Hearty soups, crowd-free bike rides, and plenty of aperitivi await in the colder months.
6 April 2024
Marina Serena Cacciapuoti is the co-founder and creative director of Italy Segreta, an online magazine that explores the hidden corners of the country and provides an insider’s perspective on Italian culture, travel, food, and lifestyle. Marina grew up between Rome and Florence before moving to New York in 2014, where she worked as a photo editor and designer at Vice, Condé Nast Traveller, and Hearst magazines. In 2020, she returned to Italy and launched Italy Segreta with her twin brother, Cesare. Here, she tells us the best things to do in Florence once the crowds have disappeared.
Best Times to Visit Florence without Crowds
Yes! The best period to explore Florence with fewer travellers is from November through March, especially just in time for olio nuovo (the new olive oil harvest). Avoid visiting during the first week of January when the city is bustling with Pitti Uomo (men’s fashion week), which attracts a crowd of fashion enthusiasts. On weekends, while the streets may still be active, they are predominantly filled with Italians vacationing or visiting. However, increasingly, tourists are showing interest in visiting during the off-season.
Sunset strolls and pink skies on the Ponte della Trinita.
Experience Florence’s Culinary Delights
The scent of burning firewood from the countryside is simply enchanting. The absence of humidity and mosquitoes, combined with fewer crowds, enhances the experience – although tourist numbers are on the rise even during this “off-season.”
Hearty Florentine Cuisine
Florentine cuisine truly shines in the colder months. Think of hearty soups like ribollita (a rustic dish made from stale bread and vegetables), acquacotta maremmana (a rich vegetable soup), and la farinata di cavolo nero (kale and polenta soup). Winter is also the season for wild game, making it the perfect time to indulge in dishes like pappardelle al cinghiale (wild boar pasta) during the food fair Sagra del Cinghiale e del Tortello.
Weekend Walks and Scenic Views
I enjoy weekend strolls outside the city center when the air is crisp. As the day darkens, the sunsets transform the sky into vibrant hues. Days are shorter, and the clarity in the winter light reveals stunning views from the Ponte Vecchio, particularly during sunset.
Don’t miss the sourdough bread at S. Forno.
Warm Up with Local Favorites
For warming flavors during winter, nothing beats a bowl of ribollita. A favorite spot for this dish is Trattoria Ruggero, known for its rustic interior and authentic atmosphere.
Neighborhoods to Explore
Explore neighborhoods like Sant’Ambrogio for an authentic Florentine experience. Here, locals gather for delicious sandwiches and coffee amidst the vibrant market scene. As night falls, young crowds fill Borgo La Croce, enjoying the lively atmosphere.
A view of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.
Discover the Perfect Day in Florence
Start your day with breakfast at one of the charming cafés in Florence, famous for delights like the gluten-free Iris cake. Follow that with a leisurely stroll through local markets for fresh produce and artisanal bread.
Lunch and Scenic Views
For lunch, consider a countryside retreat where you can savor traditional dishes such as ravioli alla mugellana. After a satisfying meal, enjoy a peaceful walk back to the city center, stopping to admire the scenery along the way.
Winding Down After a Day of Exploration
As evening approaches, indulge in a glass of natural wine at one of the local enotecas. Dinner should include a visit to a well-respected trattoria offering classic dishes. Conclude your day with a movie at Giunti Odeon, a historic cinema that enriches the evening with culture.
Off-Season Activities to Relish
In November, cycling through the countryside is a hidden gem—perfect for a picnic lunch while basking in the beauty of the season. Additionally, there’s nothing like enjoying the warmth of a wood-burning fire after a long day of exploration.
