Discover Portofino: The Hidden Gem in September
Including lunches with locals, dinners at sunset, and boat trips to secret coves.
6 April 2024
For Milan-born, New York-based filmmaker Francesco Carrozzini, being in Portofino is like a homecoming. The Ligurian resort town was the backdrop to nearly all his early summers and remains a place he returns to each year. However, unlike his childhood, he often avoids being there in August. “Portofino is hard to reach, which for years kept it protected,” he says. “But now it hits capacity – and in August it is just too crowded.” Instead, Carrozzini insists mid-September is the sweet spot. “Most tourists have left and the Italians are back in school; it reminds me of those last days of summer where I would stay out from early morning to sunset and enjoy every minute.”
Portofino in September
How would you describe Portofino in September?
It’s quiet, with fewer boats dotting the harbour. When I stroll through the square, I can take my time chatting with the vendors. A favourite spot is Bar Jolly, where I’ll chat with the owner, Mauro, for hours. This place embodies the charm of the 1950s Riviera with its old-school stripes and wood lacquered tables. In August, there is so much glitz that passes through Portofino, but in September, that’s all gone, and the place starts to feel timeless again.
The crowds clear in the Piazzetta come September
Boat rides are a preferred mode of transportation, even in the fall
Culinary Delights of Portofino
What do you look forward to eating this time of year?
I can’t decide between two very dear places to me. Taverna del Marinaio, owned by Manu and Paolo, feels like having dinner at a friend’s house. In September, I see all the people I grew up with there, and I always eat marinated scampi. It is out of this world, prepared with a citrus touch reminiscent of ceviche. Then I order a zucchini frittata, served in small bites, followed by the moscardini – baby octopus cooked with wine and rosemary.
Authentic Dining Experiences
Do you have any other go-to spots?
Concordia – it’s more hidden. It’s not in the square and does not offer a view but is family-owned. In Portofino, we say the owners are the mayors of food. All the locals dine there when they go out. Make sure to try the pastas.
September Weather Transformation
Tell me about the weather in September – how does it transform Portofino?
It’s warm, and the sea feels like an open-air pool. The trees turn golden and add a fragrance to the air – especially the maritime pines, which intensify with the coolness in the air during this time of year. It smells like the end of summer and is truly magical.
Colorful houses line the streets of Portofino
You’d do well to dig into a bowl of pasta with clams here.
Must-Try Meals
What do you consider a Portofino meal worth travelling for?
The scampi at Da Ö Batti Restaurant in Santa Margarita is the best dish you can enjoy in the entire region – the family uses a secret recipe that includes lemon, wine, and a hint of butter… it’s fresh and wonderful. I took a friend there once, and later on, he flew down from Munich just to indulge in the scampi before returning to Germany straight away.
Perfect Cocktail Hour
Where can we find you at cocktail hour?
On the terrace at Hotel Splendido with a Campari spritz. I like to do it before dinner because of the beautiful sunlight that time of year. If you come later, you’ll hear the pianist; his name is Vladimir, and he has been playing there for 30 years. He performs songs in both Italian and English, and people sing along – it is so entertaining.
Step into the bar at Hotel Splendido for a Campari spritz
The light over Portofino softens in September
Saturday Adventures in Portofino
What does a typical Saturday in September look like for you?
In the morning, I head to Santa Margherita on my Vespa for newspapers and a stroll. I live in America, so finding an actual zucchini or tomato in the local food market is a thrill. Then friends and I take a boat out; you can rent them in the square in Portofino. We will explore, stopping for swims in places like Baia degli Inglesi, which is a tiny bay between Camogli and Portofino. It’s nice to get to Spadin, in Camogli, for sunset. This place is challenging to reach and doesn’t attract many tourists. The tip is to reserve a table for sunset – the tables are set up between the rocks, allowing you to sit in the ocean, sipping wine and watching the sun go down.
Quintessential Spots
Are there any other quintessential spots that are special for you?
Da Giorgio – you arrive by boat, kick off your shoes, and go barefoot on the sands. The tables cling to the rocks. I always order fried fish, tuna carpaccio, and raw gamberetti. For me, its simplicity is the very definition of Italian luxury. It’s what tourists fall in love with when they visit.
