From Must-Visit Restaurants to Art Galleries: Experience Cairo and Giza
6 January 2024
A visit to Cairo is a feast for the senses – from Giza’s dazzling array of pyramids and the soon-to-open Grand Egyptian Museum to the buzzing roadways and the intoxicating scents of Downtown’s bazaars and street vendors. There’s a reason many Cairenes refer to the city simply as Masr, the Arabic name for all of Egypt itself: this is the beating heart of the nation, embodying a plethora of religions, diasporas, and languages. Consequently, the city of 10 million people can feel staggering if you don’t know where to begin, especially if you don’t divvy up your time wisely. The 4,600-year-old pyramids of Giza, for example, can take hours to reach in rush-hour traffic, but are certainly not to be missed – and neither are Downtown’s modern galleries, cafes, and museums.
Curator Nadine Abdel Ghaffar in front of the Forever Is Now contemporary exhibit at Giza’s pyramids
Perhaps no one knows this better than Nadine Abdel Ghaffar, a French-Egyptian art director who curates exhibits in Cairo and lives in Giza. As the creator of Culturvator / Art’D Egypte, a women-led arts organization, Abdel Ghaffar regularly organizes exhibitions of contemporary art at heritage sites – including Forever Is Now, an annual art show at the Giza Necropolis, and a notable Dior fashion show at the pyramids that took place in December 2022.
“I’m very much into history, and it’s an incredible energy [at the pyramids],” Abdel Ghaffar says of the third edition of the Giza exhibition, which took place this fall. “So you really need to take your time over it.” She advises doing a proper tour of the pyramids, but also experiencing Giza beyond the heritage site before moving on to downtown Cairo. Here’s how to do Giza justice beyond the pyramids – and the spots in Cairo that Abdel Ghaffar visits time and again.
Start with an Overnight in Giza: Breakfast, Golf, and Shopping
The palace rooms at the Mena House Hotel, which overlooks the pyramids, are being renovated this year.
While many travelers make a quick day trip to the pyramids, Giza is a destination in itself if you know where to eat and stay. Any overnight in Giza should be spent sleeping beneath the pyramids, which is possible at the historic Mena House Hotel, a legendary stay that dates back to the 1860s and has been recently restored. The gold-gilded lobby and spectacular balconies overlooking the pyramids are just a stone’s throw away from the Necropolis, allowing you to easily pass a half or whole day exploring the area. The adjacent Sheikh Zayed City is a modern hub with lots of green spaces, dining, and activities to enjoy.
Once you’re checked in, Abdel Ghaffar advises starting with a meal at Andrea, which has been a family-dining institution for three decades: “You can’t go wrong; it’s very typical Egyptian food and good value for [your] money,” she notes. Her breakfast recommendation includes feteer, a flaky pastry topped with honey and nuts. For lunch or dinner, traditional grilled quail is a must-try, alongside crowd-pleasers like mezze and grape leaves (mahshy) for sharing.
Also near the pyramids is Khufu’s restaurant, where visitors can experience traditional recipes with a modern twist. “The owner worked on ancient Egyptian recipes, but with a contemporary touch,” Abdel Ghaffar explains. “It’s a beautiful location, just a few meters away from the pyramids.”
For activities beyond trekking around the pyramids, Sheikh Zayed City also offers the Alegria Golf Course, a world-class golfing complex. For a closer option, there’s a golf course at Mena House, allowing you to play at the foot of the pyramids.
Within Sheikh Zayed City, the Park Street shopping area features a mall with cafes and dining, where Abdel Ghaffar recommends visiting boutiques and upscale dining locations, especially at dinner time.
The Queens’ Pyramids – three smaller tombs nestled behind the main pyramids – are best viewed from a local-guided camel ride around the complex.
Truly Experience the Pyramids – All of Them
Once you’re fueled and settled in Giza, Abdel Ghaffar recommends spending a whole day at the Giza Necropolis and venturing out to another pyramid complex in the area, Saqqara.
One cannot overlook the three main pyramids of Giza. It is advisable to spend enough time with them on a guided tour: venturing inside the structures and the Valley Temple to feel the energy of these historic spaces. Moreover, new ways to experience the complex are emerging; for example, skydiving is becoming increasingly popular. However, Abdel Ghaffar’s favorite way to see the pyramids, temples, and giant sphinx is through the traditional camel rides offered by local guides on-site. Soon, electric buses will be introduced for easier access to the sites.
“People often overlook the Valley Temple, which I find interesting because it’s essential to see the entire procession,” she explains. Furthermore, she notes that even the smallest pyramid is the most intact and should not be neglected.
You could spend a whole day at Giza trekking (or camel riding) between the ancient structures while enjoying coffee and lunch with a view. However, the area’s historic tombs date back even earlier in Saqqara, the nearby step pyramid complex, revered for its well-preserved colorful hieroglyphics. Ongoing excavations continue to uncover some of the oldest antiquities in the world.
Zamalek, an island neighborhood on the Nile River, is known for its modern art galleries.
Experience Downtown Cairo for Art – and “the Real Egypt”
Of course, no trip to Cairo would be complete without immersing oneself in the city’s vibrant art scene, where Culturvator / Art D’Egypte regularly holds arts festivals and artist takeovers. An upcoming show will take place at the renovated Cairo Citadel, highlighting its 800-year history as the seat of Egyptian rulers through contemporary art and design from over 100 artists. Past exhibitions have displayed pieces by heritage artists inside spaces that blend historical significance with modern artistic expression.
“Downtown Cairo, once known as Paris by the Nile, hosts most of our exhibitions,” Abdel Ghaffar explains. One of her favorite spots is Cinema Radio, an iconic Art Deco movie house that has transformed into a shopping center with art pop-ups in addition to its storied movie theatre.
Cinema Radio in downtown Cairo is a charming blend of shopping and art.
Koshary at Abu Tarek, located conveniently near the Cairo Museum.
To refuel between historic sites, cafes, and galleries, Abdel Ghaffar recommends trying koshary – a hearty vegetarian dish made of lentils, pasta, tomato sauce, and fried onions – at famed Abu Tarek. “It’s really filling, inexpensive, and fresh, with friendly service; it’s a true taste of Egypt.”
