Discover the Volcanic Peaks of Auvergne with iBestTravel

Our slow travel series explores how you can take more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, bike or hike – with tips on how to reach your destination, and what to see and do along the way. In this installment, Anna Richards shows you a French summer hiking alternative to the Alps.

Embarking on the quest of scaling the volcanic peaks known as puys in the Auvergne region, I challenged myself to conquer as many of them as I could. This pursuit often shares similarities with the beloved Scottish tradition of munro-bagging. With a total of 80 puys scattered across the Auvergne region, how many of these summits could I conquer in a single endeavor while savoring the experience at a gentle pace?

Challenge Accepted

Ready, Set, Go

Every year, some 20,000 hikers lace up their boots to tackle the 166km (103-mile) Tour du Mont Blanc; Chamonix alone can have up to 100,000 visitors a day in peak season. While I understand the allure of alpine peaks, the traffic on the trails often makes me wonder if a walk around the city center in my hometown would be more peaceful. Finding quiet hiking trails is still possible; however, for pristine landscapes that are truly off the beaten track, Auvergne is arguably the best hiking region in France that many have overlooked.

The Departure

Start at Puy de Dôme

Crowned by a curious antenna, Puy de Dôme in Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne is one of the youngest puys in the 45km (28-mile) region. At 1465m (4806ft) high, Puy de Dôme is no Mont Blanc; however, it does allow hikers to “bag” multiple puys in a single day.

To minimize my carbon footprint, I limited my sights to the closest peaks with shorter drives. A three-hour hike from the Panoramique des Dômes parking area takes you to the summit of Puy de Dôme, offering panoramic views over the city of Clermont-Ferrand. Alternatively, a cog railway can facilitate the ascent if needed.

Next Stops…

Puy de Sancy: Swap the Chairlift for a Scenic Ramble

My next stop, Puy de Sancy, is the highest peak in Auvergne at 1885m (6185ft). During the summer, its accessibility can make it one of the busiest hiking routes in the region. The chairlift runs year-round, but I recommend skipping it to enjoy the three-hour loop walk between the base and Puy de Sancy. The scenic route climbs steeply for the first half, followed by a more challenging descent, allowing you to immerse yourself in the beauty of the region.

Puy Mary: Taking the “Cheese Route” for the Journey’s Most Dramatic Views

My final puy destination was Puy Mary, standing at 1783m (5850ft) and known for its dramatic views. Following the Cheese Route, a cleverly branded itinerary promoting rural tourism, I encountered stunning landscapes and charming farms. Although I faced poor weather during my visit, the trail remained inviting and serene, puncturing the mist with an aura of adventure.

The Finish

Three Puys Bagged

With three puys bagged, I know there are still 77 more waiting for future adventures. Although the weather may not have been ideal, my encounters with fellow hikers were minimal, enhancing my connection with the landscapes.

How to Make It Happen

For detailed trail maps and GPS traces for the puys, numerous resources are available online. Additionally, there are various great hotels and lodges in the region, where average accommodations cost about €80 per night. Therefore, plan your visit to explore the majestic beauty of Auvergne!