Explore the Culinary Delights of Oaxaca, Mexico

The cuisine is unprecedented — second only to the mezcal.

The Festive Atmosphere of Oaxaca

It is a cool, crisp autumn’s eve. Midnight is approaching and the streets are popping — literally, as fireworks careen overhead. The streets are a dense melee of frolicking faces, most of them obscured in carefully painted calaveras. Live brass music echoes through the air. This is Día De Los Muertos in the city of Oaxaca. There is perhaps no place in the world that observes the holiday with such widespread fervor. However, you needn’t arrive during the first two days of November to settle into a sense of celebration here.

Why Oaxaca is a Must-Visit Destination

The vibrant capital of its eponymous state, Oaxaca has long been a cherished domestic destination. Over the past decade, however, it has courted increased status as a global stopping point — driven by the appeal of its local cuisine and the soaring popularity of mezcal, its native spirit. To meet demand, its small 10-gate airport is now receiving direct flights from the U.S. daily. Ready to explore? Drink it all in with help from a few experts.

Iconic Food & Drink Recommendations

“Every time I’m there, I must stop into Bar La Giralda for my favorite michelada on the planet,” said author Javier Cabral, who co-wrote “Oaxaca: Home Cooking From The Heart Of Mexico.” “They use pasilla chiles in the base. The more you drink, the more botanas [snacks] arrive.”

The flavors of Oaxacan cuisine possess a distinctive intensity. According to Cabral, it’s owed to fresh, local ingredients that frequently find their way into the dishes, ones you don’t often find outside of this specific region — a part of Mexico which he contends hasn’t globalized as quickly as others. “The food is either so herbaceous thanks to avocado leaves or other wild herbs used here — or deeply fruity-spicy, because the chiles are so good. Or toasty thanks to all the spices and heirloom corn that is still the norm everywhere you go,” he observed. “The flavors just pop.”

Experiencing Oaxacan Magic in Los Angeles

In Los Angeles, Oaxacan expat Ivan Vasquez has brought much of that magic to Southern California at Madre, a concept inspired by the cooking of his mother, with two locations across the city. Traditional favorites such as moles, posole, and tlayudas are paired alongside a selection of more than 300 mezcals. Vasquez frequently travels to his homeland to mine these authentic flavors — and spirits — importing them back to his restaurants. While on the road, he often dines at El Destilado, where a robust nine-course tasting menu is matched with creative cocktails infused with regional herbs.

Must-Try Restaurants in Oaxaca

Another favorite spot is Origen, where 2016 Top Chef winner Rodolfo Castellanos renders artful expressions with seasonal ingredients. His grilled octopus and chicharrón are must-haves. For a casual meal, Vasquez recommends La Popular — an eatery with an easy vibe, recognizable by its bright yellow facade. “It’s one of the best casual spots in downtown Oaxaca to enjoy tlayudas, ceviche, or a seasonal soup,” he said. “Their Mexican artisanal beer selection is second to none and it’s only a few minutes away from my favorite mezcalerias in the city.”

Late-Night Eats

For late-night cravings, do not miss out on El Lechoncito de Oro — a street stand specializing in seared pork tacos, which have been known to bring grown adults to tears. Vasquez also recommends Las Tludas de Mina y Bustamante for crushable tlayudas prepared on a charcoal grill, and chocolate atole, a traditional heated dessert beverage.

Authentic Experiences in Oaxaca

“Street food and small hole-in-the-wall cantinas are among my favorite bites in Oaxaca,” said Elliott Coon, who moved to the city 10 years ago to co-found Gem & Bolt — a popular mezcal, distilled with damiana. “These are the authentic spots where you really feel the true texture, flavor, and color of what Oaxaca has to offer.” When she’s craving a more formal affair, Coon opts for dependable classics including La Teca, where mole and tamales reign supreme; Itanoni, a tortilleria and antojería that chef Alice Waters once called her favorite restaurant in the city; and Los Danzantes, an artsy space featuring rustic fare and extensive pours of mezcal. Finally, at Criollo she enjoys tasting menus that are equal parts pre-Hispanic cuisine and modern fusion.

The Heart of Local Culture

To find the best flavors, you can always go directly to the source. Mercado de Abastos is Oaxaca’s largest market, a colorful showcase of all the area has to offer. Take a tour through the bustling hub with noted guide — and Instagram celebrity — Omar Alonso (@Oaxacking). “This is where locals go to buy everything,” he explained. “During holidays, it’s particularly packed as we gather the ingredients we’ll need to offer to our guests that come during the festivities.”

The Day of the Dead Celebrations

Arrive during Día de los Muertos and Alonso will take you to the marigold fields at Zimatlan de Alvarez, to buy the celebratory flower from the locals who grow it. “People wait the whole year for this occasion to dress up and dance on the streets at night,” he said of the ritual.

Coon commemorates the holiday with an annual soiree at her home in centro (downtown). The ticketed, invite-only event culminates in a comparsa (parade) through the city and raises money for local charities. Over nine years, Gem & Bolt has contributed more than $50,000 to the community. “There are numerous Mexican states that also embrace Day of the Dead in incredibly rich ways,” she observed, “But without question, Oaxaca is amongst the most festive and colorful.”

Mezcal: A Staple of Oaxacan Culture

No matter what time of year you land, the mezcal will surely be flowing. Vasquez advised stops at the Insitu Mezcaleria to learn at the feet of industry legend Ulises Torrentera. Cuish Mezcaleria and Sabina Sabe are obligatory pit stops on any evening crawl. During the day, you can sample rare expressions, by appointment, at the Mezcaloteca.

“But the best way to experience mezcal is to get outside of the city and explore the small communities that make it,” said Alonso, who takes guests on daylong adventures into the rural palenques (farm distilleries) that have been producing the liquid in the same way for generations. He includes transportation, tastings, and lunch. “Still, if you want to visit a distillery [on your own] I’m sure they will receive you with some mole, bread, and chocolate.”

Where to Stay in Oaxaca

When you venture back to town, choose your accommodation wisely. Consider staying at the recently launched Hotel Sin Nombre — a boutique bohemian spot that forgoes in-room Wi-Fi to foster a communal vibe built around a two-story central atrium. For more traditional luxury — and superior amenities — you’ll want to lay your head at the Quinta Real. Alternatively, if you’re after an outside-the-city stay — in the heart of a mezcal distillery no less — book well in advance at Casa Silencio, the brand-new, six-room hotel from Mezcal El Silencio.

Year-Round Warm Welcome in Oaxaca

Wherever you stay and whatever experiences await, this city extends a warm welcome, year-round. “There is always a reason to go to Oaxaca,” maintained Vasquez. “If there isn’t, we come up with one.”