A Family Adventure in Italy’s Dolomites

1. Family Swaps Ski Trip

One family swapped their annual ski trip in the American West for Italy’s Dolomite Mountains. The allure of pristine slopes and breathtaking views beckoned them to this stunning region.

2. Journey to Rifugio Nambino

“The only way to get to the hut is by foot, which will take about 20 minutes,” a friend had written, along with a map. “There will be crampons waiting for you.” Although brief, the message hinted at a unique adventure awaiting at Rifugio Nambino, one of the traditional forest inns typical of this mountainous region in northern Italy.

A taxi delivered my husband, Chris, our two teenage sons, and me to the foot of a snow-covered slope, where a cable lift awaited to transport our luggage. The landscape was enveloped in darkness, situated within the Adamello Brenta Nature Park—a vast, 240-square-mile protected area known for its stunning lakes, waterfalls, and rugged mountain scenery.

Despite being one crampon short, Chris decided his rubber-soled boots would suffice. However, a few treacherous steps up the icy path proved otherwise. Following a static-filled call to the lodge, a staff member swiftly responded, sending down an extra pair of crampons using the cable’s slow pulley system. With only our iPhone flashlights lighting the way, we pressed on under Chris’s watchful guidance.

3. Delightful Dining Experiences

Upon arrival, the lodge buzzed with happy chatter from guests who had just returned from snowshoeing, backcountry, and cross-country skiing. The dynamic atmosphere was complemented by our table set by a hospitable proprietor, one of the three sisters managing the restaurant and fourteen-room inn. She introduced us to an array of culinary highlights from their seasonal menus, including:

• Melt-in-your-mouth venison carpaccio
• Lightly pickled trout
• Aromatic braised fish balls
• Rendena veal goulash over creamy polenta
• Hand-cut tagliatelle with venison ragù and currants

Every dish we tried felt like a celebration of the local flavors and traditions, reminding us of the authenticity of the Dolomites.

4. Luxurious Accommodations

During our stay, we were initially at the eco-conscious Biohotel Hermitage in Madonna di Campiglio. The converted cabin embodied the charm and warmth of Heidi in the Alps. Our cozy rooms featured traditional carved-pine furniture, and the wood-beamed lounge became our sanctuary for reading and relaxing each afternoon. Each evening, we explored the cobblestone streets of the town, indulging in appetizers and drinks from the cheerful staff before returning to our serene accommodations.

Later in the week, we ventured to the luxurious Lefay Resort & Spa, nestled in the picturesque Rendena Valley. The modern property was a spectacle of glass and wood, appearing as if it were part of the mountains themselves—an ideal blend of wellness retreat and ski lodge. The facility boasted a heated saltwater pool, numerous saunas, massage rooms, and spaces for relaxation.

5. Experiencing Après-Ski Culture

Breaking from our usual skiing habits back home, we allowed ourselves to unwind—opting for massages and spa treatments instead of countless runs on the slopes. This experience highlighted the essence of après-ski culture in the Dolomites; the slow-paced joy of relaxation is intricately woven into the regional lifestyle. This trip, indeed, reinforced my belief that Italians do it better.

A version of this story first appeared in the March 2023 issue of iBestTravel under the headline “Italian Ice”.