Discover Bang Krachao: Bangkok’s Green Lung

An escape to Bang Krachao, known as Bangkok’s Green Lung, offers a welcome respite from the crowded city. Just across the Chao Phraya River, this largely agricultural area comprises 16 sq km of mangrove forests, small homesteads, and elevated pathways precariously perched above the canals. Visitors can find a floating market, 250-year-old Buddhist temples, and an eco-resort where you can sleep in a tree house. Hire a bike for a leisurely ride to enjoy the serene setting and explore Thai village life – you’ll find it hard to believe you’re near the centre of the Thai capital.

Getting There

Long boats run from Wat Klongtoey Pier to Kamnan Khao Pier for the 5-minute river crossing. Bike hire can be found at either pier for around 80B per day. Alternatively, take the BTS to Bang Na and then a taxi to Wat Bang Na Nork Pier for the short river crossing by ferry. It is customary to provide an ID as a ‘deposit’ for your bike, which will be returned at the end of your rental.

The Route

Once over the waters at Kamnan Khao Pier, head clockwise around the main (and only) two-lane road that follows the Chao Phraya River. First stop, the Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery, a museum and parkland dedicated to betta fish, known as fighting fish due to their highly territorial nature. Its Green Corridor is an educational outdoor walkway detailing the heritage of the Phra Pradaeng District, while the Fish Gallery houses a small collection of these local marine creatures. A camping zone with tent rental is available on site, should you wish to stay overnight.

Continue along the 6024 road, which weaves past canals and elevated pathways. Take a rest stop at Wat Bang Kor Bua temple, whose weathered facade crumbles from the humid tropical air, then park up at Wat Bang Nam Phueng Nok to wander its leafy grounds. Ride over narrow pathways around clusters of bamboo trees to find Bangkok Tree House by the river’s edge. This eco-resort features 12 multi-level bungalows sculpted from sustainable and recycled materials. Its restaurant, Reflect, serves Thai classics and fusion dishes using locally grown organic produce. Grab a seat on an upper terrace for the best lunchtime views.

Ride along Buaphueng Pattana Road towards the weekend ‘floating’ market of Bang Nam Pheung. Most of the stalls are on dry land, with some vendors cooking dishes over a wok fire from their boat kitchens. The majority of the market features food, plants, and bric-a-brac items on sale from stalls shaded from the glaring sun by canopies. Its lanes get busy at lunchtime, making strolling more of a steady push.

Continue west to Ganesha of MahaDewalai, the only Hindu temple on Bang Krachao. The god of beginnings and the remover of obstacles, this large elephant statue serves as a serene stop for a scenic picture. A few kilometres further, Si Nakhon Kheun Khan is a public park and botanical garden with bike trails, fishponds, and a multilevel bird lookout to its east. Relax here, where the chatter of wildlife is the only noise for miles, surrounded by coral, banyan, cork, and portia trees.

Heading back to the starting point, Kamnan Khao Pier, you will pass teak-framed houses on stilts, many with private walkways over water- and reed-filled canals. Bang Krachao became an island when a small canal, Khlong Lat Pho, was created in the early 1800s, detaching it from the mainland. Today, its jungle lanes are easy to navigate, making it an ideal day trip within a city oasis. Its mangrove forests, small farms, and quiet hamlets transport you to a leafy land devoid of urban sprawl.