From World’s Best Bar to Building a New Legacy

“Closing might have seemed like a really odd decision from the outside,” said Ryan Chetiyawardana, whose bar, Dandelyan, closed earlier this month. “But it felt like an obvious choice.”

When Ryan Chetiyawardana announced back in October that Dandelyan would be closing, he caused somewhat of a stir in the global cocktail world — and among mixology enthusiasts, food media, and lovers of “best of” lists. This announcement arrived just a few months after the bar’s drinks list had been named “World’s Best Cocktail Menu” at Tales of the Cocktail’s Spirited Awards. Furthermore, three days later, the London establishment topped the year’s list of the World’s 50 Best Bars.

Chetiyawardana, popularly known as Mr Lyan, is one of the most recognizable bartenders globally — a notable feat given how few bartenders attract public attention. His flagship bar seemed to set the gold standard for cocktail bars. As Dandelyan approached its fourth anniversary, he made the bold decision to close it and start anew.

The Impact of the Closure

“A lot of people questioned whether we had known [about the award],” said Chetiyawardana in an interview with iBestTravel. “We totally didn’t. I can understand the panic that the 50 Best people might have had. However, that decision wasn’t flippant; it had been building for quite some time.”

During a brief break from overseeing renovations, just prior to the reopening, Chetiyawardana shared, “We’ve seen a lot of people peering in from the sidewalk. People are truly intrigued by this metamorphosis.” Acknowledging the quick turnaround — Dandelyan officially closed on March 17 — he conceded, “We’ve never made such rapid changes before. People expected it to take months, which is likely the usual scenario.”

Introducing Lyaness

Today, the space welcomes its new, more vibrant tenant. Lyaness does not serve as a complete overhaul, but represents a significant transformation. The beautiful waterfront location — on the ground floor of Sea Containers London, a stylish hotel on the rapidly evolving South Bank — underwent comprehensive renovations, adopting a brighter and more energetic atmosphere. Jacu Strauss, previously part of Dandelyan’s design team, is now the creative director for the Lore Group (owner of Sea Containers) and led the design of the new bar.

The decor has shifted dramatically: brass accents, floral motifs, and pink banquettes have been replaced with a soothing palette of baby blues and soft grays, although the iconic serpentinite bar remains unchanged.

However, the most significant change is philosophical. Chetiyawardana reflects on Dandelyan’s legacy, the current state of the industry, and the future of cocktails. “It became evident that the conversation had shifted, and it was clear we needed to adapt.” The bar had pioneered what is now known as a “botanical” approach, featuring intriguing vegetal flavor profiles and whimsical garnishes, creating a lasting impact on cocktail culture.

Innovative Cocktail Menus

In light of the mainstream acceptance of botanical cocktails, Chetiyawardana sought to introduce something fresh. The foundation of the Lyaness menu features seven base ingredients designed to highlight flavors that are often overlooked in the cocktail realm, such as peanuts and raspberry. Out of these, five are crafted in-house, while two result from collaborations: a whisky partnership with Compass Box, and a new spirit developed in conjunction with Empirical Spirits. For each ingredient, there are three suggested iterations, resulting in a total of 21 distinct drink options — but this only scratches the surface. Guests can also unleash their creativity using the base ingredients to concoct their own unique drinks.

“Cocktail bars can often feel intimidating,” Chetiyawardana explained. “At Lyaness, individuals don’t need extensive knowledge about cocktails. We offer examples of how we believe these ingredients can be integrated, but you can also utilize your own experience.” This innovative approach likens cocktail crafting to a farmers market experience, where diners select intriguing components to enhance familiar recipes. “You can still enjoy a drink you know, but the novel ingredient opens up a world of possibilities, adding an element of magic.”

Chetiyawardana is motivated by the idea of approachability, stating, “We wanted to democratize the cocktail experience.” This principle emerged during his time at Dandelyan but was often overshadowed by the menu’s creativity and whimsy. “Guests were genuinely excited about the offerings and were eager to engage.” He cultivated an environment where patrons could inquire and staff could collaborate creatively. “We didn’t want to discard the foundations that worked.”

For him, the lioness symbolizes these guiding values. “They are social leaders, adept hunters, and pivotal figures in their communities. They set the tone. Our aim was to discover exceptional flavors while making them accessible to a broader audience.”

The new bar serves as the inaugural step on what will evolve into a global Mr Lyan circuit. Chetiyawardana’s next endeavor takes him to the Netherlands soon as he launches Super Lyan, shifting from its previous location in Hoxton. Later this year, he will arrive in the United States for another Lore Collection hotel opening, the upcoming Riggs D.C..

Chetiyawardana concluded, “We owed it to Dandelyan and to all who contributed to its legacy to allow it to evolve.”