Belgrade’s Traditional Artisans: A Glimpse into Handmade Treasures
Although increasingly pushed out of work by mass-produced domestic and foreign goods, a number of Belgrade’s traditional artisans are persevering in keeping their family businesses—and the memory of the city as it was decades ago—alive. Behind their quaint shopfronts, which defy the encroaching blandness of malls and global brands, you can find unique handmade accessories, treats, and souvenirs, as well as an old-fashioned approach to service. Here, stories of times gone by are exchanged alongside goods.
Bosiljčić Candy Store
Famed for the wide variety of flavors of freshly made ratluk (Turkish delight), Bombondžija Bosiljčić is the last remaining traditional artisanal candy store in Belgrade. Opened in 1936 by the grandfather of current owners and candy makers, Bosiljčić occupies a tiny house flanked by faded grand buildings on Gavrila Principa street. Although the Turkish delight—a staple of Belgrade homes since the Ottoman times—is their most famous product, they also offer colorful lollipops and delectable chocolate-covered toffees that are sure to delight your taste buds.
Sava Perfumery
A visit to Parfimerija Sava, Belgrade’s last traditional perfumer nestled in a crumbling art-nouveau building on Kralja Petra street, offers much more than just an opportunity to sniff and buy one of several dozen male and female perfume concoctions. You’ll be charmed and entertained by its gregarious owner, Nenad Jovanov, whose family has been in the perfumery business since the 1940s. If you decide to buy, you’ll receive a bottle with a typewritten label and be sprayed with a cloud of your chosen scent. Sava’s bestseller for men is ‘Beogradska noć’ (Belgrade night), whose light citrus notes evoke mid-century elegance.
Petrof Bookbinders
Across from Bosiljčić, Knjigoveznica Petrof is one of the last remaining artisanal bookbinders in Belgrade. Started in 1905 and still run as a family business, the workshop is filled with creations from decades past, standing by antique machines. If you’re craving a handsome notebook, bookmark, or photo album, you can find them here, or even have them custom-made within a few days.
Ercegovac Millinery
Founded in 1927, Ercegovac hats and accessories store has preserved old-world elegance in the heart of Belgrade through four generations of its owners. In the early days, they sold hats to ladies throughout the Kingdom of Yugoslavia from their workshop, established in Terazije since 1936. Fully recognized as the destination for fashionable ladies, a notable achievement is that they provided hats for the Russian Winter Olympics team in 1994.
Opačić Shoe Shop
Originally founded in Zagreb in 1961, Opačić family workshop moved to Belgrade in 1992. Specializing in classic leather and suede shoes for men, they quickly became the go-to shop for gentlemen within Belgrade’s business, diplomatic, and political circles. The flagship Opačić shop is located on the ancient commercial street, Kralja Petra, with another branch inside the Sava Centre in New Belgrade.
Rade Hats and Caps
Rade has been providing Belgrade’s gentlemen with various hats and caps from its shop on Balkanska street for nearly seven decades. The store offers a range of headgear, from elegant felt fedoras to traditional Serbian šajkača (originally a military cap) and striking Montenegrin flat caps. All items are handmade from natural materials by the founder’s third-generation family.
Orijent Sweets
The pastel-colored shop window of Poslastičarnica Orijent (Balkanska 36), showcasing a careful arrangement of sweets, wouldn’t be out of place in a Wes Anderson film. Founded in the 1930s and relocated in 1947, this shop is among the few remaining places in Belgrade where you can savor authentic Turkish-style desserts. Inside the charming wood-paneled shop, indulge in syrup-drenched baklava, sesame-infused halva, or crescent-shaped, walnut-flavored orasnice. To enhance your experience, enjoy these delicacies with a traditional Turkish coffee or boza, a malt drink popular throughout the Balkans and the Middle East.
