Exploring India: A Guide for Black Travelers on Solo Adventures

A photographer discovered, on a trip to Rajasthan, that the answer is a resounding yes.

As a Black traveler, I’ve faced numerous challenges. I’ve been ignored and belittled by waiters and hotel staff. Locals have grabbed my arms for photos. I’ve been told I look “too exotic” to be from London, my hometown. Women have touched my hair without permission, and men have catcalled, shouting names of celebrities who look nothing like me—except for our shared Blackness.

These disrespectful gestures are disheartening and often threaten to discourage travel altogether.

However, when I set out for India in April 2019, I prepared myself for negative attention and racial comments. Instead, I discovered a place that felt like home and reignited my passion for exploring the world.

This isn’t to say my journey was effortless. To maximize my experience, I employed several strategies that allowed me to navigate the destination more effectively. My initial step was to secure a room at a world-class hotel, the Leela Palace Udaipur on Lake Pichola, which iBestTravel readers ranked as the best hotel in the world in 2019.

It may seem obvious that a luxury hotel offers superior service; however, the advantages of my stay at the Leela Palace extended far beyond the delightful amenities. The knowledgeable concierges arranged kind and experienced guides with whom I felt secure. These guides took me to notable places like Jagdish Temple, where I quickly learned about Hindu beliefs, and local markets where I sampled kachori, a deep-fried chickpea-flour snack, and jalebi, a traditional sweet. The opportunities for photography were virtually limitless.

Moreover, I made it a point to engage with local women in markets whenever I had queries, regardless of whether they involved directions, shopping, or dining options. Despite the language barrier, they often welcomed me with gestures—like placing a vermilion bindi on my forehead or draping a garland of marigolds around my neck. In these encounters, I felt valued and embraced.

Lastly, I constantly reminded myself to maintain an open mind. While I brought certain preconceptions about India, it was fascinating to note that no one expressed surprise when I revealed I was from London. I arrived in Rajasthan with one set of expectations and departed with the realization that, while some trips may disappoint us, others can serve as profound revelations of self-discovery.

A version of this article first appeared in the February 2021 issue of iBestTravel under the headline Can Black Travelers Find Themselves in India, Too?