Discover Bahia’s African Heritage and Vibrant Culture
This is the place where most Africans were brought. That’s probably the first thing you should know about Bahia. They were transported from the western coast of Africa to toil in the vast fields of sugarcane, which once helped make Portugal one of the wealthiest empires in the world. Nearly 1.7 million enslaved Africans arrived here during the slave trade, and the country was the last in the Americas to make the practice illegal. Today, Bahia stands as Brazil’s most African state, with more than three-quarters of its 15 million inhabitants tracing their roots back to the opposite side of the Atlantic. This fact emphasizes that Bahia is Brazil’s most Brazilian state, with many of the country’s contributions to the world, from its carnival to its capoeira, originating in Bahia and continuing to flourish here today.
Vibrant Salvador: The Heart of Afro-Brazilian Culture
My week in Bahia began in Salvador, the largest city in the country’s northeast region and the pulsating heart of Afro-Brazilian culture. My guide, Conor O’Sullivan, picked me up at the airport and skillfully navigated through the traffic skirting the edge of the sea. Home to almost three million people, Salvador lies near the southern tip of a peninsula that divides the immense Bahia de Todos Santos from the bright blue waters of the Atlantic and climbs up a tall escarpment. The 150-year-old Lacerda Elevator, renowned as one of the world’s busiest public lifts, transports people from the lower part of the city, the Cidade Baixa, to the upper part, the Cidade Alta.
Transformation and Revitalization
As recently as a decade ago, Salvador was often labeled a failed city, plagued by high crime rates and crumbling infrastructure. However, in recent years, revitalization efforts have transformed its fortunes. Conor drove me to the stylish Fasano Salvador, a new luxury hotel that reflects the growing investment in the city’s potential. He praised the revitalization projects undertaken by local governments.
Rich Cultural Landscape
Evidence of these revitalization efforts was clear as we drove through the city. Work crews were busy spreading fresh asphalt, and in a grand old building, construction had begun on the Museum of Brazilian Music, paying tribute to Salvador’s rich musical heritage, where Gilberto Gil and Caetano Veloso pioneered the Afro-Brazilian sound known as Tropicália in the late 1960s.
Historic Echoes in Pelourinho
The ambitious aim has been to position Salvador as the leading cultural destination in all of Latin America. Four centuries ago, when Rio de Janeiro was little more than a pirate’s den, Salvador was the capital of Brazil. The city still retains a lot of its colonial charm, with the historic neighborhood of Pelourinho recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its steep cobbled streets and stone squares are flanked by Portuguese cathedrals adorned with gold.
The Spirit of Music and Dance
Throughout the day and into the evening, the sounds of elaborate drumming ricochet off the façades of the grand old houses, painted in the colors of the tropics—the orange of papaya, the yellow of mango, and the blue of the sea. When restrictions from the pandemic began to ease, I had the chance to witness an impromptu performance by Banda Olodum, a legendary samba-reggae band, celebrating the vibrancy of Salvador’s music scene.
A Deep Dive into Capoeira
Conor introduced me to Mestre Valmir, a charismatic capoeira master, who shared the history of this martial art form. Originally developed by enslaved Africans as a means of self-defense, capoeira combines intricate moves, music, and rhythm, highlighting the beauty of physical expression while preserving cultural roots.
A Culinary Journey Through Bahia
As we explored the culinary landscape, I was fortunate to dine at Casa de Tereza, a vibrant restaurant showcasing Bahian cuisine influenced by West African flavors. We savored a moqueca, a spicy fish stew cooked in azeite de dende, an oil derived from the African oil palm, which illustrates Bahia’s unique culinary heritage.
Exploring the Spiritual Heritage
Daré Rose, a scholar and member of the candomblé religion, welcomed us into her terreiro, where she shared the significance of this faith born from African customs brought to Brazil. Despite facing persecution historically, the followers of candomblé have persevered, and their beliefs now number in the millions across Brazil.
Natural Wonders of Bahia
If you seek serene beaches and breathtaking natural beauty, Bahia offers an abundance of both. Home to remote paradises like the Maraú peninsula, this region boasts mangroves, waterfalls, and miles of unspoiled beaches. The hotel where I stayed provided a perfect escape amid the lush landscapes and pristine coastlines.
Chapada Diamantina: Nature’s Canvas
My adventure culminated in Chapada Diamantina, a stunning national park known for its dramatic landscapes and ecological diversity. From towering waterfalls to sprawling cacti and captivating caves, every corner of this park promised spectacular views and unforgettable experiences.
Conclusion: The Resilience of Bahia
Throughout my travels in Bahia, I experienced a culture deeply rooted in African heritage, characterized by resilience, vibrancy, and creativity. The spirit of the people and the beauty of the land intertwined to create a memorable journey that left an indelible mark on my heart.
