ‘real’ traditional Irish music – and, more importantly – how can you experience it in Dublin? Here’s your insider’s guide to the best places to go and how to enjoy a traditional Irish session.
Understanding Traditional Irish Music
If you witnessed Ireland’s reaction to Ed Sheeran’s ‘Galway Girl’, you know that complaints about inauthentic Irish music are common. At its core, there’s a distinction between traditional Irish music—rooted in personal, local, and oral traditions—and modern genres labeled “trad,” “Irish folk,” “Celtic,” or simply “Irish” music.
Seán Ó Riada was a pivotal figure in the establishment of a modern ceili group in the 1960s, aiming to preserve folk traditions amidst the influences of mass media from the United States and the United Kingdom. His disdain for the accordion, calling the instrument “the greatest abomination of all,” highlights the ongoing debate around authenticity in Irish music.
Where to Experience Traditional Irish Music in Dublin
Despite common misconceptions, you’re more likely to hear contemporary pop hits in an average Dublin pub than traditional harp music. Therefore, let’s explore where to find the Irish music you’re seeking.
The Cobblestone
The Cobblestone pub in Dublin’s Smithfield neighborhood is renowned for traditional music. They host sessions every night of the week and feature some of the best living trad musicians. It provides a warm atmosphere, welcoming locals and tourists alike.
The owner, Tom Mulligan, is a skilled musician and suggests numerous venues outside the city, such as Cryan’s pub in Carrick-on-Shannon and Tigh Coili’s in Galway City. He describes the atmosphere at The Cobblestone as “very relaxed,” fostering an environment where patrons can join in the fun if they wish.
Pipers Corner
Visit Pipers Corner on Marlborough Street for sessions on Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays. The exterior features a stunning banner in honor of Séamus Ennis, a legendary piper. This establishment is a collaboration between piper Seán Potts and publican Eamonn Briody, which emphasizes the importance of listening and respecting the musicians.
O’Donoghue’s
O’Donoghue’s on Baggot Street is another storied venue, which has hosted traditional music sessions for over fifty years. The atmosphere here captures the vibrant energy of Ireland’s folk revival during the 1960s. The pub has even been featured in media, showcasing the music that transcends generations.
Experience Dublin’s Vibrant Music Festivals
One of the best opportunities to dive into Irish traditional music is at Trad Fest, held every January in the iconic Temple Bar area. This festival showcases a diverse representation of what constitutes “trad,” from classic forms to contemporary interpretations.
Additionally, if you find yourself in Dublin in June, the National Concert Hall’s “Tradition Now” series and the Fleadh Cheoil are remarkable events for both experts and novices to immerse themselves in Irish music culture.
Understanding the Evolution of Ireland’s Music Scene
While it may seem strange, attempting to define “real” trad can lessen the joy of the experience. Since the folk revival of the 1950s and 60s, numerous hybrid genres have emerged from traditional Irish music, illustrating its ability to adapt and thrive.
Dublin’s music scene during St. Patrick’s Day showcases the city’s vibrant offerings, with unique events such as online sessions and community gatherings enriching the festival.
As Anna McGowan, Interim Director at the Patrick’s Festival notes, “Traditional music is as much a social phenomenon as a musical one.” Its communal nature invites diverse interpretations, fostering innovation within this cherished art form.
In conclusion, embracing the rich cultural heritage of traditional Irish music in Dublin involves open-mindedness and a joyful spirit. Enjoy the vibrant sessions, engage with the talented musicians, and celebrate the evolving landscape of Irish music.