Discover the Quilombos of Brazil
Quilombos have a rich history in Brazil, dating back to the period when enslaved Africans were imported, creating self-sustaining communities often hidden deep in the forests. Currently, the term refers to communities that embody Afro-Brazilian heritage, standing against cultural erasure, environmental destruction, and racism. These communities are vibrant symbols of cultural resilience and empowerment.
The Brazilian government has officially recognized these communities since 1988, and they go through a rigorous process to achieve this designation and secure land ownership. Typically, a quilombo is a small community of Afro-Brazilians with limited contact with urban centers, preserving their heritage close to its African roots. Urban quilombos also exist, offering more accessibility for visitors eager to learn about their history and culture through hiking, history tours, and cultural activities, including dance and music.
It’s important to note that community members often do not speak English, and some quilombos are located far from public transportation. However, this should not deter you; for those who don’t speak Portuguese, Google Translate can be a helpful tool. Contacting communities through their Facebook pages or reaching out to English-speaking facilitators like Thais Pinheiros from Conectando Territórios can assist in arranging visits. While visiting a quilombo requires more effort than traditional tourist attractions, it is a wonderful opportunity for sustainable tourism, especially in and around Rio de Janeiro, where you can spend an afternoon learning about the Afro-Brazilian heritage.
Quilombo do Grotão
Quilombo do Grotão is a small community of 15 families located within the Serra da Tiririca State Park. The ancestors of these families migrated from the northern state of Sergipe shortly after slavery ended in Brazil in 1888. After enduring slavery-like conditions for decades, these ancestors chose to remain on the land once the plantation closed. In 2016, the community received official recognition as a quilombo, although being situated in a state park means it may never own the land outright.
This designation has sparked renewed interest in the community, leading them to host a weekly feijoada (black bean pork stew) and samba party on Sundays from noon until the evening, possibly the only samba party in a forest setting in Rio de Janeiro. Tours are regularly conducted by Thais Pinheiros during these events. If visitors wish to use public transportation, they can take a bus or ferry from Rio de Janeiro to Niterói and then catch a taxi or rideshare to the quilombo. The community updates its Facebook page with upcoming events and courses, and special visits can be arranged privately. Grotão’s main contact is Renato do Grotão at (+55 21 96502-8250).
Quilombo Pedra do Sal
Pedra do Sal is the most visited quilombo in Rio, yet many tourists are unaware of its status. Known for being the central location of Rio de Janeiro’s largest outdoor samba party, its unique history stretches back to the 18th and 19th centuries, when it was referred to as ‘Little Africa’. The nearby port area was the arrival point for over 1.5 million African people who were forcibly brought to Brazil. As some enslaved individuals earned their freedom, they settled here to form a community, practicing their beliefs, which laid the foundations for Brazil’s first centers of African religion.
Visiting Pedra do Sal is straightforward; simply attend the Monday night roda de Samba, which lasts until 11 pm. It’s conveniently located a 10-minute walk from the Metro Uruguaiana. The vibrant party atmosphere continues into the night, with DJs playing funk music and bars staying open until the early hours. To grasp the historical significance of the area, consider taking a guided tour. The Afro-Rio Tour explores the stories of Africans through the history of Rio de Janeiro’s streets, including a significant focus on Pedra do Sal. Another option is the Rio Free Walking Tour, which covers the port area, including museums and cultural landmarks.
Quilombo do Camorim
Adilson Almeida’s aspiration for Camorim, a small community located an hour west of Copacabana, is to gain full recognition as a quilombo by the Brazilian government. This community, originally formed by escaped enslaved people from one of the first plantations in the state, has significant historical value. Following the abolition of slavery, many former enslaved individuals returned to this area, which is now an archaeological site where artifacts from the 16th and 17th centuries continue to be unearthed.
In the backdrop of the 2016 Olympic Games, reports emerged highlighting that housing for journalists was built over a cemetery for enslaved people. The quilombo borders Pedra Branch State Park, which is one of the largest urban forests globally. Adilson, serving as the park’s caretaker, frequently organizes planting events and guided tours to the park’s natural lake. Keep an eye on the community’s Facebook page for monthly events; to plan a visit, you may also contact Adilson directly at (+55 21 98163-3792). Visitors can access the community through Rio’s 613 bus or by rideshare service.
Quilombo São Jose de Serra
The São José de Serra Quilombo is the oldest quilombo in Rio de Janeiro, located three hours from the city in a region historically known for producing 75% of the world’s coffee. Each year on May 13, the community of 150 residents hosts Brazil’s largest festival in honor of the Preto Velho, a figure celebrated for his wisdom and resilience in the face of slavery. This date marks Brazil’s abolition of slavery, yet the community chooses to celebrate instead the spirit of Preto Velho. Up to 3,000 people attend, joining in on 24 hours filled with feijoada, samba, and jongo dancing, culminating in a grand bonfire at midnight that continues burning until morning.
To organize a visit during the festival, check the community’s Facebook page at least two months in advance. The rest of the year, arranging private transport to the quilombo is common. Alternatively, you can reach out to the Estrada Conservatória-Santa Isabel do Rio Preto for a planned visit at (quilombosaojosedaserra@gmail.com; +55 24 2457-1130).
Quilombo Bracuí
The story of Bracuí Quilombo dates back to the late 1800s when José de Souza Beves, the owner of the Santa Rita do Bracuí sugar plantation, freed the enslaved individuals in 1879 and granted them the land they had labored upon. This peaceful community thrived until the 1960s, relying on farming for survival. However, the construction of a highway through the beachfront area attracted urbanites to Angra dos Reis, leading to legal challenges between the former enslaved inhabitants and condominium developers.
In the 1990s, community members began to self-identify as quilombolas to preserve their cultural heritage and land rights, achieving quilombo status in 1999, although they are still fighting for official land titles. This community offers a great escape from the bustling city life of Rio de Janeiro. Located just two hours away, buses drop visitors off on the main road, requiring a 20-minute walk to the community. Marilda Souza, the leader of the community association, welcomes groups of visitors, sometimes as large as 50, starting with a history lecture followed by a nature hike to a nearby waterfall. A visit to Bracuí can be added to a longer trip to Ilha Grande. Marilda can be contacted via the quilombo’s Facebook or Whatsapp at (+55 24 3369-3767) for arrangements. When purchasing bus tickets, ensure you choose the bus that stops near Bracuí in Angra.