Ben Tish might be from the UK, but he seems to have Mediterranean blood coursing through his veins. Synonymous with the heady foods of Italy, Spain, North Africa, and the South of France, his food presence on the British restaurant scene has been built upon layers of olive oil, fresh lemon juice, za’atar, and the spices of those warm southern climes. Through the many Cubitt House pubs he oversees as chef director, he transports diners over the Channel and down into the Levant that he so loves. His upcoming project, Mediterra, set to release in July 2024, is another love letter to the region he so reveres and follows on from previous successful endeavors such as Sicilia and Moorish.
“The new project has a completely Mediterranean focus. That’s my passion, as you probably know,” he shared. “I wanted to expand on both of my previous works because Sicilia clearly focuses on Sicily, but Mediterra is more of a travel log. It touches on many places around the basin of the Mediterranean, dividing studies of the islands, northern shores, southern shores, and eastern shores, across North Africa, the Middle East, and the familiar Mediterranean themes. It’s about what links all of those places together, which includes climate and geography, the use of olive oil and southern spices, dried fruits, and all the common denominators of Mediterranean cuisine.” He admits that, in a saturated food market, the pressure to produce something different is substantial but emphasizes that staying authentic is crucial because “if it isn’t authentic, you aren’t going to create a meaningful project.”
In addition to his ongoing projects, Ben is crafting a cookbook centered on Cubitt House, described as a “lifestyle book with lots of recipes, similar to the Soho House book,” offering insights into the history and geography of the pubs across the Cubitt House Group while sharing delectable dishes to recreate at home. The privately-owned London pubs include The Orange in Belgravia, which has been serving since 1800 and recently underwent significant renovations, and The Princess Royal in Notting Hill, among others; all of which emphasize preservation and sustainability of their sites.
When asked where he would relocate if he left the UK for his much-loved Mediterranean lifestyle, he replied, “Puglia.” He explained, “It’s not as raw as Sicily. Sicily is lovely, but I don’t know if I could live there. It’s quite ‘Wild West’ in places, but Puglia strikes a balance of still being very authentic. While there is a tourist element, it’s not as noticeable as many other locations in Italy. The food is amazing, and there are some really cool cultural happenings.”
During his precious time off without venturing far, Ben and his wife, Nykeeta, enjoy the shores of Rye in East Sussex. He noted that the nearby beach of Camber Sands is “wonderful for dog walking.” He appreciates that it’s “not Margate; it’s a bit older, I suppose more gentrified place, and it’s lovely. Our friends own an impressive lifestyle shop there – Hunter Jones Store – and the whole area boasts a charming artistic culture. Though it’s not right on the beach, you’re only five minutes away from Camber Sands.” With that, Ben shares his top five must-visit places to eat and drink for a weekend getaway in Rye.
Tillingham
“This is on the outskirts of Rye, overlooking the sea and the Romney Salt Marshes. It’s a winery, where the team crafts their own natural British South Coast wines. It also features bedrooms alongside an outstanding restaurant. The chef, Brendan Eades, is ex-Moro, and he prepares that kind of Mediterranean, simple food done brilliantly, with a focus on grilling and open-fire cooking. There’s also a shop selling wine and other delightful lifestyle items to take away with you. It’s such an amazing spot.”
Who comes here?
“This is a bit of a lifestyle place; it’s got a big bar where people enjoy natural wines from all over the region and beyond.”
Best table in the restaurant
“Anywhere in the restaurant is lovely, but also worth a look is the big wood-fired oven outside that they have – that’s another lovely spot serving up wood-fired pizzas. You can sit there and overlook the countryside; it’s quite a dreamy place.”
Best time to go
“I think it’s amazing in the summer.”
Dish to order
“I had charcoal grilled lamb chops with cumin, borlotti beans, some turnip tops, and a mint dressing. It was unbelievably delicious.”
The Gallivant
“This is just outside of Rye on the road between Rye and Camber Sands. It’s literally on the road and a stone’s throw from the beach. It’s fantastic because you can have lunch there and head straight to the beach. The ambiance has a bit of a California theme, which sounds unusual, but I think the owner must have some experience with that West Coast lifestyle. The food is fantastic, and they offer morning yoga and other activities; it gives off a slightly hippy vibe.”
Who comes here?
“It’s amazing; however, the secret is out, and it’s become a destination due to its location and the amenities they provide, including a Bamford spa.”
Best table in the restaurant
“I would sit outside overlooking the beach if the weather permits, but it’s also very cozy inside during winter with an open fire.”
Best time to go
“I’ve experienced brunch, lunch, and dinner, but I think the brunches are particularly appealing.”
Dish to order
“The Gallivant features a seafood-centric menu where they cook over charcoal and wood. Expect dishes like whole skate wing with new potatoes and garlic, and they offer local lobsters and prawns over the grill. At brunch, don’t miss the Iberico bacon brioche bun with homemade brown sauce or portobello mushrooms with confit garlic and grilled tomatoes.”
The Fig
“Situated right in the center of Rye, it’s a café that also serves drinks in the evenings. It has an Ottolenghi-esque vibe, serving refreshing salads with spices, harissa, and cumin; everything is executed flawlessly.”
Who comes here?
“It is cherished by Rye locals, but there are also accommodations available, attracting visitors from afar.”
Best table in the restaurant
“The Fig buzzes with energy, and the window tables overlooking the street contribute to the lively atmosphere.”
Best time to go
“They serve breakfast all day and an excellent brunch, which is when I would personally visit, but they also mix cocktails in the evenings for those seeking an entertaining night out.”
Dish to order
“I had aubergine shawarma, spiced aubergine with dates, chickpeas, and dukkah. Another standout was their local smoked salmon from the smokery in Rye, served with horseradish, new potatoes, and courgettes on homemade rye bread.”
The George Hotel
“The George Hotel is a Rye institution that has been around for ages but faced a fire in 2019. Following a massive renovation, it reopened its doors. Having visited before and after the fire, I can attest that they must have invested significantly in the renovation, resulting in stunning transformations.”
Who comes here?
“With its accommodations, The George attracts guests from various locations. The restaurant is predominantly seafood-focused, so those who love seafood are inclined to dine here.”
Best table in the restaurant
“For a relaxed ambiance, there’s a charming bar where you can enjoy a meal without sitting in the dining area, though both spaces are equally inviting.”
Best time to go
“Having dined for both lunch and dinner, I can confirm that both meals are exceptional. Reservations can be made even if you’re not staying in the hotel.”
Dish to order
“I enjoyed a spectacular surf and turf dish featuring a local ribeye steak topped with Gamba Rosso shrimp and preserved lemon butter.”
Marino’s Fish Bar
“This establishment is essentially a top-tier fish and chips restaurant. They serve exquisite fish and chips either for dining in or takeaway. Interestingly, the chips are traditionally cooked in beef fat (alternative options are available), showcasing how some classic establishments maintain high standards. Coming from Skegness in Lincolnshire, I experienced my fair share of subpar fish and chips, but Marino’s does it exceptionally well.”
Who comes here?
“People travel from far and wide for Marino’s, often queuing outside. It occupies a prime location on Rye High Street and has become quite popular.”
Best table in the restaurant
“I recommend ordering your meal to take away and enjoying it on the beach when the weather cooperates.”
Best time to go
“Any time is good, but spring or summer is ideal for enjoying fish and chips on the beach.”
Dish to order
“I typically order a small cod and chips with mushy peas and curry sauce.”
Mediterra will be published on 4 July 2024. Ben Tish is also the chef director at Cubitt House, and The Orange in Belgravia is now open again following its refurbishment.
